TULUM, MEXICO

Welcome to Mexico, a country known for its rich history, culture, and traditions, where the never-ending fun and dizzying flavors await. In this first post of my 5-day journey to Tulum and Mexico City, I’ll take you to the world-famous vacation town of Tulum.

The United Mexican States, a federal republic located in the southern half of North America, boasts numerous archaeological sites and ancient ruins, displayed in captivating museums. This characteristic has crowned Mexico as the top country in the Americas and seventh globally in UNESCO’s World Heritage-listed regions. Another feature is being one of the countries with the highest biodiversity globally, hosting 2,500 protected species of flora and fauna across its vast geographical range, from rainforests to deserts. Bordered by the United States to the north, the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, Guatemala, Belize, and the Caribbean Sea to the southeast, and the Gulf of Mexico to the east, Mexico’s 2 million km2 area showcases remarkable geographic diversity. Mexico is situated tectonically within the Pacific Ring of Fire, with many active volcanoes in the region.

Mexico experiences a tropical climate, with an average temperature of 30°C. The country witnesses both rainy and dry seasons, with the rainy season occurring from May to September, the transitional months being October-November and March-April, and the most favored tourist period being December to February. It’s advisable to check for hurricanes during the September-October hurricane season.

While Spanish is the predominant language, with around 60 local languages spoken, there is no official language. Explaining the colors of the Mexican flag: green symbolizes hope and victory, white represents the purity of their ideals, and red signifies the blood of the national heroes who sacrificed their lives. The flag’s central emblem features an eagle perched on a cactus, holding a snake in its beak, originating from an ancient Aztec legend.

The foundations of Mexican culture lie in the ancient civilizations of the Olmecs, Aztecs, and Mayans, among the world’s oldest civilizations. In the 12th century BCE, the Olmecs settled in two different regions. Teotihuacan, the largest pre-Columbian city, thrived near Mexico City from 100 BCE to 700 CE, exerting control over southern Mexico for years with a population of 200,000. The Mayans, considered the most brilliant civilization of the pre-Columbian era, ruled the region between 250 and 900 CE. Known for their elaborate cities and the development of a calendar and writing system, the Mayan civilization declined due to increasing population and ecological imbalance. From the 10th century onwards, the Toltecs influenced Mexican cultural life, known for human sacrifices for their gods and mass killings, as evidenced in the Maya settlement of Chichen Itza.

The Aztecs emerged in 1427, dominating the region for many years with their impressive administrative organization. In 1519, Spanish conquistador Cortés set foot on Mexican Land, marking the beginning of Spanish rule. According to Maya beliefs, the people, perceiving the presence of gods from the heavens or seas, initially mistook the Spanish, arriving from the sea in armored attire, as gods and surrendered without resistance. When they realized the truth, the Spaniards had reached the country’s interior, occupying the capital. The Spanish colony established in Mexico exterminated approximately 24 million people within 80 years. With the arrival of missionaries, the country largely adopted Catholicism. In recent history, they fought for independence against both the Spanish and the Americans. However, during this struggle, the people faced oppressive Mexican rulers and unjust income distribution. The revolution initiated by the people in 1910 concluded with Lázaro Cárdenas assuming power in 1934. Despite these changes, persistent income inequality led to the birth of the Zapatista National Liberation Army in 1994. The country continues to grapple with economic challenges, issues related to a growing population, and problems associated with drug trafficking.

DAY 1-TULUM

Turkish Airlines operates direct flights to both Cancún and Mexico City in Mexico. The journey takes approximately 15 hours. If you hold a standart Turkish citizen pasaport, you are required to apply for an electronic visa before traveling. Special passport holders, on the other hand, do not need a visa; however, they need to personally apply to the consulate for more complex requirements. If your passport has a valid visa for the United States, Canada, or the Schengen area, you do not need any additional visa or procedures. The airport staff is friendly and relaxed, making it easy to pass through the counters without any issues.

Upon exiting the airport, we were greeted by intense heat and humidity. Coming from the icy cold of New York to the 30°C heat of Cancún, we tried to adapt while settling into our pre-arranged car. The journey to Tulum took 1 hour and 45 minutes, and the roads were wide and comfortable with no traffic issues. Cancún is known for mass tourism, featuring large hotels and a lively atmosphere. Along the way, one hotel entrance ends, and another begins, but the surroundings are quite green, so the large hotel buildings don’t stand out. By the way, the hotels have completed their New Year’s preparations, and they have placed Santa Clauses and penguins at the hotel entrances. However, in my mind, these figures are usually associated with snow and winter, so seeing Santa Clauses and penguins placed under palm trees in temperatures exceeding 30°C made me smile.

Although Cancún is the first destination that comes to mind when thinking about Mexico and vacations, our goal was Tulum, a boutique town that has preserved its ethnic characteristics. Located on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, Tulum is within the coastal strip known as the Riviera Maya, stretching from Cancún to the southern border of Mexico, in the Quintana Roo region. Geographically, Mexico covers multiple time zones, but due to issues arising from this, the country observes a single time zone. However, this region follows a different time zone, so don’t forget to set your clock forward. This area has many features that can delight a traveler: fantastic beaches, a magnificent sea, various options for diving enthusiasts, the pleasure of swimming in natural pools called cenotes, archaeological findings, and, of course, delicious Mexican cuisine.

The natural atmosphere of the town immediately surrounds you. Construction activities have gained momentum as they have just come out of the rainy season. Hopefully, they won’t make the mistake of urbanization that we did in Bodrum, and they’ll avoid excessive development. It’s so beautiful and untouched. Our hotel, Delek Tulum, impresses us immediately with its thatched-roof bungalows and natural vegetation. One of its features is its eco-friendly nature. They do not produce plastic waste, there are glass water dispensers in the rooms, and you fill your water in a glass. Moreover, the bathroom products, including soap, shampoo, and even after-sun cream, are environmentally friendly. The decoration of the room is something to be experienced; I’ll keep silent, and let the photos speak.

After changing our clothes, we quickly headed to the beach. The sand is pure white powder, and even as someone who has swum on various beaches from Hawaii to Madagascar, it managed to make it to my list of the best—it’s that impressive. If you ask about the sea in Tulum, I’d say it’s fantastic. I particularly love wavy seas, and here, there are quite large waves. The seabed is soft, just like the sand on the beach, with no rocks or seaweed. In some areas, kite surfing is also practiced.

My daughter and I walked along the beach to have lunch at La Popular, the restaurant of Nomade Tulum Hotel, where we had a reservation. With a gentle breeze from the sea and a lively atmosphere, accompanied by fantastic flavors, we thought, “Thank goodness we’re in Tulum.” In 2021 I also experienced Nomade Tulum Hotel for accommodation and it was a magnificent experience.

The building right next to Nomade Tulum Hotel used to be Pablo Escobar’s summer residence. Nowadays, it is also used as a hotel.

After dinner, we walked back to our hotel along the road with shops on both sides. These are not just souvenir shops but also design stores selling clothing, hats, and jewelry. They are quite charming places.

Then, some relaxation and a wonderful dinner. We are excited about the next day; we have an interesting tour planned.

DAY 2-CHICHEN ITZA

Today’s schedule included both Chichen Itza and cenote swimming. When planning the tour, we decided to wake up a bit earlier to enjoy the sunrise before the Boutique Tours Mexico team picks us up from our hotel at 7:00. Being on the east coast, Tulum offered an unmatched blend of its unique visuals, providing us with an unforgettable panorama. If I had a little more talent, I might have become a poet or a composer…

Chichen Itza is located between Valladolid and Merida. Our guide Omar’s witty personality and fantastic energy make the journey seem shorter. Although the distance between Tulum and Chichen Itza is approximately 2 hours, we arrived at the opening time, 8:00, by adjusting for the time difference. The goal is to explore the site before it gets too crowded and the weather gets too hot. Our guide Fernando welcomed us at the entrance and conducted a fast, efficient, and comprehensive tour. Chichen Itza, in the Mexican language, translates to “At the mouth of the well of the magicians of water.” Named so because it is close to two cenotes, it is the second most visited archaeological site in Mexico. The Kukulkan Pyramid, also known as El Castillo or the castle, is considered one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, chosen on July 7, 2007 (others include the Great Wall of China, Petra, the Christ the Redeemer statue in Brazil, Machu Picchu, the Roman Colosseum, and the Taj Mahal). In the thousand-year history of Chichen Itza, traces of various civilizations, including the Mayans and the Toltecs, can be found. The Maya civilization, which ruled in the south of Central America between AD 250 and 900, surprises historians with its advanced civilization and unique educational system. They had advanced knowledge in astronomy, mathematics, and architecture and possessed the first written language in Native America. The Maya developed their calendar by combining mathematics and astronomy, and Chichen Itza stands as the pinnacle where they merged architecture and mathematics. Founded around AD 415 or 455, Chichen Itza reflects both Maya influence from the 6th to the 10th century and Toltec influence until the 15th century. In short, it’s a cultural fusion. The decline of the Maya civilization is attributed to factors such as overpopulation, diseases, political turmoil, and natural disasters. While the southern part of the empire disappeared for these reasons, the northern part was destroyed by the Spanish invasion. Excavations at Chichen Itza began in 1842. The durability of the structures in a region with intense tectonic activity is attributed to the technical excellence of Maya architecture. The number of visitors to the site can reach 8,000 per day.

Our first stop in the area was the ball court. The game played was called ‘tlachtli’ or ‘pok-ta-pok’ in the Maya language. I don’t know if J.K. Rowling was inspired by this when writing the famous sport ‘quidditch’ in the Harry Potter series, but it seems quite similar. The game is played with teams of seven players each, using wooden sticks to hit a ball and trying to pass the ball through rings located at the two ends of the 166x68m rectangular field. The most interesting feature is that when you clap your hands near the long sides, it echoes seven times. Both long sides are constructed inwardly, with large stones in the middle on one side, gradually decreasing in size toward the edge, and the opposite on the other side. The stone carvings on the walls depict winners beheading members of the opposing team. This likely represents the Toltecs, known for human sacrifices. However, I would like to add that I am pleased with the current perception of sports as associated with sportsmanship, unity, and ethical competition within moral boundaries.

The most important structure is the Temple of Kukulkan. According to Maya beliefs, there are cycles of 52 years, so three temples were constructed on top of each other. Under the currently visible temple, there is another temple that can be observed from the holes on the sides, and inside, there is yet another temple graphically represented. Kukulkan, the third tallest pyramid in the world, has 91 steps on each face, and with a total of 364 steps on all four faces. Adding the top step, it makes 365. They designed the pyramid in such a way that during the spring and fall equinoxes, the sunlight, thanks to the protrusions of the pyramid, creates a serpent-shaped shadow extension on the carved head of a serpent located at the beginning of the stairs. This serpent is the divine feathered serpent known as Kukulkan, which gives its name to the temple. I have attached a photo illustrating this phenomenon below. Another interesting feature is that if you stand directly in front and clap your hands, you can hear the song of the sacred bird from the top. I also recommend listening carefully to the video I attached for this.

Among the structures that have survived to the present day, there are the Temple of the Warriors, the round observatory El Caracol, the Grand Plaza in the northwest, the Skull Wall, the Temple of the Jaguars, the House of Eagles, the Temple of the Warriors in the northeast, the Thousand Columns Group, the Market, and the Ceremony Aarea. Additionally, there is the High Priest’s Grave in the southwest.

For those traveling by car, there is parking available. Inside, there are many roadside stalls selling souvenirs.

About 1-1.5 hours can be spent at Chichen Itza. Afterwards, we were ready for the most exciting part of the day, which was swimming in the cenote. The cenotes, which give Chichen Itza its name, are the most important geographical formations of this region in Mexico. Cenotes are natural swimming pools formed by rainwater seeping into and eroding limestone rocks, eventually collapsing to create water-filled caves. There are about 4000 cenotes on the Yucatan Peninsula. The most popular one is the Grand Cenote, but it can be quite touristy and crowded. While going to Chichen Itza, we noticed the traffic, and when we examined the visuals, the most impressive cenote was the Suytun with its platform extending into the water. When we arrived, seeing numerous tourist buses in the parking lot was a bit of a disappointment. We even hesitated to enter, but we were glad we did because there was a fascinating reenactment of a Maya ceremony for the show. In this cenote, swimming is allowed only with a life jacket. Due to the crowds inside, swimming wouldn’t have been enjoyable, but the ceremony was very interesting

While we were disappointed due to not being able to swim in the cenote, our guide Omar immediately stepped in and suggested taking us to the Multun Ha Cenote, his family’s favorite, which tourists rarely know about. It was probably one of the most interesting experiences of my life. First, you take a shower to cleanse yourself of chemicals, then you descend three levels down a spiral staircase. There, a blue-green fantasy world awaits travelers, with crystal-clear water where you can see rocks at the bottom and tiny black fish. Excitedly descending the steps of the wooden platform, we surrendered ourselves to the cool embrace of the water. There was no one else in the cenote but us. We swam, dived—it’s an experience to be enjoyed since it happens once in a lifetime. A little note: the iPhone 11 takes excellent shots underwater. As for the water temperature, it remains around 24°C throughout the year.

Our next stop was Valladolid, a tiny city with a population of 50,000. The majority of the people here are of Maya origin. In fact, our guide Omar met his wife here, who is also of Maya origin. Omar even spoke to us in the Maya language and shared that his daughter has a separate name in Maya. The city has a dominant colonial architectural style, with low-rise, colorful buildings. It reminded me of the colorful town of Trinidad during my trip to Cuba. The city got its name from the then capital of Spain, Valladolid, during the Spanish invasion. Initially, the Spaniards established the city next to a lagoon, but due to humidity and mosquitoes, they moved it to its current location in 1545. The current location had an ancient Maya city called Zaci or Zaci-Val, and the Spaniards used stones from the structures of this ancient city in the construction of their buildings. You can still see these stones in the walls of the buildings. The Maya people tried hard to reclaim the city from the Spaniards but were unsuccessful. The most important structure in the city is the Cathedral of San Servacio o Gervasio located in the center.

For an artistic touch in Tulum, you must visit Sfer Ik, located within the Hotel Azulik. This interdisciplinary creative museum blends works of significant visual artists in the fields of architecture and modern art. The architecture of the museum is truly awe-inspiring.

FOOD and DRINK

For an extreme fondness for Mexican cuisine, I must express that it was one of the most significant reasons for this trip. Mexico is the homeland of various plants, including cocoa, avocado, peanuts, tomatoes, corn, vanilla, and chili. Among the main dishes of Mexican cuisine are guacamole (avocado sauce) with salsa and nachos (corn chips to eat them with), burrito (closed wrap made with tortilla), quesadilla (open wrap filled with various ingredients), and tacos (tortilla wraps filled with diverse ingredients). Adding spice to dishes with hot sauce (chili) is also a must. Baked wraps covered in hot sauce (enchilada), traditional tamales cooked with corn or banana leaves, seafood like octopus (pulpo), spicy crab soup (chipachole), and raw fish marinated with lemon or lime (ceviche) are among the well-known dishes. Sweet bread, chocolate, caramelized milk (dulce de leche, leche quemada) are popular desserts.

Now, let’s not forget about beverages; buckle up, you’re in the homeland of tequila. Tequila is a distilled beverage made from the blue agave plant, which is exclusive to the Jalisco region of Mexico. This plant is grown only in the Jalisco state, and beverages made outside this state can’t be called tequila. After baking the heart of this plant in an oven for three days, they distill tequila from the extracted essences. There are two types of tequila in Mexico, blanco (white) and añejo (yellow). Blancos are aged for six weeks in barrels. Those aged for a longer period are añejos, which are more expensive and have a yellow color. While blanco tequila is consumed with salt and lime, añejo tequila is enjoyed with cinnamon and orange. Mezcal, another traditional flavor with a smoky taste, is similar to tequila in terms of consumption. The essential cocktail is, of course, Margarita. Regarding my dining and drinking recommendations

La Popular-Set under palm trees, this place is built on the sands. My favorite trio of Mexican cuisine: guacamole, ceviche, and tacos. Prices range from 180 to 350 pesos (divide by 20 to get the equivalent in dollars). In Mexico, prices are reasonable, and flavors are top-notch.

Casa Jaguar-Illuminated with candles, this place is extremely captivating. The salad made from fresh local herbs, along with grilled octopus, becomes the stars of the night. Starters are around 200 pesos, and main courses range from 400 to 500 pesos.

Raw Love Cafe-Ideal for a lunch snack, their motto is raw and healthy eating, especially their bowls are very delicious.

Todos Santos-They create personalized drink mixes and cocktails. You tell them the flavor you want, and they design a unique drink just for you. It’s quite fun.

Arca-I have a tradition of choosing a favorite activity and the best restaurant on each of my trips. While cenote swimming was the favorite activity of my Mexico trip, Arca was by far the best restaurant. The chef, who had previously worked at the famous Noma, left and returned to his Mexican roots, designing a micro-seasonal menu that represents the local flora and fauna. The flavors you’ll experience are unparalleled and incomparable. The presentations are beyond description; they must be experienced. My daughter and I shared and tried 5 different dishes. OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD. Definitely, do not go without a reservation.

For those who have the time to embark on a longer Mexico trip, here is brief information about other places worth visiting:

Mahahuhal: A beach town similar to Tulum

Merida: The capital of the Yucatan State and a great place for street photography. It is said to offer a genuine Mexican experience. The city, formerly known as T’ho during the Maya period, still has 60% of its population with Maya origins. Resembling a historical European city, Merida is shaped by French, English, and Dutch architecture from the colonial era. While places like Paseo del Adelantado Montejo, Merida Cathedral, Hidalgo Square, Government House, and Peon Theater are must-visit locations, Merida, with its one-story houses and narrow stone streets, is the starting point of the Puuc Route, which includes several important Maya ancient cities. Additionally, for a refreshing experience, the beaches in the Progreso area are only 40 minutes away, as the city is approximately 35 km from the Gulf of Mexico. The distance to Tulum is 6 hours.

Las Coloradas ve Isla Holbox: The famous pink lake Las Coloradas and Holbox Island offer a unique experience. Las Coloradas appears pink due to the plankton, red algae, and salt shrimp in its waters. It hosts flamingos, sea turtles, and various seabirds. The flamingos turn pink because they consume pink shrimps! Holbox Island, on the other hand, is a tropical island famous for its pristine white sandy beaches.

San Cristóbal: One of the most beautiful colonial cities in Mexico, San Cristóbal is located in the Jovel Valley. It is renowned for its cobblestone streets, churches, small squares, red-tiled houses, and flower-filled gardens. The city is known for the cute VW Beetles roaming the streets, with women and children from nearby villages selling adorable handmade colorful wool animal figures and woven bracelets all day long. Key places to visit include San Cristóbal Cathedral, Santa Domingo Church and Monastery, La Caridad Church, San Nicholas and San Francisco Churches, La Casa de la Sirena, and El Palacio Municipal.

Cancún: The most important tourism center in Mexico, located in the Maya Riviera, Cancún is famous for its numerous white sandy beaches, palm groves, and coral reefs on both Cancún Island and the coast of Cancún City. Cancun is home to the world-famous Museo Subacuatico de Arte (MUSA), an underwater museum featuring 400 works by British sculptor Jason de Caires Taylor. Isla Mujeres Beach with sculptures of the Mayan fertility goddess Ixchel, the popular Fenix Lounge on North Beach, and Avenida Hidalgo, a traffic-free street in the heart of Cancun, are highlighted as must-visit places in Cancun.

Uxmal: Uxmal, one of the pre-Columbian cities of the Maya civilization, is located 78 km south of Mérida. The name Uxmal, meaning “three times” in the Yukateco language, is situated in the Yucatan State. The region, recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, was established between the 5th and 6th centuries. Uxmal’s architecture carries the characteristic features of the cities in the Puuc mountain range, with simple lower sections and decorated upper sections on the facades of its structures. Key places to visit in Uxmal include the Governor’s Palace, also known as the Magician’s Temple, the Pyramid of the Magician, the Great Pyramid with a height of 35 m and a width of 53.5 m, the Quadrangle of the Nuns, and the House of Turtles dedicated to the god of thunder and rain, Chaac. The god masks adorning the temples and outer walls of palaces in Yucatan, depicting the rain god Chaac, are known as a significant characteristic of the Puuc style.

Oaxaca: Oaxaca is both a state and the capital city in southern Mexico. It is one of the country’s most important tourism centers with its mountains, forests, valleys, archaeological sites, colonial architecture, and centuries-old traditions and folklore. Oaxaca has three distinct cultural features: the historical center founded by the Spaniards in 1529, the Monte Albán Archaeological Site located 4 km southwest of the town, and the village of Cuilapan, captured by the Dominicans in the 16th century to establish a large monastery 12 km away. Monte Albán, declared a cultural heritage by UNESCO in 1987, is today a modern city with 1200 historical monuments, including the historic center of Oaxaca, the Constitution Square, also known as Zócalo, and the Cathedral Towers completed after nearly two centuries of construction. Religious structures such as Santo Domingo, San Francisco, San Agustin, San Filipo Neri, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, cultural institutions like Teatro Macedonio Alcalá, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, and houses of aristocrats from the 19th century contribute to the city’s architectural quality.

Guadalajara: Guadalajara, the second-largest city in Mexico after Mexico City, is located in the southeast of the Jalisco State. Remarkably calm, peaceful, and intimate, Guadalajara is also known as Mexico’s Silicon Valley due to its advanced technology industry. Colonial architecture can be observed prominently in the buildings in the city center. Streets like Lopez Cotilla and Colonias Americana, which are closed to vehicle traffic on weekends and offered to cyclists, the interesting and touristic area of Tlequepaque, Chapala Lake where Americans spend their summer vacations, and Plaza Armas Square, a major meeting point in the city, are must-see places. Avenida Juarez, where shopping is vibrant and cafes are lined up, is another essential spot. The city stands out with its magnificent squares, adorned with fountains, parks, the 16th-century Cathedral, city hall, university, and the theater building with colossal columns, as well as boutiques, art galleries, and cafes.

Puebla: Known as the City of Angels, Puebla is a Mexican city located 344 km from Oaxaca and 136 km from the capital, Mexico City. Puebla, listed on the World Heritage List, has approximately 5000 colonial structures built in the baroque architectural style of the 16th century. Besides its impressive architecture, the city is known for its delicious cuisine influenced by Arab and Spanish flavors. Noteworthy features of the historical houses in Puebla include ceramic-covered exteriors. Buildings like the House of Dolls with human figures on its walls, the City Hall illuminated by burning lights, the white bell tower of the Church of Jesus, and the Cathedral reflect the city’s architecture beautifully. Puebla also offers exquisite craftsmanship such as Talavera pottery, paintings on paper made from tree bark, and sculptures made of onyx and marble.

Campeche: Campeche, a coastal city in southeastern Mexico, is surrounded by Yucatan to the northeast, Quintana Roo to the east, Belize to the southeast, Guatemala to the south, and Tabasco to the southwest. Being the most important port of the Yucatan Peninsula, the Spanish colonizers built famous forts and walls to protect themselves due to pirate attacks on ships carrying rich goods departing from the port. Many architectural works built during the Spanish period now serve as museums. Key places to visit in Campeche include Puerta del Mar, Puuc, the Pyramid of the Magician, Kukulkan, and the Governor’s Palace.