PORTO RICO

Goncagül Haklar, November 2022

Porto Rico is a paradise where everyone can draw a route according to their hearts. It offers magnificent beaches to enthusiasts of the sea-sun-sand trio, and captures the hearts of travelers with its old town center adorned with colorful houses, promising the experience of rainforests and the fun of swimming in waterfalls, along with its magnificent flavors.

As one of the Caribbean Islands, Porto Rico is a tropical paradise where Afro-Caribbean, Spanish, American, and local Taino cultures blend in a melting pot. Its capital and also its largest city, San Juan, is a vibrant city that brings together the Atlantic Ocean with greenery. The Old San Juan, or locally known as Viejo San Juan, is the historic Spanish architecture area with colorful houses, cobblestone streets, interesting shops, and breathtaking views, making it a favorite for all travelers.

Porto Rico promises travelers very different experiences. For example, you must visit the El Yunque Tropical Rainforest. Porto Rico is also famous for its bioluminescent bay experiences, which brightly glow in the dark at night. There are three bays on the island with this feature, two of which are on the main island, but the most famous one, listed in the Guinness World Records since 2006, is on Vieques Island, just off the east coast. Microorganisms responding to movements in the water by glowing offer a magical experience in the darkness of the night. As the island is not very large, it’s possible to experience different adventures with day trips, but it’s essential to have a central accommodation.

Porto Rico, officially known as the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, is the smallest island in the Greater Antilles, consisting of small islands such as Vieques, Culebra, and Mona, in addition to the main island. Mona Island, or also known as Monkey Island, is not a place where people reside continuously. The island, consisting of dense forests and rugged cliffs, got its name because it hosts about a thousand red-cheeked monkeys. It is mainly visited by nature conservation workers and nature enthusiasts who obtain special permits. To the west of Porto Rico is the Dominican Republic, and to the east are the Virgin Islands. The population of the country was approximately 3.3 million according to the 2020 census. While the capital, San Juan, has a population of 430,000, it rises to 1.5 million with surrounding settlements, making it the most populous city in the Caribbean.

San Juan port is a stopover for Caribbean cruise ships.

The Old Town area’s port is also home to some interesting sculptures.

Archaeological findings indicate that life on the island began 4000 years ago. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493, the first Spanish settlement on the island was established in 1508. Due to the protected and rich harbor of the archipelago, it took its current name in Spanish, meaning rich port, in 1521. When Europeans arrived on the island, the native population (Taino Indians) of about 30,000 decreased significantly due to European diseases, slavery, and harsh working conditions. The people of the island lived under Spanish rule for 400 years, but in the second half of the 19th century, they began the struggle for independence. The country, which passed to American administration with the 1898 Paris Treaty and gained its own identity in 1952, was removed from colonialism by the United Nations, making it an autonomous region with internal independence but dependent on the US for external affairs. Porto Rico is economically and militarily dependent on the United States. Although the people are American citizens, they cannot vote in presidential elections.

In Puerto Rico, more than 80% of the population is Catholic. Others follow different religions, and there are also those with no religious beliefs. Freedom of belief is constitutionally guaranteed. They value the concept of family highly, and generally, 2 or 3 generations live together. Sending elderly family members to nursing homes is not approved. Puerto Rican women rarely take their husband’s surname. Children are usually given a double surname from both the father and mother.

With a tropical climate, the island is hot, humid, and rainy throughout the year. From May to October, it is more rainy, while the climate is milder and drier between December and March. August and September are known as hurricane season.

The main languages spoken in the country are Spanish and English. The unique territory is reflected not only in the language that fluctuates between Spanish and English but also in the use of both European and American units of measurement.

The country has multiple airports, with the international airport being Luis Munoz. It’s crucial to remember that a valid U.S. visa is required to enter Porto Rico.

Founded in 1521, San Juan is known as the second oldest capital established by Europeans in the Americas. The city boasts three significant historical forts: El Morro (Castillo San Felipe del Morro), San Cristobal (Castillo San Cristóbal), and El Cañuelo (Fortín San Juan de la Cruz) on the opposite shore of the bay. The Old San Juan district is filled with colorful houses reflecting 16th and 17th-century Spanish architecture. These houses are so vivid in color – yellows, reds, blues, greens, purples – they shimmer like jewels in the sun. Every corner of the city showcases this colorful architecture and street art. It’s worth noting that these houses are meticulously maintained. The main square of the city is Plaza de Armas. San Juan Bautista Cathedral is one of the oldest structures in the capital and the oldest cathedral in the United States and the second oldest in the Americas.

The construction of El Morro Castle, initiated in 1539 to protect the bay under the orders of King Charles V of Spain and dedicated to King Philip II, continued with various additions until 1790. The castle, which has been on the World Heritage List since 1983, was actively used in both world wars. El Morro, which evolved from a promontory where a single cannon was used to a six-story castle, offers the opportunity to see the flags waving in the Atlantic breeze and transport yourself to another time in history. Imagine former uniformed soldiers walking along the wide walls surrounding a vast and green plain, envisioning the historical moments within the broad and tall walls where cannons once comfortably fit.

The destructive impacts of English attacks in 1598 and Dutch attacks in 1625 prompted the Spaniards to enhance the security of San Juan, leading to the construction of San Cristóbal Castle.

The castle, named after the patron saint of black travelers, St. Christopher, and taking more than 150 years to complete, is considered the largest castle built in America. Known for its irregular and triangular towers, deep ditches, and mine tunnels, the castle played a highly effective role in protecting against land attacks.

Additionally, the castle was designed to collect and retain as much rainwater as possible, and its five cisterns underneath could hold approximately 3,300,000 liters of rainwater. These cisterns are now used for the maintenance of the park, providing an excellent example of how self-sufficient practices were learned centuries ago.

One of the most interesting features of the interior of San Cristóbal is the dungeon that displays original drawings from the late 18th century, believed to have been made by an unknown prisoner.

Between San Cristóbal Castle and El Morro Castle lies the La Perla neighborhood. It is known for being the filming location of the popular song “Despacito”. The area is quite poor, and the crime rate is high. It’s essential to note that it is a risky area in terms of safety. NBA player Carmelo Anthony, who has Puerto Rican roots, built a basketball court in La Perla.

The city’s modern and luxurious area with chain hotels is Condado. La Concha Beach (be cautious of strong currents), Playita del Condado (calmer and suitable for small travelers), Caribe Hilton, and Escambron Beaches are among the most popular choices in this area. It’s worth mentioning that all beaches in Puerto Rico are generally free. Beaches often feature loud music.

Isla Verde, particularly favored by locals for weekend beach enjoyment, is about a 10-15 minute drive from the city center and offers vast ocean views.

For those interested in diving, there are catamaran tours from Fajardo on the east side of the island that go to Culebra and Vieques Islands.

The Monster, a 2.5-kilometer-long zipline in Puerto Rico, rightfully earns its name as the longest zipline in the Americas and the second longest in the world. With speeds reaching 153 km/h, it’s an activity tailored for adrenaline enthusiasts.

Toro Verde Adventure Park is located in the town of Orocovis, approximately an hour and 45 minutes away from San Juan, nestled in the rugged peaks of the Central Mountain Range of Puerto Rico, covered with dense forests. We went there by renting a car. The park offers a variety of activities suitable for all age groups. Before tackling The Monster, I opted for a warm-up tour consisting of 7 consecutive ziplines, each higher and longer than the previous one.

The city of Ponce, located in the south of the island, is home to the magnificent Castillo Serralles mansion. The mansion, once owned by a rum producer, can be explored as a museum. Adorned with flowers and hosting butterflies in its splendid gardens, it is also a popular wedding venue. On the west side of the island, there are the Rincon Beaches, particularly favored by surfers. In the northern part of the island, you can visit the Camuy Caves and the Arecibo Observatory. The Camuy Caves boast one of the world’s largest underground cave and river systems. The Arecibo telescope, situated between three peaks, was the world’s largest single-dish telescope from its inauguration in 1963 until 2016 when it was surpassed by the FAST telescope in China.

For those interested, a visit to the Bacardi Rum factory can be an intriguing experience. Although taking photos inside the factory is prohibited, it’s allowed outside. Guided introductory tours are available, and after exploring the section where you can taste different Bacardi Rums, there is an opportunity for shopping at the factory store.

The city comes alive, especially on weekends, with a vibrant nightlife. Puerto Ricans truly enjoy having fun and are happy people.

The island’s only rainforest, El Yunque, is located in the Luquillo Mountains, just 40 minutes from San Juan. This area offers a relatively pristine nature experience in the Caribbean. It’s a mesmerizing place where you can hike and even swim in hidden waterfalls. The forest is home to 200 different tree species, along with harmless inhabitants like frogs, butterflies, and birds. After our forest hike, we reached Las Tinajas Waterfall and the pool it cascades into. Following that, we climbed 15 more minutes up the mountain and made two rock jumps, one at thirteen meters and the other at seven meters.

Located on the eastern side of the main island and serving as a barrier island, Vieques is a corner of paradise with wild horses, a unique bioluminescent experience, and beautiful beaches. You can reach the island by plane or ferry, with ferries from the Ceiba Ferry Terminal taking about 30 minutes to reach the island.

It is estimated that the horse population on the island is more than 1,000. The first question that comes to visitors’ minds is whether the horses are wild or not. The local people prefer to say most of the horses are “freely roaming”. They don’t keep them confined to specific areas, but they know where to find them when needed. However, approximately 55% of Vieques is under the status of a “National Wildlife Refuge”, providing natural protection, and they add that there are also wild horses living in the depths of the forests.

The breed of the horses on Vieques is Paso Fino, which means “fine step” in Spanish. This breed, a mix of North African Berber, Spanish Jennet, and Andalusian horses brought by the Spanish explorers in the 16th century, was bred for use in the fields due to their durability and comfortable riding. Known for their fast-paced and uninterrupted rhythmic gaits, Paso Fino horses have a smooth and balanced walking style that provides minimal forward motion but minimizes the rider’s impact, known as the “rack” gait. Even newborn foals reportedly exhibit this distinctive gait from birth. These horses can perform such a smooth gait that riders in Vieques used to demonstrate their skills by placing a glass of water on their hats and riding without spilling a drop. Guided tours with these horses are also offered on the island.

Vieques Island served as a munitions depot and bombing range for the U.S. Navy from 1941 to 2003. For years, the local population lived with naval aircraft and warships conducting war games and military exercises in their backyards. The islanders’ reactions to this situation escalated over time, reaching a peak in 1999 with a fatal accident caused by a non-target bomb test. The U.S. Navy abandoned the island in 2003. Since then, the locals have sustained their livelihood through tourism, and the island’s horses have become part of its allure.

Mosquito Bay, located on the island, hosts the world’s highest concentration of bioluminescent organisms. When the tide rises, plankton from the ocean enters the bay, and when the tide recedes, they remain in the lagoon. Visitors explore the lagoon in canoes at night, and microorganisms respond to the movement in the water by emitting a glow, creating a magical experience. The water sparkles like it’s sprinkled with fairy dust in the dark, accompanied by stars in the sky, making you feel like you’re part of an enchanted tale. You can dip your hand into the water and move it slowly back and forth, triggering bioluminescence. It’s like tiny fireflies flying in the water with each movement of your hand. Since darkness is crucial for observing the microorganisms, planning your visit according to the moon’s phase is advisable, and avoiding a full moon is recommended. Be prepared to get wet inside the canoe.

Isabel II and Esperanza are two central locations on the island. Esperanza, being more touristy, serves as a hub for restaurants and tours. The intriguing Black Beach (Playa Negra) is recommended more for trekking and photography than for swimming. Red Beach (Caracas Beach), Green Beach, Playa Grande, and Balneario Sun Bay are the island’s most popular beaches.

During our stay, we lodged at the CasaBlanca Hotel in the Old San Juan district. On Vieques Island, we stayed at the Blue Horizon Boutique Hotel.

FOOD and DRINK

Santisimo became the favorite restaurant of our journey with its Caribbean cuisine featuring small snacks and seafood. The prices are quite reasonable.

Polo Norte is the most popular bar in the Old San Juan area. It is a must-visit place on the island, especially given its well-developed cocktail culture.