MOROCCO

Morocco, where white is associated with Casablanca, red with Marrakech, and blue with Chefchaouen, enchants travelers with its mysterious Arab culture. Morocco offers a geography where you can ascend from arid valleys to misty and rainy mountains within the same day, then descend to sun-baked deserts. The lively crowds dominating the streets and the noisy squares where the scent of mint mixes with the aroma of food are integral parts of the vibrant Moroccan culture. In the old city areas called Medina, time seems to have stood still. Exploring the world’s largest hot desert in the vast expanse of nine million square kilometers, spending a night under the stars, and witnessing the sunrise/sunset in the middle of the desert are extraordinary experiences. While wandering through the endless deserts of Morocco, you lose your sense of place and realize how small a space you occupy in our vast world.

Located in the northwest corner of the African continent, with only 13 km separating it from Europe, Morocco is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Mediterranean to the north. Its capital is Rabat, its largest city is Casablanca, and its cultural capital is Marrakech. Morocco, the only country in North Africa that the Ottoman Empire couldn’t conquer, gained independence from Arab invaders with the help of the Ottomans. The country is named after the Ottoman fezzes, as they were produced there.

In this region dominated by Arab culture, Islam is the predominant religion, and the people speak a form of Arabic called Darija. Due to many years of French colonization, the official languages are French and Arabic. Even education in schools is conducted in French. In addition to these two languages, people also speak English and Spanish. The Berbers are predominantly located in the South.

Morocco experiences three different climates: Mediterranean climate in the coastal areas, continental climate in the region with the Atlas Mountains, and desert climate in the inland and southern parts of the country. The summer season in Morocco is from June to August, autumn is from November to February, and spring is from early March to May. April and May are the most suitable months to visit the country as the weather is not too hot, and there is minimal chance of rain.

Turkish Airlines has reciprocal flights between Istanbul and Casablanca. Another alternative is Royal Air Maroc. The travel time is 5 hours for outbound flights and 4 hours and 25 minutes for return flights. Morocco does not require a visa for Turkish citizens. You only need to fill out a form before passport control, and your entry number is stamped on your passport during police control. The same form is filled out upon departure.

The first inhabitants of Morocco were the Berbers, referred to as Imazighen, who arrived around 8000 BCE from the southwest and central Asia. The country later fell under Roman rule until the 5th century. Following the division of the Roman Empire, Morocco experienced domination by the Visigoths, Byzantines, and Greeks. In the 7th century, Arabs began to exert influence. On March 30, 1912, Morocco became a French colony through the Treaty of Fes. The country gained independence in 1956, establishing the Kingdom of Morocco. It has been ruled by Sultan Mohammed V, then King Hassan II, and since 1999, King Mohammed VI. The French influence is still evident in the country.

DAY 1-CASABLANCA

Our journey began with the 19:55 flight of Royal Air Maroc. After arriving in Casablanca, it was already midnight when we checked into the hotel.

DAY 2- FROM CASABLANCA TO MARRAKECH

The city, formerly known as Anfa and renamed Casablanca since 1943, is the country’s prominent economic center. We started the day with a city tour and a short photo break.

The iconic structure of the city, made famous worldwide by the black and white film “Casablanca” starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, is the Hassan II Mosque, which holds the title of the world’s second-largest mosque. Designed by French stadium architects, the mosque’s roof can open and close. Completed in 1993 and located by the ocean, the mosque was truly impressive with its 200-meter-long minaret.

In Casablanca, other places to visit include Casablanca Cathedral, the Medina district, the Jewish Museum, and the Royal Palace. Afterward, we headed to Marrakech.

Marrakech, the former capital of Morocco, captivates with its pinkish-red buildings, narrow streets, and the Jemaa El Fna Square, is favorite among tourists. Its original name in Berber is mur (n) akush, meaning “Land of God.” As the entire city is within walking distance, you must surrender yourself to the chaos that is a way of life in Marrakech. There are 650 mosques throughout the city. The color of the city was chosen as a reddish pink to minimize the reflection of sunlight. We had our lunch at Palais Arabe Restaurant-Place Jamaa El Fnaa. In this venue adorned with ethnic decorative products specific to Morocco, we had our first encounter with tajine and became addicted to this Moroccan dish cooked in cone-covered clay bowls. The lemon and olive chicken tajine was truly delicious. They serve it with couscous, which resembles our fine bulgur. Couscous is generally a bit bland for our taste, but it would be better if seasoned, even cooked with a bit of onion and tomato. They always bring salad before the main course, usually consisting of greens, carrots, potatoes, beets, and cabbage, all served separately without mixing. Common appetizers include cumin lentils and eggplant puree. They use a lot of coriander in their dishes, which made me happy as I love Mexican cuisine. Morocco apparently meets all its vegetable and fruit needs within its own borders. The olives are magnificent, the oranges are fantastic, and the wines are delightful.

After the meal, a bit of a walk is a must. A tour of the colorful streets of the Medina district, meaning the city center in Arabic, led by our local guide Said, was good for all of us. There are markets (souks) in these streets. If you’re looking for a specific market, it’s useful to learn its French name beforehand. The word souk is followed by babouche (shoes), chouari (carpets), el-attarine (perfume and spices), and cherratine (leather) markets. The most well-known market is Souk Semmarine. Unfortunately, the people of Marrakech haven’t quite grasped the concept of tourism, and they are not aware of the only valid rule – “The tourist is sacred.” They can be extremely rude, showing extreme reactions to taking pictures, and approaching aggressively, asking for money. Therefore, calm down by counting to seven, enjoy your surroundings, and even if you don’t shop, there are many more beauties waiting for you in other cities.

At the entrance of Jemaa El Fna square stands the Koutoubia Mosque, boasting the title of Marrakech’s largest mosque, with its magnificent 70-meter minaret being quite famous. It was built by the Berber King Yakup Mansur between 1184 and 1199. “Koutoub” means books in Arabic, and it is said that the name comes from the nearby book market in those years. The Almohads, impressed by the beauty of the structure, later took inspiration from this mosque and built a similar one in the city of Seville in Spain, known as “La Giralda.” Like all mosques in Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.

Afterward, we spent some time at the famous Jemaa El Fna (Cema el Fena Square). The ‘Square of the Vanishing’ protected by UNESCO creates a feeling of being in a completely different world with snake charmers, food and drink stalls, henna artists, and various performances. The square is more crowded at night compared to the daytime; it becomes so crowded that it’s hard to move. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enjoy the square much due to a surprise rain shower.

DAY 3-MARRAKECH

The next day, we headed to the famous Jardin Majorelle (Majorelle Gardens). Located in the heart of Marrakech, these gardens, hidden among a myriad of plants, were created by French painter Jacques Majorelle over 40 years with a passion for collecting various plants from around the world on his own property. Jacques, the son of the orientalist painter and renowned Art Nouveau furniture designer Louis Majorelle, came to Marrakech in 1917 due to his asthma and decided to live there in 1923. The cobalt blue color frequently used in his house and gardens, designed in the Art Deco style, came to be known as ‘Majorelle Blue’ after him. After his death, the famous French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent bought the property and bequeathed to have his ashes scattered here upon his death. There is a section in the garden dedicated to the famous fashion designer. Additionally, there is a museum inside that portrays the lifestyle of the Berbers. It is recommended to visit in the morning to avoid waiting in line and to take photographs comfortably. Don’t forget to enjoy a refreshing drink at Cafe Bousafsaf, adorned with orange trees, within the Majorelle Gardens.

Gueliz, where the Majorelle Gardens are located, represents the modern face of Marrakech—a luxurious neighborhood where those tired of crowded markets and bargaining can take a break. “Avenue Mohammed V” gives the initial impression of being in Paris.

After having lunch at our hotel, we headed to the Medina of Marrakech. One of the 19 entrance gates to the historic city of Marrakech, Bab Agnaou, is the most magnificent and was built by the Almohad Dynasty in the 12^th century.

Right at the entrance, Herboristerie Bab Agnaou is a reliable address for those looking to buy argan oil and its derivatives. The argan plant is rich in vitamin E. In the past, it was roasted, and the oil extracted was used in salads. The famous cosmetic manufacturer ‘Clinique’ became interested in argan oil when they saw that the faces of the women working to extract the oil aged, while their hands remained youthful. After confirming its benefits for the skin, they incorporated it into their products.

Afterwards, we visited the ‘Saadian Tombs.’ Within the complex, there are two tombs, 66 graves, and a garden containing 100 graves. One of the tombs belongs to Sultan Ahmed al-Mansur of Morocco, and the area, which was used as a cemetery until the 18^th century, was closed off by Molla Ismail covering it with soil. The tomb was rediscovered in 1917 when it was photographed from the air.

Menara Gardens, situated in front of the Atlas Mountains, features a terracotta-colored pavilion and spans over 100 hectares, creating a picturesque atmosphere that adds a different charm to the city. The large pool was built for irrigating the gardens.

Afterwards, we are back on the enchanting streets of Marrakech. First, we explored the Jewish quarter and the old synagogue.

The last stop of the day is the Bahia Palace (Palais de la Bahia). The word “Bahia” means brilliance, and the palace was built in the 19^th century at the request of Vizier Ahmed Ibn Moussa. The palace, adorned with thousands of tiles from floor to ceiling, redefines the concept of brilliance, enchanting travelers with its mesmerizing beauty.

La Mamounia is the most famous hotel of Marrakech and Morocco. With a relatively high price range, you can enjoy tea in this 5-star hotel. Later, we returned to the square, but our attempt to explore the square once again ended in disappointment, that is, with rain. However, Marrakech gave us a magnificent rainbow as a gift.

For those with time, other places to visit:

Medersa Ben Youssef: Founded by Merenid Sultan Abou el Hassan in the 14^th century and rebuilt by the Saadians in the 1500s, this medrese is North Africa’s largest Islamic university. The medrese, hidden in the streets of Marrakech with high walls, has thousands of mosaic decorations consisting of woodwork and geometric shapes. The medrese has a large courtyard with a pool for ablution in the center. The large prayer area just behind the courtyard is adorned with delicate craftsmanship. There were 900 students receiving education in 132 dormitories. Some parts of the medrese resemble the Alhambra Palace in Granada. The medrese continued to provide education until 1960 but now serves as a museum. At the entrance, there is an inscription with a saying of Ali Ben Youssef: “Whoever enters through my door can exceed his hopes!”

Badi Palace (Palais el Badii): The largest historical structure in Marrakech, built by Saadian Sultan Ahmed el-Mansour in the 16^th century. When it was first built, it is estimated that there were 360 rooms in the palace. The orange gardens and pool in the courtyard of the palace, which are now in ruins, add a different atmosphere to the complex. Marble from Italy and gold from Sudan were imported for the construction of the palace. The tunnel used to imprison captives should be entered, and the part that is now a photo gallery and the rear part paved with mosaics should be explored.

In the evening, we went to watch the world-famous ‘Chez Ali’ show. There is a comprehensive complex with a museum, local activity areas, dining sections, and a show area. Our meal, enriched with traditional dances, was very enjoyable. Then we went to watch the show, but our enjoyment was spoiled when one of the horses got injured and did not get up from the ground for a long time. Fortunately, the horse got up, and we ended the night with a sigh of relief.

DAY 4-QUARZAZATE

Today we started heading south. In Morocco, the Atlas Mountains are divided into three sections: High, Middle, and Anti-Atlas. The winding mountain roads were accompanied by mist and rain. When we arrived in Quarzazate, a scorching sun and a completely different world awaited us. After having lunch at Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, we explored the Berber village of Ait Ben Haddou, located at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Berbers, also known as the Amazigh, consider themselves a distinct people with a unique character and history, predating the Arabs in the region. About 14 million Berbers live in Morocco, and in recent years, there has been an increased effort to preserve and redefine their national identity, especially in the western part of North Africa known as the “Moonlight” region. Berber culture is now part of the curriculum in schools in Morocco and Algeria, and there have been demonstrations in the early 2000s to achieve this right. Research indicates that the presence of the Berber community in the region dates back to prehistoric times, with traces found in cave rock art and Neolithic communal groups.

The Berbers have a fascinating art form. They create paintings on paper using saffron and green tea. Initially, nothing is visible. Then, they heat it over a flame, and as the colors burn, the painting emerges. They refer to this technique as ‘fire painting.’ In ancient times, they used this tactic to send hidden messages.

We continued our journey, leaving our hearts in ‘Ait Ben Haddou.’ There is still much more to explore. We visited the studios where films such as Tea in the Desert, Babel, Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia, as well as Asterix, Spy Game, The Physician, Cleopatra, Atlantis, Alexander, Prince of Persia, Game of Thrones, and others were shot.

When we arrived in the center of Quarzazat, our 4×4 vehicles were ready. An exciting experience awaited us, a night in the desert, perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The ‘Eco-lodge’ offers a creative venture where you can spend the night in Berber tents in the desert. The two-person tents have water and toilet facilities. Limited electricity usage is allowed during specific hours. Our dinner consisted of barley soup, chicken skewers, meat tajine, and fruit salad. Our night in the campsite, under the stars, became even more enjoyable with singing. By the way, there is no internet or phone access; you are disconnecting technologically.

DAY 5-FROM QUARZAZAT TO ERFOUD

I woke up with the sunrise, and the air was incredibly fresh and clean. The sun was rising behind the mountains in the distance, and you feel like a small part of infinity. All you can do is respect nature. After another delicious breakfast featuring olives, jams, and lavash, we passed through the Toudra Gorge, Dades Valley, the palm groves, and the famous Rose Valley with its rose fields. We reached the renowned town of Tinghir. This region is called the ‘1000 Kasbahs’ region because of the numerous kasbahs (fortified houses) in the area.

At the Inass Restaurant, we have experienced the most magnificent meal of the trip, a goat tajine. The restaurant is run by a female entrepreneur who started this business after losing her husband. The fact that the establishment is managed by women adds to its charm and was truly impressive.

Afterwards, the destination was ‘Merzouga.’ The distance between ‘Quarzazat’ and ‘Merzouga’ is 370 km. Upon arrival, we boarded 4×4 vehicles to reach the edge of the Sahara Desert. Camels awaited us here. In caravans, we traversed the sand dunes. My camel, named ‘Bob Marley,’ was very gentle and well-behaved. After dismounting from the camels at the accommodation point, we wandered amid the vast sand dunes, getting lost in the beauty of the Sahara Desert. The Sahara Desert covers an area equivalent to the United States or China in size. Feeling the sand beneath our bare feet and strolling among the successive sand dunes were essential experiences. We are in Morocco, and losing our sense of time and space here is quite natural. We enjoyed the surroundings until sunset. The Berbers describe the desert as a sea of sand, and here, just like at the sea, beautiful sunsets unfold. Later, we traveled 54 km to ‘Erfoud’ for accommodation. Our hotel, ‘Xaluca Maadid,’ was like a dream.

DAY 6-FROM ERFOUD TO FES

Early in the morning, we set out, following the Ziz Valley and canyons, making our way from the east to the northwest of the Atlas Mountains. Our lunch was in ‘Amersid,’ and our menu included trout. The next stops featured forests with protected giant cedar trees that can reach up to 500 years old and the presence of bread-eating dogs. The breed of the dogs is ‘aidi,’ which means dog in Berber.

Next, we have the Monkey Kingdom. The monkeys, accustomed to eating peanuts, are quite friendly. We gave one of them an orange, and it skillfully peeled and enjoyed it.

After leaving the valley, we felt like we had arrived in Switzerland. Lush green meadows and grazing cows created a pastoral scene.

Our late afternoon stop was in Meknes, famous for its wine. Winemaking has been carried out in Meknes since 1929, initiated by the French. The vineyards, if photographed and labeled as Tuscany, would be indistinguishable; such is the natural beauty of this region. The annual production is 70 million bottles. After exploring the medinas of Meknes and the Mansur Gate, one of the former capitals of the Sultanate of Morocco, we continued our journey towards Fes for dinner and overnight stay.

DAY 7-FES

The enchanting city of Fes, which has changed little from the Middle Ages to the present day, allows you to experience different time periods, ranging from the 9th century to the 17th century, all in one day. As always, in Morocco, lose yourself in time and space, and enjoy the magical world around you.

Situated in the valley between the Rif and Atlas Mountains, Fes, the second-largest city in Morocco, served as the capital until 1925. Due to its proximity to southern Spain, it bears a striking resemblance to the architectural style of the city of Cordoba. With its preserved ethnic character, vibrant atmosphere, and colorful surroundings, there are plenty of reasons to fall in love with this city.

In Fes, there are two ancient settlements. The larger one is the ‘Fez el Bali’ area. The old city area within the walls is called the Medina, and the area outside the walls is referred to as the new city (Ville Nouvelle), characterized by French colonial architecture. The Fez el Bali district was founded by Andalusian refugees in the year 790. The medina of Fes, the largest and oldest city of the Middle Ages, encompasses 9,000 streets, making it known as the world’s largest pedestrian area. Vehicle entry is prohibited in the area, with only donkeys allowed. The streets are so narrow that when donkeys or carts pass, their owners shout “Balek! Balek!” to clear the way. Some streets are so narrow that only one person can pass through with difficulty. With its cobblestone alleys, the old city area is like a complete labyrinth, and it has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1981. Our local guide, Omar, has been guiding in Fes for 30 years and speaks nine languages. Navigating the Medina without a guide is nearly impossible, even Google Maps would struggle!

The second ancient settlement is the Jewish quarter known as ‘Fez el Jdid’. The areas where Jews lived are referred to as mellahs. Jews settled in this area in the 14th century seeking refuge. Today, there are not many Jews in the old city area. The narrow streets continue, displaying the distinctive traces of Morocco, characterized by a sense of wear and tear.

We have visited several places with our guide Omar:

Bab Bou Jeloud: Adorned with three symmetric arches, this gate was constructed in 1913. It is the most famous gate providing entry to the old city. The inside is green, while the outside is blue. That’s why it’s known as Bab Boujloud, meaning the blue gate. Entering through this gate allows you to reach the two main streets of the Medina (Rue Talaa Seghira and Rue Talaa Kebira).

Medersa Bou Inania: This school, opened between 1351 and 1356, provided religious education. As soon as you step into the courtyard, the meticulously crafted wall decorations and the endless geometric patterns made of tiles on the lower part of the walls are quite striking. The most prominent feature of the madrasa visible from the outside is its tall tower adorned with green tiles.

Medersa el-Attarine: A structure dating back to the fourteenth century.

Kairaouine University and Mosque: This structure, Africa’s largest mosque and the world’s first university, was founded by Tunisians in 859, and it was expanded by the Almoravids in the 12th century. It is still active and can accommodate 20,000 people.

Chouara Tannery: When talking about Fes, it’s impossible not to think about the tannery. The city has three tanneries, and the largest and oldest is the Chouara Tannery. Here, hides are still dyed and processed using traditional methods by skilled craftsmen. As you enter the tannery, they distribute mint because the smell is unbearable, for obvious reasons.

Other places to visit:

Dar el-Makhzen (Royal Palace): The palace where the king still resides, and public entry is prohibited. Every day, hundreds of tourists come to see these golden Gates.

Zaouia Moulay Idriss II: This tomb, built for the founder of the city, is one of the holiest places in Fes. It is believed to enhance women’s fertility.

Dar Batha Museum: Built in the 19th century as a summer palace, it has been serving as a museum since 1916. Inside, you can find colorful Berber carpets, antique instruments, and a ceramic collection dating back to the 14th century.

The people of Fes are very tourist-friendly and welcoming. With our guide Omar, we explored mosaic, local silver craftsmanship, and weaving workshops, indulging in plenty of shopping. Haggling is a golden rule for shopping in Morocco, and we engaged in lively negotiations.

Lunch was at Restaurant Merinides. The apricot and egg lamb tajine was savored down to the last drop.

For dinner, our choice was Zagora Restaurant in the modern part of the city.

DAY 8-CHEFCHAOUEN

Our next destination is the blue city, Chefchaouen. The road took us 250 km, which is a 4-hour drive. Located in the northwest of the country in the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen is situated at an altitude of 660 meters above sea level. In the Berber language, its meaning is “two horns” because there is a valley where the mountain splits in two, and the city is built here.

Its most notable feature is the deep blue color of the Medina area. There is a square in this area called Uta El Hammam, and it is quite lively. In the 1930s, Sephardic Jewish refugees started painting their houses blue. They believe that this color symbolizes the power of God and represents the reflection of the sky. Another belief is that they paint their homes blue because they think it protects them from insects. Every two years, the houses and streets are repainted. The people predominantly speak Spanish. Over time, the Jewish population has decreased, and now Arabs, Spaniards, and Berbers live together in the city. Another reason for Chefchaouen’s fame is a commercial film shot by Giorgio Armani in 2011.

They grow marijuana here, and the region is the largest exporter of cannabis in the country. While using marijuana is prohibited in Morocco, it’s quite widespread in this city. We had lunch at Restaurant Casa Hassan with the main course being tomato and meatball tajine.

A natural wonder half an hour away from the city is the Cascades d’Akchour area, famous for its waterfalls and ponds. Moreover, the Rif Mountains offer some of Africa’s best trekking routes. One recommended trekking destination is the Talassemtane National Park.

After a 4-hour journey, we reached the capital, Rabat, and enjoyed the sunset. Rabat has been the country’s capital since 1918. It consists of two cities, Rabat and Sale. Sale, a small port, has an old city district dating back to the 12th century. The two cities are separated by a river that originates from the Atlas Mountains and flows into the Atlantic Ocean. At one point in history, it was also under the control of pirates.

After nightfall, we headed to Casablanca for the night. Our hotel was again Idou Anfa. Despite arriving late, they welcomed us with an excellent dinner. The Rick Bar, opened after the filming of Casablanca, offers a pleasant alternative with jazz music playing and the option to watch the movie while having a meal or a drink.

DAY 9-CASABLANCA AND RETURN

It’s time to part ways, leaving our hearts in Morocco as we returned on the 12:15 flight

Brief Notes:

• In Morocco, it’s important to pay attention to our clothing and remember that we are in an Islamic country.
• The currency in Morocco is the dirham (MAD, DH). The exchange rate is around 11 MAD = 1 €, and 1 MAD = 2 TRY. There are no issues with exchanging money, and euros are accepted by merchants in the city. Credit cards should be used in well-known places recommended by local guides.
• You can get a free phone card at the airport (including talk time and internet usage).
• Be cautious when someone offers to show you the way in the city; they might ask for money afterward.
• It’s advisable not to drink water from open sources.
• Morocco uses 220-240 V electricity, so no need for a converter.

FOOD AND DRINK

Zaalouk: A roasted eggplant salad flavored with garlic, red pepper, and cumin.

Harira: A soup made with tomatoes, chickpeas, green lentils, and lamb. It’s garnished with fresh cilantro and lemon.

Mint Tea: Often referred to as the “Moroccan Whiskey,” it’s Morocco’s traditional drink. It involves brewing Berber tea and serving it in glass cups with plenty of fresh mint leaves and sugar added.

Last Notes:

• According to the information I’ve gathered, intercity bus travel in Morocco may not be very comfortable. Private bus companies like ‘CMT’ or ‘Supratour’ are recommended. Tickets can be purchased online. Specifically for the Fes-Chefchaouen route, it is advisable to buy tickets in advance, as there is only bus transportation to Chefchaouen. For train travel, you can check prices and distances on the ONCF website, but tickets must be purchased at the station. Trains do not have assigned seat numbers, so being quick and alert is essential to find a seat. Bus seats are numbered. Train stations in Marrakech and Fes are approximately 3 km away from the city center. The Casablanca bus terminal and train station are in the city center. Taxis can be used within cities, but it’s important to engage in firm bargaining. Petit taxis can accommodate a maximum of 3 people, while grand taxis can take up to 6 people. If you use taxis at night, you may have to pay more than the daytime fare. Renting a chauffeured car is also a valid option. It eliminates the need for constant bargaining and dealing with public transportation, as well as the stress of navigating among French signs.
• Accommodation options in Morocco are diverse. In cities like Marrakech and Fes, staying in riads is a must. Riads are traditional Moroccan houses. After the chaos of the city, these houses, usually two stories high with a mosaic-floored courtyard and a small pool, are like oases, ideal for experiencing traditional life. Rooms are located around the courtyard on both the lower and upper floors. It is advisable to choose ones with heating and air conditioning. The smaller versions of these houses are called dar.