MALTA

If you think, ‘What could there be in a tiny island country stuck in the middle of the Mediterranean, detached from Italy?’ you are very mistaken. Malta will captivate you with its historical monuments, cultural richness, magnificent sea, and irresistible flavors. In Malta, famous for its colorful stone houses with wooden balconies, you will undoubtedly lose track of time, and you won’t be able to help but think, ‘Is every street this beautiful?’ The churches scattered abundantly among the buildings with Arabic influences will create a contrast, leaving your imagination much more impressed than what you see.”

While strolling through the streets of Malta, the beautifully adorned stone houses with balconies transport you to a completely different world. The most striking feature of these houses is their wooden balconies, which are adorned with shutters and street doors in the same color. Moreover, these colors are surprisingly bold, including green, blue, red, maroon, lilac, yellow, and more, defying expectations for a building. Watching these architectural elements so beautifully preserved and cherished, I couldn’t help but feel a touch of emotion, thinking of the old wooden houses in my Istanbul.

Due to its proximity to Italy, menus in Malta often bear the influence of Italian cuisine. Who wouldn’t love freshly made pasta enriched with a variety of sauces? With seas surrounding you from all sides, the tables become even more vibrant. The variety is abundant, and the chefs are creative.

The people of Malta are very cheerful and helpful. The beauty of the climate seems to have reflected on everyone’s spirits. The mild climate invites you to the island throughout the year, but the most popular tourist months are July and August.

Malta is the perfect destination if you’ve come for the sun, sea, and sand trio. If you’re staying in Valletta, don’t let the sea adorned with cliffs deceive you, because about 1 hour away, the island’s most famous beaches, Mellieha Bay, Golden Bay, and Ghajn Tuffieha await you with crystal clear waters and indescribable beauty. If you prefer a place away from the crowds, the sister islands Gozo and Comino, reached after a pleasant ferry trip, will make you feel like they belong only to you, indulging your soul.

Transportation in Malta is extremely easy. There is an extensive bus network covering the entire island. You realize how easy and comfortable public transportation can be when you come here. Just download the Tallinja app to your phone. Enter where you want to go, the date, and time, and it gives you all the possibilities. The buses are incredibly punctual, very clean, and comfortable. Don’t even bring the Istanbul metrobus into your mind!

Buses on all routes are quite frequent, and they are all designed for sitting, with no standing passengers.

Malta is a cultural melting pot; the majority of its 450,000 population are Catholic Christians, but the language is very close to Arabic, and the architecture reflects Arab culture. When it comes to the appearance of people, they are quite mixed and diverse. In fact, the reason is quite simple. The island is in a very strategic position. It dominates the entire Mediterranean. The first traces of life in Malta are found in the Neolithic period. Researchers describe the temples found in Ggantija (Gozo) as the oldest, standalone structures on earth. The Hypogeum in Paola, with its rooms and labyrinth passages carved from rocks, is a testament to the extraordinary success of prehistoric engineering, serving as the only underground temple of its kind. Other temples like Mnajdra, Hagar Qim, Tarxien, and many other noteworthy places confirm Malta’s status as the ‘Sacred Island’.

In the 8th century BC, the arrival of the Phoenicians marked the end of the prehistoric era and the entry of Malta into the pages of history. In the 5th century BC, we see the dominance of the Carthaginians. In 218 BC, the Maltese Islands became part of the Romans, who spread across the region, forming a vast empire. The Byzantine period, lasting for 375 years, came to an end in 870 AD when North African Berber forces seized the island. During Arab rule, which lasted for about two centuries, new agriculture and irrigation systems developed by the Arabs brought prosperity and peace to the island, with products like cotton and citrus. The most important city of that era was Mdina. The most enduring legacy of Arab rule is the Maltese language, which is very close to Arabic in its roots. Arab rule ended in 1090 with the Norman invasion and conquest of the island, but the influence of Arab culture continued until the late 13th century. The Norman period was relatively short, and after this period, Malta came under the rule of the Germans, the French, and the Spaniards. In 1522, Suleiman the Magnificent captured Rhodes, expelling the Knights of St. John from the island. In need of a new homeland, the knights settled in Malta in 1530, thanks to the privileges granted by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. In 1565, Suleiman the Magnificent besieged Malta with a powerful navy, but eventually, with the help from Sicily, the knights emerged victorious. Following the expedition organized by Turgut Reis and months of siege, the Ottoman Navy suffered a defeat, with more than 25,000 casualties. There is a cemetery in Malta for the soldiers who lost their lives. During the rule of the knights, the islands experienced a golden age in terms of architecture, art, and culture. Many magnificent structures in Malta date back to this period. The central location for mooring ships was moved to the seaside, and it was named “Valletta” after the Grand Master of the Knights, Jean Parisot De La Vallette. During this time, the importance of Mdina diminished, but since the university was there, intellectuals from Mdina continued to contribute to the country’s governance. Valletta is one of the earliest cities to use a rail system. Napoleon Bonaparte conquered the island in 1798. In 1800, the British took control to liberate the island from the French. Through the Treaty of Paris in 1814, Malta became part of the British Empire, maintaining its strategic importance as a steppingstone to the East. Malta declared its independence on September 21, 1964, and British forces remained until March 31, 1979. The cultural characteristics of the British have also left a lasting impact on the Maltese people.

Malta has a mild climate throughout the year. Geographically, there are no mountains or rivers on the island. Due to the low rainfall throughout the year, they obtain fresh water by purifying seawater. June and September are ideal months for both exploring and swimming without boiling due to the hot weather in summer. While tourism is the country’s primary source of income, education comes in second place. There are many institutions in Malta that provide English education, and this is due to the island’s long history as a British colony. After the British colonial period, everyone on the island speaks English, and traffic flows from the left. With English being one of the official languages, everyone truly speaks English, or at the very least, they insert a few English words when speaking their own language. The Maltese language sounds like Arabic with an accent. According to them, all the numbers are in Arabic, and it contains many Arabic words. “Merhba” which is the same as our “Merhaba” (Hello), and “le” for no, while “gratzi” for thank you comes from the Italian word “grazie”. The language has become a mix influenced by civilizations that set foot on the island.

Being a member of the European Union, Malta is located to the south of Libya and Tunisia and to the north of Sicily. The country consists of three islands: the largest one is Malta, a smaller one is Gozo, and in the middle is Comino, where only three families live. Although the islands may seem small, the places to see are scattered, and transportation can be a bit challenging, so it is advisable to decide in advance which places you want to visit.

Turkish Airlines operates direct flights to Malta. The journey from Istanbul Atatürk Airport to Malta Luqa Airport takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes. Subsequently, you can reach Valletta in 25 minutes using bus number X4. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver. Alternatively, you can also buy a multi-use card from the public transportation counter at the airport. The card, which can be used by multiple people and is valid for 12 trips, costs €15. Another option is the €21 card, which allows unlimited usage for one person for a week.

Valletta, the capital of the island, was destroyed during World War II but has been fully restored. The yellowish stone known as Maltese limestone has been used everywhere in the city, from houses to roads, sidewalks to churches. When viewed from a distance, the city’s symbol, the fortress, represents the military aspect of the city. St. John’s Cathedral, built in the late 16th century, and the Carmelite Church with its dome, known as the city’s symbol, represent its spiritual side. The Grand Master’s Palace at the top dominates the city.

Inside the walls of the old city, the main attractions are generally located around Republic Street.

One of the prominent places to visit in Valletta is St. John’s Co-Cathedral. Construction began in 1573, and the cathedral, built in the Baroque style, took five years to complete. Each column is adorned with a different motif and painted in golden yellow. The motifs are intricately carved into the stones. The cathedral houses paintings by the famous artist Caravaggio. The entrance fee for the cathedral is 10 euros, and for students, it’s 7.5 euros. Afterward, you can explore the Lower and Upper Barrakka Gardens and the Grandmaster’s Palace. The surroundings of the cathedral have undergone significant changes over time, and I’m sharing photos from a book depicting Malta’s history with current pictures.

The Manoel Theatre is one of the oldest theaters in Europe that is still in use. Its construction began in 1731, and remarkably, it was completed in a short period of 10 months. The theater is named after the Grand Master who commissioned its construction, Antonia Manoel de Vilhena. Stepping inside truly transports you to the past, creating a sensation of being on a film set from a bygone era. The small balconies and the furniture inside contribute to the authentic atmosphere, making it a beautifully preserved venue. The intricate decorations on the balcony edges and ceiling are particularly noteworthy. The entrance fee is 5 euros, and it is open on all days except Sundays; however, it closes on Saturday afternoons.

Another intriguing building to explore is the library.

We stayed at La Falconeria Hotel, which was conveniently located near the main street, Republic Street, and central bus stops. The hotel, recently renovated, was immaculate and the staff were exceptionally friendly and helpful. The hotel’s restaurant is well-known and recommended, also serving breakfast. Since we arrived at 9:50 after taking the 8:20 flight, we explored Mdina and Rabat while waiting for our hotel room to be prepared.

Mdina and Rabat can be reached by taking bus number 51, 52, or 53 from Valletta, approximately a 35-minute journey. Mdina and Rabat are two merged cities separated by a park. Mdina, the old central part of the city, consists of yellow stone houses with narrow streets. The name “Mdina” comes from the Arab invasion, and the Arabs who ruled here were the Fatimids. Mdina is situated a bit higher for easy observation, and its narrow streets were intentionally designed to make it difficult for pirates to enter. People used to tie their horses at the city’s entrance and walk inside. With its narrow streets restricting motorized vehicles, Mdina, known as the “Silent City”, earned its name with its serene atmosphere, medieval architecture, and stone houses. The outer part of the city is called Rabat. Rabat used to be the shopping center of ancient times. Here, you can explore the museum and underground tombs. Mdina and Rabat also offer splendid examples of glass craftsmanship. I highly recommend trying the Fior di Latte ice cream shop in Rabat.

Especially Palazzo Piro is fascinating.

Since we were aiming for a beach holiday, we allocated each day to a different beach. All the beaches we visited had the Blue Flag designation. The first one was ‘Mellieha/Ghadira Bay’ located in the north of the island. You can reach here directly from Valletta by taking bus number 44, which takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. This beach, which has the widest sandy area on the island, offers umbrella and sunbed rentals through various organizations. Additionally, there is a public beach area for day visitors who bring their own belongings (2 sunbeds with 1 umbrella cost 12€). Like all the beaches on the island, the water is quite shallow. There is also an inflatable play park in the sea made of inflatable equipment for the little travelers. Paradise Bay is nearby, but my preference is for Mellieha.

Our second beach was Golden Bay/Ghajn Tuffieha on the west side of the island. These are two bays with a 10-minute walking distance between them. You can reach Golden Bay by taking bus number 44, which takes about 1 hour and 17 minutes. There are opportunities to rent umbrellas and sunbeds. If you have time, you can also visit the UNESCO-protected Ta’Hagrat Temples nearby and Ghar Lapsi by the sea.

My suggestion is to consider taking a short walk to Ghajn Tuffieha. It’s truly a magnificent bay. You descend to the seaside through steps. There is a restaurant in the bay called Riviera, where you can also rent umbrellas and sunbeds (€15 for 2 sunbeds and 1 umbrella). You can also use the beach by bringing your own belongings.

When I climbed to the top to get a better view, I was immediately enchanted by the legendary beauty of the adjacent bay. However, reaching this place may only be possible by sea, or you may need to cover a challenging path through the hills.

Valletta offers quite delightful dining options, which I will touch upon at the end of my writing. However, you must spend one evening in Marsaxlokk and have your dinner here.

Marsaxlokk is a tiny but charming fishing village. Marsa means port, and xlokk means southeast. So, this is the southeast fishing port. Its beauty comes from the colorful fishing boats moored along the coast. When you see the eye-shaped symbols reminiscent of our evil eye bead, you start feeling a bit more connected to this place. Maltese people paint their boats, called Luzzu, in yellow, red, blue, and green hues, and they carve a pair of eyes on the bow of these boats. It is believed that this symbol, known as the “Eye of Horus”, will protect fishermen from evil coming from the sea. These eye markings are also referred to as the “Malta eye”. Hagar Qim, Blue Grotto, and Marsaxlokk are close routes. From Valletta, you can reach Marsaxlokk in 38 minutes by bus number 85 or in 47 minutes by bus number 81. It’s quite likely that you can see all these destinations in one day. Hagar Qim is an ancient temple built around 3200 BC, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Blue Grotto is a beautiful rocky area above the sea that has been eroded over time. During calm weather, you can explore the caves here with boats. If you happen to visit on Sundays, there is a fish market. Also, near Marsaxlokk, you can visit the Ghar Dalam caves, the Parish Church and surrounding temples in the L-imgarr area.

The second-largest island, Gozo, is best known for the Azure Window at Dwejra Bay. This massive rock formation, resembling a window opening over the sea, was featured in the “Game of Thrones” series. Malta has two different sets for the “Game of Thrones” series, with La Valetta representing King’s Landing and Gozo Island, specifically the Azure Window, serving as the location for the wedding of Daenerys Targaryen and Khal Drogo. Unfortunately, the Azure Window collapsed recently due to the impact of waves and wind. If the wind is calm, you can still have the chance to see Azure Window and the unique caves formed by the waves with small boats. This boat tour, lasting about 15 minutes, is conducted with small motorboats for up to 9 people. Be sure to enjoy the day and, if there are no waves, cool off in the natural pools. The central town of Gozo is Victoria. Other places to visit include Xlendi, Kantra Bay, Ramla Bay, and Mgar Ix-xini. To reach Cirkewwa port, you can use bus lines 41-42 from the Valletta region. From there, you can cross to the Gozo Island by boat or ferry, which takes about half an hour. They reportedly collect the ferry fee on the return journey at the port in Gozo. Victoria, the island’s center, offers the opportunity to climb to the restored castle and enjoy a high vantage point to see the island, although it’s said that Victoria does not differ much from other cities on the island.

For diving enthusiasts, Gozo and Comino islands are a paradise. The underwater life is beautiful, and diving into the wrecks is especially enjoyable.

Comino, the smallest of the islands, is quite a pristine island with a few families residing on it and several hotels. To reach the Blue Lagoon, which has sand like in the Maldives, you need to take a boat from either Cirkewwa or Mgar Port. The boat trip takes about 15 minutes, and the round trip costs 10€.

The beach has only small snack bars. The beach itself is quite small. There is an option to rent sunbeds and umbrellas, but since the number is limited, it’s advisable to go early. People usually bring their towels and spread out on the rocky areas. The cost of two sunbeds and one umbrella is 30€. Despite going on a Monday, it was quite crowded, but the sea is truly amazing.

During the boat return journey, they offer a tour of the caves. One important thing to note is to sit on the left side of the boat, facing the direction of travel.

Mosta is one of the important cities on the island of Malta. Its name, literally meaning “center”, accurately reflects its location in the middle of the Maltese island. When you travel by bus from Valletta towards the west or south coasts of the island, you pass through this city, which has an interesting story: St. Marie Church, built in the 18th century and having the world’s third-largest dome, inspired by the Pantheon, was bombed by the Germans in 1942 during World War II. Remarkably, 300 people inside the church survived the attack as the bomb remained suspended on the church’s roof without exploding. Following this event, it became believed that the city was blessed through the prayers of the 300 individuals, and the church was subsequently washed in a ceremony.

For our return, we chose the 10:50 flight, arriving in Istanbul at 14:10

General notes:

• Valletta is situated on a peninsula at the intersection of two bays, and Sliema is on the opposite shore. Recently, I read that it has been chosen as one of the cheapest holiday destinations. Although I didn’t get a chance to explore it, from a distance, it seemed somewhat concrete-heavy and overly urbanized. Personally, I didn’t feel the urge to visit.
• Taxis are not easy to find, and they can be quite expensive. It’s recommended not to trust taxi drivers, and if possible, use the Pay&Go system at stops where it’s applicable for taxis. With this system, you pay a fixed fare in advance, and then you take the taxi. If you can’t find a stop, always negotiate the fare if you decide to take a taxi.
• Plan your list of places to visit in Malta in advance, and if it makes sense for your itinerary, consider getting a Malta Pass. It comes in 1, 2, and 3-day options.
• Most outlets in Malta have British-style plugs, so don’t forget to bring an adapter.

Best Beaches of the island:

1. Golden Bay (batı Malta)
2. Blue Lagoon (Comino)
3. Peter’s pool (güney Malta)
4. Ghajn Tuffieha (batı Malta)
5. Mellieha Bay (kuzey Malta)
6. Ramla l-Hamra (Gozo)
7. Mgarr ix-Xini (Gozo)
8. Paradise Bay (kuzey Malta)
9. Hondoq ir-Rummien (Gozo)
10. San Blas Bay (Gozo)

FOOD and DRINK

Guzé– This small bistro offers magnificent examples of Italian cuisine and features an ethnic and interesting decor. Don’t expect a breezy seaside view as its location is tucked away on a side street, but the flavors you’ll experience make it a place worth considering. Starters range from 10-14€, handmade fresh pastas from 11-15€, and main courses from 16-26€.

La Reggia– The perfect choice in Marsaxlokk. The kitchen is run by a young and talented chef, while his wife manages the service with her team. Tables set with white linen cloths by the seaside are quite inviting. I recommend making a reservation in advance to dine at one of these beautiful tables. Especially, the swordfish carpaccio is simply perfect! I haven’t had octopus this simple yet elegantly seasoned and so tender. Cold starters range from 9-11€, appetizers from 6-10€, pastas from 10-12€, main courses from 16-28€, and desserts from 4-6€

Panorama Restaurant-A blend of magnificent flavors with a breathtaking view. Located on the ground floor of the British Hotel, it has a balcony with seating for only 28 people, so it’s essential to make a reservation in advance! Afterward, crystal glasses, elegant service, and magnificent flavors await you. Starters range from 8-12€, pastas from 12-14€, main courses from 23-29€, and desserts from 5-8€. I particularly recommend the seafood risotto and pistachio crème brûlée.

Amorino-An Italian gelateria located on Republica Street. I’m a fan. Especially, I recommend trying their stracciatella ice cream. You won’t be disappointed!