MADAGASCAR-2

Goncagül Haklar, November 2018

After covering the mainland Madagascar in my first article, it’s time to explore the exotic paradise of Île Sainte-Marie and Île aux Nattes Islands. If you are a fan of tropical islands, this is the place for you.

You can access my first article about Madagascar from here.

Although known among travelers as Île Sainte-Marie, the local name of the island is Nosy Boraha. It has a surface area of 222 km2. The most important city is Ambodifotatra. The island, located about 8 km off the east coast of Madagascar, is quite narrow and long, with a length of 57 kilometers and a width of 7 kilometers.

To reach Île Sainte-Marie, you need to take a 45-minute flight from the capital, Antananarivo. Interestingly, delays in flights are commonplace, but in Madagascar, planes usually depart 45-50 minutes before the scheduled time. I am always cautious about going to the airport, so we didn’t have any problems, but be sure not to be a last-minute person; the plane may leave before you board.

During our flight, I was deeply engrossed in the book I was reading. When I noticed the movement around, signaling our descent, I quickly decided to look out of the window on my right. The sea was just 1-2 meters below. While grappling with thoughts like “Are we falling? Where are the life jackets?” the plane’s wheels touched the runway. One end of the airport’s runway is so close to the sea.

The accommodation we stayed at Princesse Bora which is highly recommended on the island. The welcoming team took our suitcases and directed us to a vehicle pulled by zebus. The zebus were pulling the vehicle on one side and eagerly munching on the greenery along the roadside on the other. After a short and interesting journey, we arrived at Princesse Bora and were greeted with flowers. There are a total of 20 bungalows, each with a different name. Ours was called papillon (butterfly).

The turquoise sea and soft white sands of the island are truly magnificent, but what is truly impressive is that all these beauties are presented to you in an untouched environment. Based on my previous experiences on similar islands, I know that being too touristy often translates to large hotels, excessive crowds, and a manufactured experience. When you look at the island from a distance, you don’t see any buildings; you’re only greeted by palm trees. For example, at Princesse Bora, where we stayed, there were 20 bungalows, each skillfully hidden among the trees. Yes, you are in paradise. In this paradise island, your task is to take your book, enjoy the sun and the sea, walk along the beach, and if you’re curious, collect various seashells. Taking advantage of being in the southern hemisphere, you can make your friends envious on days when they are shivering in the cold by sharing your experiences from the paradise island.

Deciding that enjoying a spa experience is a must on this exotic island, we also tried it out.

Sun, sea, and sand trio may attract tourists, but the island’s standout activity is observing humpback whales. These whales come here from Antarctica in July to breed and stay until the end of September. On guided trips with scientists, you can observe the whales, and if you’re lucky, you might even see a mother whale nursing her calf. Princesse Bora, where we stayed, is well-known for this activity, but unfortunately, we missed out since we were there after this period. I’ll definitely include this fascinating activity in my next Madagascar trip.

The sunrises and sunsets on the island are also legendary. Since Princesse Bora is on the west coast of the island, we experienced magnificent sunsets. However, we can’t help but wonder; maybe our luck will bring sunrises on our next visit.

We were there during the full moon. I had never seen such pronounced tides before. During the day, when you jumped off the pier into the 2-meter-deep water, in the late afternoon, the local people were walking around and fishing as the water level dropped.

Madagascans have an interesting habit; they carry everything on their heads. Our handbag becomes a headbag when they carry it on their heads. You get used to seeing them carry bags or baskets on their heads after a while, but I once saw someone carrying an antenna on their head. And not just any antenna, but the old-fashioned rooftop antenna with arms that we had in our childhood. I couldn’t believe it when I saw it – they had placed it on their head and were walking down the street, chatting with a friend as if it were the most normal thing.

The island, being located on the main sea routes, providing sheltered bays for protection from storms, and boasting a rich natural environment, became a favorite of pirates for many years. This era began with Adam Baldridge in 1685 and continued until John Pro in 1719. The island’s most famous pirates were William Kidd and Thomas Tew. Although not entirely proven, the utopian Republic of Libertalia, said to have been established by pirates, was also founded in these lands. From this colorful past, the world’s only pirate cemetery has survived to the present day. You can visit by purchasing a ticket and exploring with local guides. Part of the journey is covered by tuk-tuk, but there is also about a 15-minute walking portion. At times, you walk through waters, accompanied by small crabs, and the graveyard is situated on a hill overlooking the sea. The tombstones are adorned with plenty of skulls and bones, making you feel like you’ve been transported back in time—an intriguing experience.

For diving enthusiasts, the underwater world is said to be a paradise. I’m sure the island’s coral formations, tropical fish, giant sea turtles, and pirate shipwrecks offer a unique atmosphere. As someone whose entire childhood was spent watching Captain Cousteau’s underwater documentaries, I have a great interest in this subject. Unfortunately, I have never had the opportunity to experience these beauties firsthand due to a lack of formal training.

Mother Nature has been very generous to the island. The land is rich and fertile, hosting a unique fauna and flora, including plenty of lemurs. Orchids are also quite fascinating, especially the Madagascar Queen. The facility where we stayed had its private vegetable garden and forest. They guided us through both, introducing each plant individually. Personally, my botanical knowledge is at the level of distinguishing a daisy from a pine tree, but after this trip, I became knowledgeable about the entire plant kingdom, from ylang-ylang to lemongrass. The most interesting tree is undoubtedly the traveler’s tree. With its broad leaves that can serve as an umbrella to protect from rain, and the ability to use its stems as spoons to eat, the most critical feature of this tree is its water storage. When you open the layers of the trunk with a sharp knife, water flows out like from a faucet.

The most enjoyable moment of our forest tour was the coconut tasting. First, they open a hole in the top with long knives to serve the coconut water. After you finish the water, they split it in half, allowing you to eat the inner layer. I don’t usually enjoy the taste of coconut because I find it too strong, but the one I had here had a very delicate flavor, and I must say I liked it.

For travelers eager to explore the island, there are walking tours, bike rides, and the use of 4×4 vehicles available. Tuk-tuks serve as taxis on the island. The east coast of the island is also quite beautiful.

The island also offers different alternatives for those with an interest in fishing. Personally, I’m not a picky eater, so I contented myself with consuming whatever came my way. The seafood is truly fantastic, with a wide variety, and they are skillfully cooked.

You can reach the neighboring island Île aux Nattes (Nosy Nato) by local canoes called lakana. The island gets its name from the Sapotaceae trees locally known as nanto. These beautiful trees with pink flowers bear sweet and juicy fruits like little apples. Around 1500 people live on the island, and there are no motorized vehicles.

This place sounds truly enchanting with its white sandy beaches, palm trees leaning toward the sea, turquoise waters, and the gentle breeze brushing against your face. The distance between the two islands is approximately 300 meters, so technically you could swim between them easily. During low tide, it’s even possible to walk from one island to the other. The entire island can be explored on foot in about 2 hours. Crabs of different sizes and colors seem to be the main inhabitants of the island, but they don’t hinder the enjoyment of the experience.

Madagascar’s land area is larger than that of France. Besides these two paradise islands, Madagascar has various impressive places to visit. Let’s list them:

Nosy Be Island and Antanambe: Nosy Be is the most touristic island located in the northwest of Madagascar. This region, known as the migration route of whales, also hosts Ylang-ylang trees, which are of great importance to the country’s economy. Antanambe is located north of the archipelagos around Nosy Be Island. Visitors to this area can observe Malagasy people’s homemade houses, kitchens, daily lives, and handicrafts. While in Antanambe, you can also enjoy the enchanting Sakatia Beach.
Isalo National Park: Isalo National Park, situated 462 km south of Antananarivo, serves as both a zoo and a natural habitat area. In the park, you may encounter lemurs, reptiles, turtles, snakes of various sizes, and chameleons freely roaming in their natural habitats. Guided tours offer the opportunity to camp in the unique nature of Madagascar, allowing you to immerse yourself in silence and nature.
Antsiranana: This region, also known as Diego Suarez, is located at the northernmost tip of the island. Antsiranana, established by the Portuguese, serves as Madagascar’s third-largest port, with a population of around 8,000. Antsiranana has a cosmopolitan atmosphere and a city structure that reflects the colonial era. Its most significant feature is hosting Diego Bay, known as the world’s third most beautiful bay, and the enchanting Sugar Loaf Island. It’s also an ideal place to see five-hundred-year-old baobab trees!
Tamatave: Located on the eastern coast of Madagascar, Tamatave (Toamasina) is a natural harbor and the only one on the east coast, accessible by a 7-hour road trip from Tana. Tamatave boasts impressive beaches with white sands, tropical shores, and reefs, along with several hotels. However, visitors should be cautious about sharks in the area.
Masoala National Park: Located in the northeast of the island, Masoala National Park is covered with rainforests and is 453 km away from Antananarivo by road. In addition to rainforests, the park also includes facilities for underwater and water surface sports.
Ambohimanga: Located at the northern tip, Ambohimanga’s Royal Hill is the most sacred region in Madagascar. Hosting the rulers and nobility of Madagascar for 500 years, the exotic palace’s most interesting feature is the wall surrounding it, built in 1857 with a cement made of lemons and egg whites.
Ifaty: Ifaty, a fishing village community in the southwest of Madagascar, is about a 16-hour drive from Tana. One of its features is being considered one of the world’s most ideal diving areas.
Baobab Avenue: Baobab Avenue is a road that stretches under the shade of 800-year-old Baobab trees. Considered a privilege to travel on the road connecting the capital to Morondava and Tsiribihina, which offers a world-famous view and takes about 11 hours by road from the capital.
Reunion Island: Located near Madagascar in the southeast of the African continent, Reunion is a French island known for its diverse formations and volcanoes. Saint-Denis, surrounded by mountains on three sides, is the island’s most important city. The island has rich underwater life in its coral reefs, making it fascinating for those interested in different geological formations and volcanoes. There are many boutique hotels on the island.
Tsingy de Bemaraha: Also known as the Stone Forest, Bemaraha is a magnificent plateau in which even sitting and spending some time admiring the scenery can cleanse your soul. Besides the unique view of the rocks, the night sky over Bemaraha creates stunning vistas. About 10% of Madagascar is protected as a reserve or park area. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park was first included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1990, and in 2007, six more parks were added under the title of Atsinanana Rainforests.