MADAGASCAR-1

Madagascar, an island nation in the Indian Ocean off the east coast of Africa, attracts energetic and adventurous spirits with its unique nature and diverse species. Throughout the island, you can encounter distinctive trees and flowers, along with captivating creatures such as colorful chameleons, various species of lemurs, giant tortoises, carnivorous plants, dancing sifaka lemurs, and enormous baobab trees. Get ready to be amazed! In addition to the island’s unique nature, its pristine white beaches, turquoise seas, and promising diving opportunities also entice travelers into a different World.

First, I must mention that I organized my trip to Madagascar entirely on my own. The country offers a variety of options for travelers, making it best to tailor your journey according to your preferences. I divided my trip into two parts: exploring the rainforests and wildlife on the mainland and enjoying a beach holiday on the eastern coast’s islands. Therefore, I will write my trip in two separate sections. Let me also say the last thing first: my heart stayed in Madagascar, and I have already made plans for my next trip there.

Friends often questioned why I chose Madagascar. During my dinner at “Georges Rhumerie” in Cambodia, the exquisite flavors mesmerized me. The chef’s Malagasy origins and the fusion of both French and Malagasy flavors inspired me. Such a colorful gastronomic world had to take me to very different lands, and it did.

Another topic of curiosity was the safety situation on the island. When I discussed this with our guides, they emphasized that there was no such issue. They explained that unless you pose a threat to them or their animals, the locals are unlikely to harm you. In fact, leaving your wallet or phone in the open wouldn’t attract any attention. We didn’t witness any negativity during our stay.

Madagascar gained worldwide recognition through the animated film series “Madagascar” and the entertaining character, King Julien. Lemurs are the iconic animals of Madagascar. Considered sacred by the Malagasy people, lemurs have 103 different species on the island, according to a 2012 census. There are genetic parallels between lemurs and humans, and these intelligent and mischievous creatures exhibit high levels of social communication due to their curiosity. While lemurs in their natural habitats won’t approach you, they are definitely not aggressive. Lemurs in private breeding farms are very accustomed to humans and will eagerly interact with you. Walking around with them is a unique and delightful experience.

Madagascar’s most remarkable feature is that 99% of its plants and animals are found only in Madagascar. The island’s wildlife and biodiversity are evidenced by 103 species of endemic lemurs, 236 bird species (with over 100 endemic species), and over 12,000 plant species, 90% of which are endemic. Some of the unique animals found only in Madagascar include the largest birds in the world, the elephant birds (whose species we’ve carefully eradicated), giraffe beetles, micro chameleons, dancing sifaka lemurs, geckos, tomato frogs, flat-tailed lizards, comet moths, spear-nosed snakes, tenrecs, fossas, indris, black lemurs, aye-ayes, and more. With this biodiversity, Madagascar competes strongly with the Galapagos Islands.

The cuisine of Madagascar, a blend of Endo-Malay, African, European, Indian, and Chinese cultures, is considered one of the world’s most colorful cuisines. Interestingly, in the Malagasy language, the word for food means eating rice. On the mainland, rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see.

People in Madagascar consume an average of 300 grams of rice per day per person. They cook rice without oil and salt but never make it mushy. The people are relatively poor, but thanks to rice and naturally available fruits, hunger is not an issue. I didn’t forget the wine enthusiasts. Ambalavao is a region known for silk fabrics and wines in Madagascar.

For diving enthusiasts, the coral reefs in the south, ‘Ifaty’, and Isalo National Park offer fantastic diving experiences. The Stone Forest (Tsingy de Bemaraha), considered the world’s most interesting forest, is located in the Melaky region in the west of the Madagascar island. This karstic plateau, formed over millions of years due to erosion, consists of sharp and needle-like rocky surfaces and caves.

Despite its social and political volatility, the island attracts approximately 400,000 tourists annually. In fact, it deserves much more, but what makes it truly impressive is its untouched and pristine state. Based on my experiences in similar islands, I know that being too touristy often leads to large hotels, overcrowding, and a factory-like atmosphere. However, Madagascar, in its pure and untouched state, is truly impressive.

Madagascar is an island with a history of human settlement for 2000 years. Once entirely covered with forests, the increase in human settlement and approaches to clear land for agriculture have led to the significant destruction of forests. Unfortunately, this decrease in forests also takes away Madagascar’s biodiversity. Madagascar should be visited before its biodiversity disappears, concluding on this note!

Madagascar, the world’s fourth-largest island, is separated from the African mainland by the Mozambique Channel. The closest continental country is Mozambique, located to the west of the island. Other neighboring island countries include the Comoros Islands and the French overseas region of Mayotte to the northwest, and Mauritius and the French overseas region of Réunion Islands to the east. With a population exceeding 21 million, Madagascar is one of the poor countries in Africa, with a per capita income of USD 440, placing the country among the world’s poorest. However, considering the richness of its underground and above-ground resources, Madagascar is among the richest in the world. The reason for Madagascar’s current situation is entirely political. Shortly before our visit, the first round of elections had taken place. The local people are very clear in expressing their desire for a president who will work for Madagascar, not just for themselves. The unemployment rate is reportedly 75%. The people are extremely hardworking, and those who have jobs work tirelessly without rest. I wish the best for my islander friends in all aspects.

Madagascar has a hot and subtropical climate. The period from November to April is characterized by warm and rainy weather, while May to October is dry and cool. December is the hottest month, with temperatures reaching up to 30°C, while July, the coldest month, sees temperatures dropping to around 9°C. The most suitable time to visit Madagascar is during the non-rainy season, from January to March. Although we visited in November, we were fortunate to experience pleasant weather with temperatures around 30°C during the day, comfortable nights, and a sea temperature of 26°C. The climate varies significantly depending on the region; the central highlands experience cooler and rainy conditions from March to September, making August and September ideal for visiting the southwestern regions. August and September are excellent for bird migration, while October to December is a fantastic time to witness lemur births. If you are planning a wildlife-focused trip, the period between October and December is ideal, but keep in mind that the least preferred times to visit Madagascar are from late December to early April.

Madagascar’s story as an island dates back a whopping 165 million years. During a period when Africa and India separated from each other, Madagascar, which initially broke away from Africa, later detached from India as well, remaining as an island adjacent to Africa when India moved northeastward with the Asian continent. Madagascar has been hosting an isolated nature from the outside world for 70 million years. Despite its proximity to the African continent, the first settlers on the island surprisingly came from almost the other side of the world. Estimates suggest that between 500 and 300 BC, a large colony set sail from the Borneo Islands in Southeast Asia, on the other side of the Indian Ocean, and arrived in Madagascar. Africans, on the other hand, set foot on the island about 500 years later. It was a significant maritime achievement for the Borneo people to undertake such a journey while European sailors were still navigating the waters of the Mediterranean. Madagascar was ruled by a monarchy for many years and resisted great powers so effectively that, for Europeans, passing Madagascar was as challenging as crossing the Dardanelles. Portuguese navigator Diego Dias was the first European to set foot on the island in the 1500s. In the following years, the island became a stopover for Dutch, British, and American merchant ships. One of the most poignant tales of heroism in Madagascar is Queen Ranavalona III successfully defending her country against French colonizers from 1883 to 1897. Throughout its history, Madagascar has been governed by many queens, setting an example for the world as a matriarchal society. After the occupation, the French depleted mica and graphite mines and established coffee and rice plantations across the island. Following a barter in 1942 that transferred control to Britain, the country, subsequently ruled by the French colonial system and military violence, may have cost the lives of 90,000 Malagasy people fighting for independence. Initially obtaining autonomy within the French Community as the Malagasy Republic in 1958, Madagascar achieved independence under the presidency of Philibert Tsiranana in 1960, following the adoption of the country’s constitution in 1959.

Madagascar served as a secret base for pirates for many years. In the 18th and 19th centuries, many European pirates settled in Madagascar to establish a new nation, and they founded the legendary pirate haven known as “Libertatia”. Diving enthusiasts often encounter numerous pirate ships at the seabed for this reason. I’ve even visited the world’s only pirate cemetery on Île Sainte-Marie (I’ll share more about it in my second post).

Madagascar, with its official languages Malagasy and French, has about 70% of its population following Christianity. The minority Muslim population constitutes about 11%. One of the most intriguing aspects of the island is observing the lifestyles of different ethnic tribes that derive their philosophies from ancestral respect. There are 18 distinct tribes in Madagascar, and among them, you can easily distinguish those of Asian origin, such as the descendants of Indonesians, amidst the predominantly African tribes.

The capital, Antananarivo (pronounced Anatananariv or simply Tana), has reciprocal flights with Istanbul operated by Turkish Airlines. The journey takes approximately 13 hours, with an 11-hour flight to Mauritius, a one-hour layover for passenger disembarkation, and then about a one-hour flight to Madagascar. The capital hosts institutions such as the Presidency, National Assembly, Senate, and Constitutional Court, serving as the center for 21 diplomatic representations of other countries, numerous international companies, and NGOs. I also captured an aerial photograph of the island of Mauritius during the flight.

Madagascar, an island larger than France in terms of land area, has numerous places to explore. I’ll save the details about the attractions for my second post and continue by sharing our itinerary on the mainland.

You can access my second article about Madagascar from here.

DAY 1- ANTANANARIVO

I started my Madagascar trip planning by reading a lot, and when I couldn’t find any Turkish travel agency’s program to my liking, despite the challenging geography, I decided to take matters into my own hands. My research led me to a local agency called Malagasy Tour. With my guidance, a program was created exactly as I wanted.

Firstly, let me talk about health requirements. The most sensitive issue regarding vaccinations is yellow fever. Although various sources may state that this vaccine is mandatory, I personally checked the pages of the Center for Disease Control (CDC), and if you are not flying from a region with a yellow fever risk—like Turkey—it is not mandatory. Since it was time, I got a booster shot for diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, just to be safe. Malaria is a risk throughout the African continent, so using insect repellent, wearing long sleeves, and choosing pants instead of shorts are sufficient precautions.

At the Antananarivo airport, health controllers and visa processing officers await you. You pay 35 € for the visa. It’s advisable to exchange some money before leaving the airport; hotels also provide this service, but the rates are a bit higher. The local currency is 1 Ariary (AA) = 0.00024 €, making dining, and other expenses extremely affordable.

We smoothly proceeded through the stages at the airport. Upon exit, we met our local guide, Manch, and boarded our jeep to head to Andasibe Natural Park. Although our journey was 150 km, estimating the time it takes to travel from one place to another in Madagascar is quite challenging. I must mention that, except for a very limited area in the capital, all the roads I saw were one-way, and especially in the capital, traffic doesn’t flow smoothly. People don’t seem to mind this much. They take their time, observe their surroundings, and engage in conversation. There are no traffic signs or lanes, and even traffic lights are absent. They say, “We can’t afford to spend our generated energy on these things.” The traffic flows in a unique dynamic, progressing without causing any chaos.

Our long but enjoyable journey, starting from the capital, flowed with occasional photo stops, the small bananas our guide Manch offered us, and his informative commentary.

After about 3 hours on the road, Manch gave us the good news: “We have only 10 km left”. With the fatigue from the plane and the road journey, we thought, “This is it, we’re almost there”. But the smiles on our faces froze when Manch said, “We have about 1 hour left”. The physics lessons from middle school flashed before my eyes, speed equals distance over time. How could a 10 km distance take 1 hour, we wondered, and it didn’t take long for us to find the answer. The road was like a Swiss cheese with plenty of holes! But the end of the road is paradise. Hotel Vakona Forest Lodge is like an oasis on the edge of its own pond within the rainforests. If you want to listen to the silence in Madagascar, this is the place. There are about 20 bungalows for accommodation, all in the forest and in harmony with nature. The hotel restaurant serves delicious food, and there is also a spa and a swimming pool.

DAY 2-RAIN FORESTS

After a nice breakfast, we met with our guide Manch at 8:00. We have a quite busy day ahead. Our first stop is Andasibe Natural Park. We meet our local guide who will assist us and dive into the depths of the forest. Personally, my botanical knowledge is at a level where I can distinguish a pine tree from a daisy. Our guide carefully explained each plant, even examining plants used as raw materials for medicinal drugs. He showed us different birds, supported his explanations with the books he brought along.

But most importantly, he introduced us to lemurs in their natural habitats. We had the opportunity to see four different species of lemurs: golden, black and white, brown, and bamboo lemurs. The golden ones are quite playful, the brown lemurs are quite affectionate, and the bamboo lemurs are the smallest.

After wandering through these untouched forests for 5 hours, we took a pleasant lunch break and tasted local dishes. In the second part of the day, we visited the Rianasoa Waterfall and then the Sacred Waterfall. As the name suggests, those who come to the sacred waterfall with a sacrificial offering first slaughter their offerings and then swim in the waterfall.

DAY 3-PRIVATE RESERVES

We started the day by visiting the Vakona Private Reserve. Here, lemurs of different species are under protection and care. Lemurs are very afraid of water, so to prevent mixing between species, different types are kept on different islands. The brown lemurs, who are the friendliest, climb onto your shoulders instantly. In fact, 2-3 of them can perch on your shoulders together, accompanying you as you explore the island. Black-and-white lemurs are a bit more distant, but they also approach as they envy your intimacy with brown lemurs. You observe some species from a distance, such as red lemurs and golden lemurs.

The second part of the private reserve area was predominantly reptile focused. Our tour began with dozens of crocodiles lazily sunbathing on the grass. It continued with different geckos, colorful lizards, giant tortoises, giraffe beetles, and various snakes. The plant life was once again astonishing. For example, we saw giant bamboo that grows 10 cm a day. I wished I could hold one and watch it grow for a meter, but the day was long, and the schedule was tight.

Our final stop before the capital was the Peyrieras Reserve Area. First, we examined the colorful chameleons, and we didn’t just examine them, but we touched them.

After that, two astonishing creatures again, the tomato frog and the tiny red frog with a size of 1×1 cm. Bats and lizards have become commonplace for us now.

When I held the velvet gecko in my hand, I couldn’t believe it. Touching this unique lizard, specific to the island and resembling a gecko, gives you the sensation of touching silk fabric—it seems like Madagascar continues to surprise us! Then, just to make it complete, I decide to hold a snake as well. The movement of a snake in the palm of one’s hand is indescribable; it must be experienced. It’s such a different feeling!

You can’t get enough of looking at the colorful flowers on the island. Especially the plants that resemble our Atatürk flower and have leaves turning red are very interesting. When you fold the leaves of the plant in half, the shape of the island of Madagascar is formed, which is quite fascinating.

We return to the capital for accommodation in the evening. Our address for accommodation is Les Trois Metis Hotel. Since we spent the next 3 days on Île Sainte-Marie, I’ll leave that part for my other writing and skip to the 7th day, where I describe our last day spent in the capital.

DAY 7-ANTANANARIVO

Antananarivo means “City of a Thousand Warriors”. It got this name in the 1800s after the city fought against colonialists. Even within the city, there are numerous rice fields. These fields are owned by the state, but if you cultivate the field for five years, you gain ownership rights. The only condition is that you either employ a person in need and pay them or share a part of your produce with someone in need. They are placing more emphasis on education, with 80,000 students in primary school, 500,000 in secondary education, and 20,000 in high school. There is one state university in Tana and six nationwide, along with a significant number of private universities.

The influence of French is evident in the language, making it easily understandable for speakers of French. Some similarities in words are quite surprising. For instance, “baba” (dad) in Turkish is “babba” in Malagasy.

When wandering in the capital, you won’t come across many cats or dogs, but chickens seem to have taken their place. The streets are filled with a considerable number of chickens, faithful enough to leave in the morning and return home by evening. People even take their chickens for a stroll.

Public transportation in the city is quite interesting. Minibuses have a single wing door at the back. When the door opens, passengers create a pressure from inside to outside and vice versa. There is also a steward in the minibus. At some point, the system finds balance, the door closes, and the journey continues.

The population of the capital is 4 million, with an average age of 20, indicating a very young population. I stop being surprised when I learn that they don’t practice birth control.

The city was founded in 1610, and the construction of the royal palace dates to 1840. Many notable buildings in the city were designed by European architects. One interesting example is a massive heart-shaped pool in the middle of the city, created by an architect who was in love with the queen and wanted it to be visible from her bedroom.

Unfortunately, the royal palace suffered a major fire in 1995, and it is currently undergoing renovation. Upon entering the area of the palace, travelers encounter a royal tomb from 1823 and a queen’s tomb from 1859, with the queen’s tomb being more magnificent. The weight of the stone right next to the gate entrance is said to be 120 kg. Those who lift it earn the title of warrior. The accessible parts of the palace, visually and through the guide’s explanations, illustrate the effectiveness of the matriarchal order. The palace’s church also suffered from the fire, but its restoration is complete. The most unfortunate aspect is the complete loss of the original stained glass windows. Only one window retains the original stained glass. Those descended from the dynasty use the color red, while the public uses white. This distinction is reflected in the Madagascar flag, which consists of red, white, and green, with green symbolizing nature.

Within the palace complex, there are many interesting details, from a private school built by the royal family for the education of girls to the pool the family enters during lunar cycles. Although they traditionally used the Arabic alphabet, King Radama introduced the Latin alphabet. They don’t use the letters C, q, x, u, and w, and their alphabet consists of 21 letters. There is a special inscription indicating this.

Madagascar vanilla is world-famous. You can see the vanilla plants on the trees, but you’re not allowed to pick them. For those who want to buy vanilla during their visit, here’s an address: De l’art en Epices (Lot AB 63 Ankadindravola IVATO 105 Antananarivo). They can send it by mail if you place an order (laila.bavy@gmail.com).

Another must-do when visiting is exploring the local market. It’s a bustling, colorful, and unique experience. The local textiles are quite fascinating. For souvenir shopping, I have a recommendation: Lisy Art Gallery.

FOOD and DRINK

Vakona Forest Lodge: First, I must mention that the bread is amazing. Wherever I ate in the country, they all served warm, crispy bread. Zebu, a unique type of cattle, is a must-try meat in Madagascar. Both the zebu and pumpkin soup we had on the first night and the chicken-filled ‘petit chou’ with ‘massale’ on the second night were delicious. Starters range from 15,000, and main courses range between 50,000 and 55,000 AA.

Feony Ala: This place in the rainforests is ideal for tasting local cuisine. Romazava, a dish where indigenous herbs are stewed with meat, is unique to the island. I couldn’t get enough of the flavors. The indispensable rice has a bit of a Far Eastern touch, and we opted for a vegetable and Cantonese-style preparation. The view is also fantastic.

Les Trois Metis: The menus are in French, and the staff doesn’t speak English, but if you manage to place orders from the extensive list, the flavors are incredible. We opted for vegetable ravioli, squid cooked with herbs, and pork stew. We were very satisfied. The ravioli cost 22,000, and our main courses were between 340,000 and 38,000 AR. On the return journey, we stayed at the same hotel. The ravioli was still fantastic, but the zebu meats were dried and did not satisfy us.