LISBON-PORTO

Lisbon, with its seven hills, reminiscent of the Golden Horn, its Rio Tejo resembling the Bosphorus, and a bridge resembling our Bosphorus Bridge, is a city reminiscent of Istanbul. Unlike other European cities, the old town is preserved as it is, making it a sunny, calm, and pleasant capital. The statue of Christ, Cristo Rey, with its outstretched arms on the opposite shore, is said to be identical to the one in Rio. Since the country did not enter World War II, the statue was erected on a dominant hill in the city as a protector. Lisbon, which experienced an earthquake in 1877, was rebuilt in 1966 during the Salazar era. The Salazar Bridge, now known as the 25th of April Bridge, was also built during that time. In fact, the 25th of April Bridge looks more like the one in San Francisco than the one in Istanbul.

Lisbon is not one of the main tourist destinations in Europe, which is an advantage as it avoids large crowds of tourists. It doesn’t have a single significant monument like the Eiffel Tower or the Colosseum. However, getting lost in the interesting structures of Alfama and Graça streets, listening to Fado music, enjoying their fine wines, visiting the westernmost point of the European continent (The end of the world!), exploring fairy-tale castles, and most importantly, getting to know the warm and tourist-friendly Portuguese people should definitely be on the list of every traveler.

As soon as the plane landed, the statue of Christ, the Tejo River, and the Vasco de Gama Bridge welcomed us. Lisbon Airport is quite small but spacious and well-organized. We used the metro to get from the airport to the city center. At the entrance, we bought a paper card for 0.50€ from the ticket machines. Then we evaluated ticket options. There were options like one-way for 1.25€, round trip for 2.50€, and a 24-hour pass for 6.00€. Thinking that we could use this ticket later for buses, metro, trams, and the historic Santa Justa elevator leading to Bairro Alto, we purchased a 24-hour pass (for the current rates, check http://www.carris.pt/). Our hotel, Hotel Travel Park Lisboa, is right outside the Anjos metro station. It’s modest, very central, and received the ‘excellence award’ in 2013. We were at the hotel around noon, left our belongings, and went to Belem for a half-day program.

DAY 1-BELEM

We hopped on tram number 15 from Comercio Square, where we arrived by metro, and headed to Belem. Belem’s pronunciation is a bit tricky. When you pronounce the é (eyyy), and (n) instead of m, it sounds like Beleyyyn. If you ask for Belem, the locals just stare blankly. We got off the tram in front of the late Gothic-style Jeronimos Monastery, one of the Belem structures on the UNESCO World Heritage list. This magnificent and impressive building was commissioned by Manuel I in 1495 and is known as Manueline style (he was quite stylish). The construction used white sand and stones brought by Vasco de Gama from India and gold from the colonies. It took 150 years to build, and the money earned from the spice route was used for funding. All sailors used to pray here before their journeys. Inside, Vasco de Gama’s tomb is immediately to the right as you enter the door. The tomb of ‘Luis Camoes,’ who was always with him during his travels, is right across from it (their paths have converged here as well). The tomb of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal’s greatest poet, is also inside the church. The interior of the church is quite magnificent.

Afterward, we carried out the most important activity of the day. We went to ‘Pasteis de Belem’ right next to the monastery, to eat Belem tart or Nata, the most famous dessert in Portugal. The bakery is 100 meters away from the church. In the 1830s, the monks, to clarify their wines from sediment, started using egg whites, and later, with the egg yolks that accumulated in their hands, began making this dessert. Although quite crowded, the reward for those who persist is these delicious pastries made from a slightly soft puff pastry filled in cup-shaped containers, baked, and caramelized on top. They have a delightful taste that lingers on your palate, and you won’t find this flavor anywhere else in Portugal or anywhere else in the world. The inside of the bakery is covered with ceramic panels displaying its history. These ceramics are one of the most important elements of Portuguese architecture. You won’t get enough of admiring and photographing these colorful ceramics they use inside and outside the buildings.

We enjoyed our desserts and recharged our energy. Our next destination was the Belem Tower and the Monument to the Discoveries, both of which are also listed on the UNESCO World Heritage site and rise from the water. To reach the tower, we crossed over to the seaside and, through a very pleasant walk in the park, reached the tower. Captains would learn their missions and destinations by obtaining a written petition from here before setting sail—an all-in-one process: pray in the monastery, get the petition from the tower, and off you go! Vasco de Gama also set sail from here in 1498, reaching India. Originally on land, the tower shifted to about 200 meters into the sea during the 1755 earthquake. In the lower part of the tower, there are dungeons built by Manuel I where criminals sentenced to death were held. The ticket costs 13€ and allows you to explore both the interior and the lower dungeons.

Right near the tower is the Monument of the Discoveries or Padrão dos Descobrimentos. It’s possible to go up with an elevator, and this is where you can see the statue of Jesus. Moreover, from a height of 50 meters, you can have a different perspective of Lisbon and Belem. The monument was erected in 1960 in honor of Henry the Navigator. In addition to the main statue of Henry the Navigator, holding a model of a carrack, on either side of the ramps of the monument are a total of 33 figures from the history of the Discoveries, including Vasco de Gama. These figures of scientists, writers, clergy, soldiers, and painters of the monument, symbolize “we bring civilization”. Continuing past the monument, we reached the Maritime Museum. And the planetarium. Just across the street is the Belem Cultural Center, Portugal’s largest indoor cultural space. Inside, the Berardo Contemporary Art Museum can also be visited if desired.

For dinner, our choice was Cantinho Lusitano, ranked 6th among 2094 restaurants on TripAdvisor, but it’s essential to make a reservation. The place is quite small and casual. If you’re looking for a more upscale option, de Castro Restaurant in the nearby square is also an excellent alternative. These two places are a bit far from the hotel, but since taxis in Lisbon are very inexpensive, they can be preferred.

DAY 2-LISBON

After a good sleep and a healthy breakfast, we started our city tour energetically. We took the metro to Comercio Square, which opens to the Rio Tejo River. Before the earthquake, this place used to be the location of a large palace. Rio Tajo is the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, originating in Spain and flowing into the Atlantic Ocean in Portugal. The total length of the river is 1,038 kilometers, with 716 km in Spanish territory, 275 km in Portuguese territory, and 47 km forming the border between Spain and Portugal. We entered through a massive arch (Arco da Rua Agusta) towards the square. Rua Augusta is a car-free shopping street, the main shopping street of Lisbon. After entering Rua Agusto, on the right, you can visit MUDE, the Museum of Design and Fashion. The ground floor features permanent collections that serve as a history lesson in 20th-century art and fashion. Temporary exhibitions are located on the upper floors, and admission is free!

We continued along the street and used the historic Santa Justa elevator to get to Barrio Alto (we had purchased our 24-hour ticket yesterday). This elevator, made by Gustave Eiffel, who also commissioned the construction of the Eiffel Tower, is one of the first examples of the use of iron and steel in architecture.

When you exit the elevator, a small café welcomes you, but it’s advisable to continue and aim for A Bresileira café, one of Lisbon’s most important cafés. You can take a souvenir photo imitating Fernando Pessoa’s seated pose in bronze at the entrance. Afterwards, turning back to Rua Augusta and walking towards Alfama and Graça, we set out on our way. Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. Exploring this neighborhood on foot is a must because you need to discover the labyrinthine narrow streets that neither cars nor trams can enter. Alfama’s streets are also known as the birthplace of melancholic Fado songs. Fado, derived from Latin and coming from the word fatum, meaning fate, is a mix of tango and flamenco. During the Age of Discoveries, wives whose husbands went on long sea voyages and did not return would lament their loss. Since then, out of respect, all ships have a black stripe. Singers (fadistas) express all their emotions in the lyrics—longings, loves, unforgettable memories. The black shawl used by fadistas while singing is a way of expressing their emotions and melancholy. The most famous fadista, Amalia Rodruguez, Portugal’s voice, was discovered while selling fruit on the street and took the stage at a young age. Her most famous saying is, “I’m not singing fado; it’s singing within me.”

On the way, you can climb to Sao Jorge Castle by taking tram number 12 from the Largo Portas do Sol Square. We preferred to climb on foot. The entrance to the castle is 6€ per person. You can climb to the castle on the highest of the city’s seven hills to enjoy the view and take photos. Cherry liqueur is a traditional flavor that must be tasted in Portugal. In the shop at the castle entrance, we tasted cherry liqueur (Ginjinha) served in small chocolate cups, and it was the best among all we tasted throughout the trip. First we take a little sip from the Ginjinha liqueur, then throw the whole cup into our mouths.

After Alfama, we arrived in Graça. This area is also an old neighborhood like Alfama. There are two wonderful places called Miradouro, meaning a viewpoint terrace, in Graça. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is at a high point and has a beautiful view better than the castle. The other, Convento da Graça, has a cafe. While wandering in Alfama and Graça, the most important feature you shouldn’t miss is Azulejos, the handmade ceramics on the building facades, as mentioned before. Almost all Azulejos are original, at least a hundred years old, and most of them are geometric but occasionally have figurative patterns. The origin of geometric patterns dates to the two hundred years of Islamic rule in Lisbon. It’s like bringing a touch of home with the decorations in Turkish mosques. You can visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, the tile museum, where the building is in an old monastery, and there is a panoramic tile depicting Lisbon on the upper floor. Or you can create your own collection by wandering through the narrow streets.

Although we didn’t visit, there’s an interesting museum in Lisbon called the Gulbenkian Museum. Gulbenkian, born in Üsküdar, Istanbul, was an Armenian who discovered oil fields in certain regions of the Ottoman Empire and was also the founder of BP. The museum’s collection is said to be quite rich.

Completing the walking tour, when we reached Figueira Square, we turned to the other end of Rua Agusto. The Baixa neighborhood, where Agusto Avenue is located, is the only planned area in the city with a grid plan. The reason for this is the complete destruction of this area in the great earthquake of the 18th century, and it was rebuilt from scratch. We had made a reservation for dinner at a small family-run restaurant called Sr. Fado de Alfama. In this restaurant, the husband and wife work together. While the woman personally prepares the meals in the kitchen, her husband serves them with great sincerity. After serving the meals, they tidy up the tables and, with their musician friends, sing live Fado without a microphone. We had a very enjoyable evening with delicious food, wonderful music, and a warm conversation atmosphere created by the owners, and the night was perfect.

DAY 3-SİNTRA

Today, we dedicated to spend our time with exploring the surroundings of Lisbon. Our first stop was Sintra, located 25 km from Lisbon, and it’s a magnificent place with palaces belonging to Portuguese kings from the Middle Ages to the present day, making it a tourist destination that can be visited all year round. The palaces include Palacio Nacional de Pena, Vila de Sintra, Palacio Nacional de Sintra, and Palacio Nacional de Queluz. All these palaces are quite large, and you should allocate at least an hour to visit each, along with their magnificent gardens.

If you have a whole day or half a day, you’ll have enough time to explore one or two of these palaces. Palacio Pena situated on the top of Lua Mountain, is a must-visit. Since the tour is intense, we left Lisbon at 8 am. You can take a train from Rossio Square or Entre Campos station (Yellow Metro Line) to Sintra (the train always passes through Linha 2 – the 2nd line). The journey takes about 45 minutes. After getting off the train, we took bus 434 (Sintra-Palacio Pena-Sintra) to go to Palacio Pena. The transfer from the ticket booth to the palace gate costs €2 for a round trip, and the bus runs every 15 minutes.

Palace of Pena was commissioned by Queen Dona Maria II (1813-53), who lived in the palace from 1826-28 and 1834-53. During her second period of reign, she shared the palace with King Fernando II. King Fernando II was the one who arranged the palace’s gardens. When we saw the palace, we couldn’t believe our eyes; it was like our minds were wandering between the castle where Snow White was born and the castle where Sleeping Beauty lay in eternal sleep. There was a magnificent palace in front of us, colorful, patterned, and with towers, as if taken from fairy tale books. The rooms are exceptionally well-preserved architecturally. Ebony and walnut furniture, carpets with different colors and patterns, and all textiles seem as vibrant as on the first day. I can’t find words to describe the beauty of the porcelain, silverware, and stained glass. The comfort in the bathrooms of the king and queen surprises even in today’s technological context.

Spanish-Arab architectural styles are immediately noticeable in the ceiling decorations and arches. The magnificent table in the dining room seems to have been prepared as if the king and queen were about to come for a meal. Replicas of porcelain with royal arms on the table can be found in the museum store. The Queen’s Terrace is ideal for observing Sintra, and the sundial on the terrace should not be missed. Additionally, the ambassador’s hall, tile hall, chapel, kitchen, and kitchen utensils are among the main sections to explore. Each room is meticulously furnished. Photography without flash is allowed (entrance fee €6, Pena Palace + Mouros Castle = €14). The palace garden satisfied our hunger for scenery, and the walk allowed us to take in plenty of oxygen and synthesize vitamin D. After the palace, we strolled around Sintra, tasted ginjinha liqueur served in a chocolate cup, and unexpectedly encountered a flea market, providing an opportunity for affordable shopping as we carefully inspected the stalls.

We left behind the fairytale land of Sintra and set off towards our second destination, Cabo Da Roca, in a taxi we negotiated. The journey from Sintra took about 30 minutes. Cabo Da Roca marks the westernmost point of the European continent, in other words, the end of the world! There was a sign here with coordinates and a large cross on top.

In the evening, we returned to Lisbon by train and went to Grapes and Bites for the most enjoyable meal of the trip, for which we had made a reservation in advance. Our wine, Quinto do Carmo, accompanied a delightful start to the meal with delicious Portuguese cheeses and meats, followed by fantastic tapas.

DAY 4-PORTO

Today, we spent the day in Porto. Porto is situated around the Douro River, which flows into the ocean. The main city is located on the north bank of the river, while the southern region is named Vila Nova de Gaia. There are six bridges connecting these two banks. The city has been recognized as a historic city by UNESCO. We traveled to Porto by train, using the green line first (towards Telherias) to Alameda, then transferring to the red line towards Aeroporto to reach Oriente. The station, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, is quite fascinating. The steel structure resembling cathedral roofs covering the platforms and the main supporting structure made of raw concrete are like individual works of art. We bought round-trip tickets from the ticket counter for the Porto train. By the way, ida means departure, volta means return, and carr vagon means seat in the car – it’s not written in English, don’t search for it. We arrived at Campanha station in Porto in about 3 hours. It takes about 10 minutes to walk to the center from here, but there is a one-stop distance to the main station (S. Bento, i.e., the center) by metro/train.

The first bridge over the Douro River is Ponte da Arrábida, and the second bridge is Ponte da Luiz.1, where Gustave Eiffel did an excellent job. In the area around the bridge, there are restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops on both sides. On the opposite bank, the Gaia side, you’ll find the sales outlets of major wine companies as well.

We enjoyed a pleasant stroll along the riverbank, soaking in the atmosphere. Later, we returned to the Ponte da Luiz bridge for our lunch. A group of young people had gathered on the bridge, singing songs and taking turns jumping into the river.

For lunch, we chose the restaurant Don Tohno located right above the bridge. This place is highly recommended. We completed our lunch, which started with cheese and charcuterie on our magnificent table with a view of the river, with an octopus salad and a seafood stew cooked in plenty of tomato juice, accompanied by the delightful flavor of Carvalhais-Duque di Viseu-2009.

Moving inland from the coast, our first stop was Porto Cathedral (Se Cathedral). Its exterior is quite simple, but the interior is quite ornate. Walking uphill, we reached the famous São Bento Train Station. It’s a relatively small station, but it attracts excessive attention from tourists. The entrance part of the train station resembles a gallery covered in blue tiles. The building, which was used as a monastery in the 16th century, suffered a major fire and was later restructured into a train station. The nostalgic structure, both in its external appearance and with Portuguese-specific azulejos ceramic panels depicting the country’s history, takes you on a journey through time. We then continued our way up to Lello on Carmelitas Street, a 100-year-old bookstore. The Gothic design of this two-story store, especially the staircase leading to the upper floor and the wooden craftsmanship, is enchanting. The bookstore allows photography inside, and they are even happy when visitors take photos (Rua das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto).

Vista Alegre porcelain in Porto is highly recommended for enthusiasts, hosting products that every Portuguese woman dreams of and young brides desire to have in their trousseaus. The products are truly magnificent! Another world-renowned product in Porto is Port wine. While the alcohol content in standard wines is around 11-12%, the alcohol content of Port wine is 20%. Therefore, Port wine is not consumed as a table wine. Usually, the white variety is consumed as an aperitif before meals, and the red variety is consumed as a digestif after meals. Since brandy is added during fermentation, Port wines have a higher alcohol content and are sweeter. The Tawny type is the highest in alcohol and is preferred after meals. Ruby is a lighter and sweeter wine for easier consumption. On the opposite bank of the river in the Gaia region, there are large stores where major wine producers offer tours and sales, but these can be quite touristy. I would recommend Caves Messias in the Vitoria area. It’s a boutique wine shop with very attentive and knowledgeable owners. You get the opportunity to taste different wines, and you can buy superb wines at very reasonable prices.

Santa Catarina Street and Bolhao Market on Sa da Bandeira Street are other places worth visiting. Although I didn’t have the chance to go, you can stop at the Moscavide Station on the red line when going to the airport to see the Vasco da Gama Bridge, which is the longest in Europe at 17 km, and the Vasco da Gama Tower. A section of the Vasco da Gama Bridge is a suspension bridge to allow boats to pass underneath, while other parts are directly supported.