JAPAN-1

It was a colorful dream of mine to go to Japan during the cherry blossom season. Japan has always fascinated me with its unique architecture adorned with delicate pink cherry blossoms and its culture that commands respect. We had only 8 days, but sources say that even a year wouldn’t be enough to explore this entirely different country from north to south. The consensus is that everyone falls in love with this country at first sight. I, too, believed I should go, see, taste, touch, smell, and make my own decision.

In my first article about Japan, I will share the part of my journey covering Kyoto, Miyajima, and Hiroshima. The second article will focus on Nara, Hakone, and Tokyo, providing more richness in terms of history and visuals.

You can access my second article about Japan here.

http://www.gezginbilgin.net/index.php/en/2024/01/24/japan-2

Survival without knowing Japanese in Japan is unfortunately not very easy. The rate of English proficiency is quite low, and even those who speak it do so with such a strong accent that understanding becomes challenging. The use of English on directional signs is limited, but on the metro, announcements are made in both Japanese and English, making it easy to follow the stops.

The ideal time to visit Japan is during the sakura season, which is the end of March and the beginning of April for about 2-3 weeks. During this period, Japan becomes like a pink and white bride. Sakura, a Japanese word meaning “cherry blossom,” refers to more than 200 varieties of cherry trees that do not bear fruit. Sakura has a special meaning in Japanese culture. The flowers bloom slowly but fall off quickly. It heralds the beginning of life, spring, and signifies the inevitability of the end. The Japanese believe that the blossoms represent the fleeting nature of life, as they fall from the branches even before they wither. The period of sakura is the most expensive time to visit Japan. For a more budget-friendly option, the period until mid-June or from mid-October to mid-November can be considered. If you go during the period from mid-October to mid-November, you will encounter a wonderful autumn season with various shades of orange.

The predominant religions in the country are Shintoism and Buddhism. Shintoism, a native and ancient religion unique to Japan, means “the way of the gods” and emphasizes both worship of ancestral spirits and harmony with the natural world. According to Japanese belief, there are over 8 million gods, but nature and the spirits of ancestors are considered superior. They have great respect for nature as they believe that the spirits reside in it. They believe that everything, including stones, soil, and water, has a spirit. They value the present life more than the afterlife. The essence of Shintoism is based on the principles of goodness, and when Japanese people do good, it is a form of worship.

Buddhism, on the other hand, is a spiritual enlightenment and salvation doctrine that spread from the Asian continent to Japan in the 6th century. Although it initially emerged from India, Buddhism is widespread in Southeast Asian countries. Zen Buddhism, prevalent in Japan, is a philosophy focused on meditation, wisdom, self-discovery, eliminating unnecessary thoughts, and self-renewal. In temples and gardens adorned with this philosophy, priests pass down these teachings to future generations.

Japan has a population of approximately 130 million, but its land area is only half the size of our country, resulting in a higher population density compared to ours. About 70% of the country is covered by mountains. Japan experiences over 1,500 earthquakes annually, along with numerous typhoons and storms hitting the country every year. Additionally, there are 200 volcanoes in the country.

The history of human habitation in Japan is believed to date back to the 1st century AD. The first government was established in Nara in the 8th century, followed by another government in Kyoto. Japan, consisting of 6,852 islands, derives its name from kanji characters that mean ‘sun’ and ‘origin’. Hence, it is referred to as the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’. It shares borders with South Korea to the north and China to the west. The country is governed by a parliamentary monarchy and boasts the world’s third-largest economy.

Japan’s historical significance is underscored by the events of World War II, particularly the dropping of atomic bombs on the cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, resulting in the loss of lives, hopes, and a whole nation. Following this period, the ambition and discipline inherent in their genes were further strengthened by the lessons learned from the war. They rebuilt factories with outdated technology, establishing new facilities with more advanced features and modern technologies. During this reconstruction process, both the government and the private sector worked together, with support from the United States. They did not solely focus on industry and manufacturing but also ensured the parallel modernization of education. This commitment led to the world’s highest literacy rate (almost 100%) and education standards, facilitating the harmonious progression of technology. Approximately 12% of the national budget is allocated to education. Schools are disciplined and well-planned, impacting both educational and professional life. Teachers and students still clean classrooms and cafeterias together, fostering a sense of discipline and teamwork. The purpose is to instill a continuous sense of discipline and the ability to work together with teammates. This ensures the reinforcement of a sense of responsibility and consciousness, as individuals learn to bear the consequences of their actions on their own. These early-established concepts of responsibility and consciousness contribute to the meticulous and diligent management of their careers in line with this cultural and educational framework.

The Japanese language has four separate alphabets, totaling 2,928 characters or even more. They appreciate being addressed in their own language. So, you might want to say a few things in their language to these wonderful people.

Ohayo=good morning
Konbanwa=good evening
Konichiwa=hello
Sayonara=goodbye
Ogenki desu ka=how are you?
Genki desu= I’m fine
Hai=yes
İe=no
Arigatou= thank you

DAY 1-ARRIVAL IN JAPAN

Both Turkish Airlines (THY) and Asiana Airlines offer reciprocal flights between Istanbul and Tokyo. For the sake of the travel dynamics, it’s more convenient to start from Kyoto and end in Tokyo. Therefore, we flew to Osaka with a layover in Seoul and arrived in Kyoto after a 1.5-hour drive. Kyoto, located just 30 minutes by high-speed train from Osaka, is, in fact, a district of Osaka. You can also reach Kyoto from Tokyo by Shinkansen, the high-speed train, in 2.5 hours.

Our guide, Mrs. Pembe, chose the Shin (New) Miyako Hotel in Kyoto for our accommodation. Since the hotel is right across the station, we easily reached the places we would visit in the following days, feeling like a part of life in Japan.

DAY 2-KYOTO

Kyoto, located in the Kansai region of Japan, served as the imperial capital for over 1100 years before Tokyo. Known as the cultural capital of the country, the name Kyoto translates to ‘the capital of capitals’ in Japanese. The city, acclaimed as the best in the world, managed to preserve its status as Japan’s most historic city by remaining untouched by atomic bombs (the US administration canceled plans for atomic bombing and air bombardment after witnessing the enchanting historical beauty of the city). With 400 Shinto shrines and 2600 Buddhist temples, Kyoto welcomes travelers with all its grandeur and beauty.

One of the most delightful activities of our trip was starting the day by wearing kimonos. It was an incredibly unique experience filled with colorful moments and interesting dialogues. Kimono, the traditional attire of the Japanese, holds special meanings. Married women wear long-sleeved kimonos, while unmarried women wear short-sleeved ones. When Japanese girls turn twenty, they participate in a special celebration ceremony within their families where they wear kimonos. First, we chose kimonos that appealed to our hearts from the colorful world of kimonos. Wearing a kimono is a quite intricate process. I don’t know how they manage to do it on their own, but we had special dressers. First, white poplin undergarments are worn. These five-layered undergarments, covering different parts of the body, snugly embrace and tie you tightly. Then, a colorful top called haori is worn. On top of this, a 25 cm wide plastic piece is placed to cover your chest and front body, and a belt is tightened over it. The ensemble is completed with toe-socks worn with traditional sandals and a flower ornament in your hair. From this moment on, you transform into one of the Japanese women with a kimono, taking small, elegant steps with their tight skirts and maintaining a dignified posture.

In Kyoto, where many structures and temples are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, our first destination was the famous Buddhist temple overlooking the city, Kiyomizudera. Because we explored it in our kimonos, it was quite a unique experience, and we even became the center of attention for tourists, posing for numerous photos. Established in 780 next to the Otowa Waterfall, Kiyomizudera Temple was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994. The wide wooden balcony in front of the main temple offers a magnificent view of the valley adorned with cherry blossoms, and at the end, you can see the city of Kyoto. The Jishu Temple behind the main temple is dedicated to love. If you can walk from one stone to another, placed 18 meters apart, with your eyes closed, it is believed that you will have a chance to find the love of your life. The Otowa Waterfall is located just below the main temple, flowing in three separate streams; it is believed that the first stream brings long life, the second academic success, and the third, love. You can drink water from one of these three streams using long-handled bamboo cups. If you drink from all three, it is decided that you are greedy and gluttonous. Other important structures in the complex include temples dedicated to Shaka Buddha and Amida Buddha, an altar with 200 small Jizo statues protecting travelers and children, a three-story Koyasu Pagoda believed to ensure easy childbirth for pregnant visitors, and the Zuigudo Residence dedicated to Buddha’s mother. At the entrances of the temples, you can have your wishes written in Japanese for a small fee and hang them on wish trees. Additionally, there is a custom to drink water and wash hands from the bamboo ladles at the fountains at the entrances of the temples. The Higashiyama District, where Kiyomizudera is located, is a vibrant area for both sightseeing and shopping.

After spending 2 hours at Kiyomizudera and the Higashiyama district, we took off our kimonos. For lunch, we tasted traditional Japanese flavors on a low table prepared in Japanese style. Inkfish, eggplant, various pickles, vegetables we had never tasted before, ramen, and rice were on the menu. For dessert, we enjoyed matcha-flavored ice cream. I have always loved Japanese cuisine.

Our next destination was Nijo Castle. In Japan, it’s common to enter many buildings, including temples, without shoes. Therefore, it’s advisable to wear comfortable sports shoes that you can easily put on and take off and wear socks that won’t make your feet cold. Nijo Castle, completed in 1603, was the residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. It was used as an imperial palace for a period but is now open to the public. Recognized as one of the best architectural examples of the Japanese feudal era, the castle has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1994. The castle consists of three parts: the main defense line (Honmaru), the secondary defense line (Ninomaru), and the surrounding gardens. We passed through the large gate on the eastern side, facing the lake, and then reached Ninomaru through the Chinese-style Karamon gate. The Ninomaru Palace was built for the shogun’s residence, consisting of several interconnected buildings connected by corridors. The corridors were called “nightingale floors” because they were said to chirp when someone walked on them as a security measure, but the guide explained that this was not true and that the connections in the floor had loosened over time. The paintings in the rooms of the palace dazzle with their beauty. Each room has a different meaning and matching paintings. Photography is not allowed inside the palace, so these magnificent beauties are only etched in our memories. Outside Ninomaru Palace, there is a traditional Japanese garden and a lake. The Honmaru Palace experienced a large fire in the 18th century and was rebuilt. It is not always open to the public as it is still in imperial use, but the gardens can be explored. Both Honmaru and Ninomaru Gardens have nearly 400 cherry trees, creating a stunning visual during the Sakura season. In the second half of November, when the garden is adorned with maple trees, ginkgo trees, and other trees in autumn colors, a different atmosphere is said to be created.

The third destination of the day was Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion). Located in the north of Kyoto and considered the symbol of Kyoto, the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji, is often regarded as Japan’s most beautiful temple. Beautiful in every season and surrounded by a magnificent garden, this temple is a masterpiece for photographers with its golden-plated roof and walls. The last two floors of this Zen temple, where Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu spent his retirement, are entirely covered in gold, and stand on a large lake. The current structure, which has been burned and damaged several times, dates to 1955. Each floor has a different architectural style; the first floor is in the Shinden style with natural wood flooring and historic Buddha statues, the second floor is in the Bukke style with king statues, and the third and final floor is in the Chinese style with a golden phoenix. After seeing the temple from across the lake, we followed the walking path to the back of the temple and explored its gardens.

Very close to the Golden Pavilion, Ryōan-Ji Temple offers the opportunity to see one of the most beautiful examples of Zen Gardens. Originally an aristocratic villa from the Heian Period, it was converted into a temple belonging to the Myoshinji school of Zen Buddhism in 1450. The beauty of the rock garden, consisting of 15 rocks arranged among gravel, is legendary. An interesting feature of the garden’s design is that no matter from which angle you look, at least one rock is always hidden from the viewer. It is believed that if you can see all 15 rocks in the garden at the same time, you have achieved Nirvana. The exact meaning of the garden is not fully understood. Some say it represents a tiger carrying its cub between islands, while others interpret it as an abstract representation of infinity. The garden exudes a different kind of tranquility, making you feel that your emotions are purified, and your spirit is refreshed. The garden can be observed from the head priest Hojo’s residence, which also features numerous paintings, sliding doors in tatami rooms (fusuma), and several small gardens around.

We spent our evening in the Gion district, where traditional wooden houses are still preserved. Gion is a captivating area located right by the river, featuring enchanting narrow streets and wonderfully designed Japanese restaurants. It is also famous for its Geishas. Geisha translates to “person of the arts” and refers to someone who lives off art. Geisha training begins at the age of 12 and involves an intense educational process focused on art, music, and dance. There is a hierarchy among them, with the most senior being called geisha, mainly found in the Tokyo region. Following them are maiko and geiko. Men can also become geishas, referred to as “otoko geisha.” They are required to constantly wear kimonos. While exploring the Gion district, we spotted a maiko. You can discern the houses where the maikos receive training and the number of maikos in each house from the symbols on the doors.

The Chion-in Temple was magnificent with its night lighting. The temple was originally built in 1234, but its current structure dates to the 17th century due to earthquakes and fires it has endured. An important portion of Tom Cruise’s film “The Last Samurai” was shot here.

For our dinner, we tasted a variety of local flavors. The tempuras are non-greasy and delightfully crispy. Dipping them in macha is an irresistible treat. The sashimi, featuring the freshest fish and other seafood, is so flavorful that there’s no need to cook them and dull their taste. Vegetables, especially the lotus flower, are exceptionally tasty. The rice is cooked right in front of you in the seafood broth. Similarly, your ‘wagyu’ beef comes on a hot stone, allowing you to adjust the cooking degree to your liking. And of course, for dessert, the indispensable ‘mochi’.

The illuminated streets of Kyoto in the rain were quite beautiful after dinner.

On our way back to Kyoto from Nara, we visited Ginkakuji Temple (Silver Pavilion) when we had some time. Built in 1482 by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, it was inspired by his grandfather’s Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion) and transformed into a Zen temple in 1490 after the shogun’s death. Its garden designs, tea ceremonies, flower arrangements, ceramic work, and architecture greatly influenced its era. The beauty of the sand gardens, known as the ‘Sea of Silver Sand,’ is legendary. Despite its name, the temple was never covered in silver. It is said that the name was given in reference to the Golden Pavilion. Another interpretation is that the dark lacquered main building shines like silver in the moonlight.

The Philosopher’s Path runs right alongside the temple. This famous 2 km-long path, flanked by cherry blossom trees, was reportedly used by the renowned philosopher Nishida Kitaro for meditation. On one side of the path, you’ll find architecturally interesting houses, while the other side is lined with art studios, art galleries, and shops selling vintage items.

If you have time, you can visit the Arashiyama Area. It is famous for the Bamboo Grove and the magnificent path that runs through it. If you’ve made it this far, be sure to visit Ōkōchi Sansō, the former home of the famous Japanese film star Denjirō Ōkōchi, who lived here in the 1930s. Today, the house is used as a museum and provides a unique experience with its incredible gardens, views, and tranquility, quite different from the mansions and palaces you might see in Europe or America.

Fushimi-Inari Shrine is renowned for its thousands of torii gates lined up in succession. Although Kyoto may seem like a small city, the distances between temples are quite long, so it’s wise to follow a rational route. While there is a metro line, it’s not as developed as in Tokyo, as Kyoto is a city rich in history. Despite being one of the most technologically advanced countries, Japan surprisingly lacks widespread public free internet and Wi-Fi access.

DAY 3-MIYAJIMA AND HIROSHIMA

After breakfast, we took a bullet train to Osaka. There, we changed trains, first heading to Hiroshima and then taking a ferry to Miyajima Island. The island greeted us from the pier, accompanied by its sacred deer and a pink-and-white cherry blossom spectacle.

Miyajima Island promises one of the most beautiful sights you can see in the entire country, and the most captivating is undoubtedly Japan’s iconic Floating Torii. This famous Shinto Shrine Gate, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands in the middle of the sea with all its magnificence, welcoming travelers as they approach the island. The grand Torii, a symbol of Miyajima, is considered the boundary between the spiritual and human worlds. It stands at a height of 16.6 meters, defying the years not by being anchored to the seabed, but rather by its own weight. It is supported by six pillars, each filled with seven-ton stones, and its connection points reinforced with handmade special wedges that absorb shocks. Additionally, the structure is fortified against sea level by pine stakes at the junction of the pillars and roof, and a foundation stone. The gate’s vermilion color is believed to ward off evil spirits. Both Floating Torii and the Itsukushima Shrine to which it belongs are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There was a temple in the same location in the 6th century, but the current shrine dates to the mid-16th century.

Additionally, an ancient Shinto Shrine and a 5-story Pagoda are also quite fascinating.

We also tasted the essential large Pacific oyster, Kai. I have always enjoyed Pacific oysters, and the large size of Kai was quite flavorful. They are briefly grilled before serving and presented with a special tangy sauce.

Later, we returned to Hiroshima. For lunch, we had a dish known as okonomiyaki, often described as Japanese pizza. These Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki are made on hotplates called teppanyaki and can be based on either noodles or udon, with plenty of soybean sprouts, eggs, and a variety of vegetables and meats according to preference. They were delicious. After the meal, we spent the rest of our time exploring Hiroshima.

Hiroshima, the city where the world’s first atomic bomb was dropped, houses museums that evoke deep emotions, leaving one with a heavy heart. The city, devastated by the atomic bomb, has risen from the ashes in the past 70 years. Today, with over a million residents, Hiroshima boasts stores, universities, colossal shopping arcades, and pristine rivers. It’s remarkable how a place once deemed lifeless after the atomic bomb now flourishes.

You can reach Hiroshima from Osaka by Shinkansen trains in just 90 minutes. Among the city’s notable places to visit, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum stands out as the most significant. The bomb exploded over 600 meters above the city, reaching a temperature of 4000°C instantly. The model of the explosion point, and the symbolic structures left in the city is very impressive. It is known that 70,000 people died immediately, with the number rising to 200,000 in the following years. Those who survived and were affected by the blast are called hibakusha, meaning explosion affected. There are still thousands of hibakusha, as it is said. The museum displays photographs depicting the impact of the explosion, along with remaining clothes, watches, notes—basically, many items that serve as a lesson. It’s moving and distressing. Seeing how little children burned, witnessing people of all ages abandoned to death for nothing, realizing how innocent lives perished, you can’t help but be moved by the individual stories portrayed in the photographs. It makes you despise war, the wretchedness it brings. After the atomic bomb explosion, one of the 10-15 buildings that remained, the once grand exhibition hall belonging to the governorship, known as the ‘Atomic Bomb Dome’, is another stop worth visiting.

The area around the museum is the ‘Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park’. Inside the park, there’s the heartbreaking story of the Children’s Peace Monument: Sadako Sasaki, who was two years old, developed leukemia 10 years after the explosion due to exposure to radiation. When her friend visited her in the hospital, she brought square pieces of paper for Sadako to make origami. These origamis carry significance in Japanese culture. Sadako began folding cranes. The crane symbolizes good health and longevity; if one folds 1,000 cranes, a wish will come true. However, Sadako could only complete 644 cranes. Her friends finished the rest, and Sadako was buried with the origamis. This monument symbolizes peace worldwide. Origamis sent by children from all over the world are displayed around this monument. Along the same axis in the park, you can see the memorial, the eternal flame in memory of the deceased, and the remains of the destroyed theater building, all of which deeply touch the heart.

If you’re wondering why the city is so green, after the atomic bomb, a typhoon occurred. As a result, the city was completely washed and cleaned. After a short while, seeds sprouted, and the city began to turn green.

For our dinner in Hiroshima, we had wagyu. Wagyu and its special type, Kobe beef, are must-try delicacies in Japan. These cattle are raised with classical music playing, minimal movement, and beer consumption to keep them from getting too muscular. Regular massages are also given to prevent the meat from becoming tough. The meat is both tender and marbled with fat.