BRUGGE

Bruges is a tiny romantic city with a magical atmosphere. It feels like time has stood still in the Middle Ages or as if you are inside a movie filmed during that era. With its cobblestone narrow streets, colorful stone houses, magnificent squares, and winding canals, Bruges is like a Gothic jewel. Moreover, it has a warm-hearted population that welcomes hundreds of thousands of tourists with smiles. When you add their delicious chocolates, crispy potato fries, and ice-cold beers to the equation, it becomes an unforgettable experience.

Bruges, the capital of the West Flanders Province in Belgium, used to be the central hub of Belgium during the Middle Ages. The city was founded as a Gallo-Roman settlement on the banks of the Dijver and Reie Rivers, serving as an international trade center due to its geographical location. The first commercial exchange took place here in the 1200s. The name Bruges comes from the word Bruggia, meaning a port or a docking area. In the 15th century, the silting up of the canal that connected the city to the sea isolated Bruges from the world for four centuries. Despite preserving its medieval architecture in all its glory, the city’s ability to maintain its enchantment is also attributed to not suffering from wars, avoiding natural disasters, and preserving its cultural values through restoration work carried out in line with its original structure.

Being one of the most beautiful cities in Northern Europe, Bruges is quite popular among tourists. Three official languages are spoken: English, German, and French. Flemish was also spoken when Dutch sailors were active in Belgium, but it is not as widespread nowadays. The city’s name is pronounced differently in various languages: Bruges in English, Brügge in German, Bruges in French, and Brugge in Flemish. Two films have contributed to the city’s fame: the first, Brugge, die Stille made in 1981, and the second, more popular one, In Bruges released in 2018, starring Colin Farrell, Brenden Gleeson, and Ralph Fiennes. I highly recommend watching the second film before visiting Bruges.

A canal tour is a must for Bruges trips. These tours, conducted with boats, offer a different perspective on the city’s beauty. Exploring the city and its surroundings by renting a bicycle is also possible.

Due to its proximity to the sea, Bruges has a predominantly humid climate. Summers are relatively cool, with an average daily temperature of around 20°C, and nights dropping to 12-14°C. Winters are mild, consistently hovering around 0°C, with nighttime temperatures not going below freezing. While the first months of the year are the driest, the difference between the wettest and driest times of the year is not significant. Since the city is ideal for walking and boat tours, spring and summer are the best times to visit. However, keep in mind that especially in the second half of June, July, and August, there might be a tourist influx. May, the first half of June, September, and October are relatively quieter, with more moderate temperatures.

After flying to Belgium, you can reach Bruges through a 102 km road trip. You can do this by car, or you can go to Brussels Midi Train Station from the airport in 25 minutes and take a 1-hour journey from there. I traveled by train from Paris, which is approximately 300 km away. Another alternative is to reach Bruges via Amsterdam. Bruges train station is 1.5 km away from the city center. There are train services to Brussels (takin 1 hour) and Ghent (taking 20 minutes) every half hour. Additionally, you can take a train to Antwerp (70 minutes), De Panne (1 hour), Knokke (15 minutes), Kortrijk (40 minutes), Ostend (15 minutes), and Zeebrugge (10 minutes).

In Bruges, you can efficiently explore the sights with a 3.5 km walking route. You can determine how much time to spend at each location based on your preferences. During the medieval period, the city of Bruges was surrounded by walls, ditches, and defense towers. Most of the walls were demolished in the 19th century, and today, only four giant gates with ditches remain. Among them, Kruispoort is the most magnificent, resembling a castle on its own. The others are the grand Smedenpoort, Ezelpoort surrounded by many swans, and Gentpoort.

Upon getting off the train or parking your car, you will be greeted by two-story colorful houses and cobblestone streets.

Your first stop should be Burg Square. It has been a place chosen for governance by the Counts of Flanders since the 9th century, making it small but among the most splendid squares in the city. The square hosts important architectural landmarks. One of these is the Bruges City Hall (Stadhuis), completed in 1376. Gothic features have been added to with Renaissance and Neo-Classical elements over different periods. The Gothic council chamber is on the first floor of the building, adorned with magnificent medieval woodwork. Inside, there is a separate room displaying documents and artworks. Entrance is ticketed, but if you use the Musea Brugge Card, you can explore without additional fees.

To the immediate left of the City Hall is the white Brugse Vrije (Liberty of Bruges), formerly used as a courthouse, and it stands as one of the city’s most significant examples of the Renaissance period. The arched passage between these two buildings connects Burg Square to the fish market, Vismarkt. The street’s name is Blinde-Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street). It is particularly recommended to stroll down the street and, especially, view the magnificent arch from the rear.

To the right of the square, the Basilica of the Holy Blood is a significant religious structure for Christians. Dating back to the 12th century, this church houses a piece of cloth believed to bear the blood of Jesus. This relic, brought from Jerusalem during the Second Crusade, is preserved in a crystal vial and displayed to visitors every Friday. The architectural style is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic, with the exterior adorned with statues of the Counts of Flanders. The church is open daily from 09:30 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 17:00. Entrance to the church is free, but the museum section costs €2.5 per person.

Now it’s time to enjoy the canals. As you leave the square and proceed straight, you’ll encounter Rozenhoedkaai (Rosary Quay). This is one of the most romantic spots in Bruges. Rosary Quay, where Groenerei and Dijver canals converge, is one of the most photographed areas in Bruges. The surroundings of this quay, which used to be a hub for salt trade, are lined with old houses and historical buildings. The quay also serves as one of the starting points for canal tours. One of Bruges’ beloved breweries, 2be, is located here.

If you’re feeling hungry, you can take a lunch break at Casa Patata, famous for its delicious fries, with a view of the canal. The origin of fries is still debated, whether it first appeared in Belgium or France, but Bruges is quite confident with its crispy on the outside and soft on the inside fries. Moreover, they serve them not only with ketchup and mayonnaise but also with a variety of sauces. Continuing to walk with the canal on your right, if you turn into the narrow street on the left, you’ll find the peaceful Arentshof Courtyard ahead, followed by the Bonifacius Bridge. This bridge, one of the most picturesque places in Bruges, is located right next to the Gruuthusemuseum. Although it was built in the 20th century, it blends well with the antiquated look of Bruges architecture. According to legend, it is believed that if you cross this bridge, the first person you see on the other side is the one you will marry. Arentshof Courtyard is ideal for escaping the tourist crowds in Bruges and relaxing. The courtyard contains the Arents family home, and this house is now open to visitors as a museum showcasing the works of the painter Frank Brangwyn. He personally donated this extensive collection to Bruges.

Bonifacius Bridge and Arentshof offer a view of the Church of Our Lady (Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk), considered the finest architectural masterpiece showcasing stonemasonry in Bruges. The construction of the church began in 1270 and took a full two centuries to complete, finishing in the 15th century. The exterior of the church is in the Gothic style, while the interior follows the Baroque style.

The Church of Our Lady (Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk) features a chapel built as a private place of worship for the Gruuthuse family in the 1400s, and it has its own museum named after the family. Another notable feature is its 122-meter-high bell tower, making it the tallest point in Bruges. The tower also ranks as the second tallest brick tower in Europe. The church holds significance as the home to Michelangelo’s only sculpture located outside Italy, the Madonna and Child. The statue is distinctive for the smiling expression on Mary’s face, setting it apart from Michelangelo’s other works, and it is often compared to the Pieta in St. Peter’s Basilica. The tombs of Mary of Burgundy and Charles the Bold are also located here. The church is open for visits six days a week from 09:30 to 17:00 (closed on Sundays), and entry is free. However, there is a fee to see the Madonna and Child sculpture, or you can use the Musea Brugge Card.

Walking to the left of the church, you will find St. John’s Hospital (Sint-Janshospitaal Museum) on your right. This institution is one of Europe’s oldest medical facilities.

Established in the 12th century as a hospice where travelers and pilgrims received healthcare and accommodation, the building evolved over time into a hospital where nuns and monks provided services to the needy. St. John’s Hospital served in this capacity until 1978, when it moved to a new location outside the city. Now, it functions as a museum. The hospital, having undergone multiple renovations and additions over the years, presents a medieval façade from the outside, but the interior decoration reveals details of Romanesque, Gothic, and Neo-Classical styles. The magnificent halls with wooden ceilings showcase period medical tools and treatment techniques. Additionally, you can view works by the renowned Flemish artist Hans Memling. The complex includes patient rooms, a chapel, and a church. The museum is open six days a week from 09:00 to 17:30, except on Mondays, and admission is charged, although the Musea Brugge Card is accepted.

It seems like it’s time for a canal tour now. Rozenhoedkaai or the nearby Nepomucenus Bridge (Nepomucenusbrug) are the two well-known starting points for canal cruises. During the tour, as the historical canals wind in front of you, colorful houses, picturesque stone bridges, and graceful white swans gliding on the water accompany you. The Gothic triangular-roofed houses in Brugge are vibrant in colors like canal red, burgundy, brick, yellow, white, green, and when reflected in the water, their beauty is doubled. All canal tour companies follow the same route, and the tour takes approximately 40 minutes. Don’t forget to sit just behind the person operating the boat or the boat driver for the best views and comfortable photo opportunities. Canal tours operate between 10:00 and 18:00.

After the canal tour, it’s essential to indulge in a delicious Belgian waffle from Chez Albert at the entrance of Burg Square. There’s usually a long line, but it’s definitely worth the wait. Another famous feature of Brugge is its lace. With over 80 lace shops scattered throughout the city, those interested in shopping can explore Steenstraat, Geld Montstraat, and Jakobstraat streets, which are significant places for Brugge’s shopping experience.

Our next stop is Markt Square, the heart of the city, serving as the main shopping and business center since 958. This lively square is surrounded by vibrant cafes and colorful buildings. While Brugge predominantly features Gothic architecture from the Middle Ages, you’ll also find Romanesque structures, Baroque and Rococo touches from the Renaissance era, as well as Neo-Gothic works and a small number of examples from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods. In the 14th century, the first seeds of a rebellion against the French King were sown in this square. Although Napoleon’s name was briefly given to the square in the 19th century, it was later reverted to its original name, Grote Markt, meaning Grand Market. The square was historically surrounded by shops used by merchants, but a renovation in 1995 preserved the original character while replacing the shops with restaurants and cafes. The square features a statue of the famous Belgian Jan Breydel.

The most prominent structure on the square is the Belfry of Bruges (Belfort van Brugge), a tower completed in 1240 that stands at a height of 83 meters. Despite several fires, the tower has endured through the centuries. If you’re willing to climb its 366 steps, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the entire city. Along the way, you can observe the incredible clock mechanism and the 47 bells designed to manage city life and alert residents in case of an invasion. Visiting hours are from 09:30 to 18:00, seven days a week, and it’s recommended to purchase tickets in advance. The Musea Brugge Card is accepted for this tour.

Other significant buildings on the square include the Historium Museum (Historium Bruges) and the Provincial Court Building (Provinciaal Hof). The museum provides an unforgettable medieval experience through virtual reality glasses. The visiting hours are from 10:00 to 18:00 every day. Next to the Provincial Court Building is the Bruges Post Office Building, recognizable by its green background and gold lettering spelling Posterijen. These three buildings, Historium, the Provincial Court, and the Bruges Post Office, showcase Gothic architecture from different periods side by side.

According to your preferences, there are several museums you can visit in Bruges:

Chocolate Museum: Choco-Story

In this museum, you can learn about the history and production of chocolate from the Maya-Aztec period to the present day. Tastings are also available. Visiting hours are from 10:00 to 17:00 during the period from January 1 to June 30 and from 10:00 to 18:00 from July 1 to December 31. Admission is charged, there is a student discount, and it is free for children aged 0-6.

Lace Center: Kantcentrum

Originally a retirement home for the elderly in the 15th century, this building has been restored and transformed into a museum for lace, Bruges’ most important industrial production. With the same entrance ticket, you can also visit the Jerusalem Church (Jeruzalemkerk) located nearby. Visiting hours are from 09:30 to 17:30, except on Sundays. Admission is charged, there is a student discount, and it is free for children aged 0-6.

Groeningemuseum

This museum features works from Jan van Eyck’s later period, as well as pieces by Belgian modern artists such as Paul Delvaux’s “Serenity,” Pieter Bruegel, Rene Magritte, Hieronymus Bosch, Hugo Van Der Goes, Marcel Broodthaers, and Hans Memling. The museum is open every day from 09:30 to 17:00, except on Mondays. Entrance is free with the Musea Brugge Card.

Gruuthuse Museum

Located within walking distance of Groeningemuseum, Gruuthuse Museum takes its name from the wealthy Gruuthuse family of Bruges. While the collection includes archaeological artifacts from the Bruges area, it mainly showcases the personal belongings of the Gruuthuse family, including furniture, lace, and ceramic accessories from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The museum is closed on Mondays, and those with the Musea Brugge Card have free admission.

Begijnhof (Ten Wijngaerde): Established in 1245, Begijnhof is a private settlement belonging to Beguines, women who lived in a pious manner and chose not to marry or were widowed. Affiliated with the Catholic Church, these nurse houses are inhabited by women who devote themselves to the church but are not bound by vows like nuns. The most widespread in the 17th century, the number of these houses reached three hundred. They still exist in the Netherlands and Belgium. One of the houses inhabited by these nurses, Begijnhof, is one of the quietest and most photographed places in Bruges. The Beguines were self-sufficient, having an infirmary, a farm, a brewery, and sometimes a church. The carved grapes at the entrance symbolize the vineyards they once owned and the grapes used in vinegar production. After the last Beguine left Begijnhof in 1927, it began to be used as a residence for women belonging to the Benedictine Order. They still wear traditional clothes and continue some customs and traditions of their ancestors. Other houses are used by ordinary citizens. If you move quietly, you can observe the daily life of the Beguines and the civilian architecture of Bruges by visiting Begijnhof. Entrance to the premises is free, and to visit the sample house, it costs €2 per person, free with the Musea Brugge Card.

De Halve Maan Museum (Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan)

The brewery tour, where the beer production process is explained, lasts for forty-five minutes and concludes with a beer tasting. It is the oldest among the one hundred and eighty beer breweries in the country, operating as a family business for six generations since 1856. It offers a beautiful city view from its terrace. The tour costs €15 per person. The beer produced here, Brugse Zot, is sold in many places in the city. Visiting hours are every day from 11:00 to 16:00, except Saturdays when it is open from 11:00 to 17:00. Entrance is paid

For those who have more time and want to explore in more detail, let me add some recommendations:

Minnewaterpark (Lake of Love)

Located very close to Begijnhof and the train station, Minnewater Park is a perfect place to relax. It is one of the best places to view the reflection of the city on the water. It has a large lake known as the Lake of Love, named after a girl named Minna who lost her life while trying to escape an arranged marriage. The modern Minnewaterbrug (Lovers’ Bridge) and abundant greenery are famous here. According to local belief, couples crossing this bridge together will be happy for a lifetime

Groenerei: With its ivy-covered houses and bridges, Groenerei is again a favorite of photographers. It’s challenging to decide which house is more beautiful here. You can capture the best views of the canal from Peerdenbrug Bridge to Meebrug. As the river meanders through lush green trees and 17th-century mansions, the shadow of the cathedral tower above is reflected in the water. The farther you move from the center, the quieter the canals become, and the views become even more beautiful. Alongside the canal, there is the city’s fish market, Vismarkt. In the past, fishmongers selling their products in various locations in Markt Square were moved to the fish market in 1821 to prevent the spread of the smell and consolidate them in a specific area.

Windmills: Once there were twenty-five windmills on the outskirts of the city of Bruges, but only four have survived to this day. You can find these windmills in a park between Kruispoort and Dampoort on the east side, and they are open for visits during the summer. Koeleweimolen was built in 1765 and moved from Dampoort to its current location in 1996. Sint-Janshuismolen, on the other hand, has stayed in its original location since it was first built in 1770. Both windmills are located on Kruisvest.

FOOD and DRINK

Potato Fries: I highly recommend Casa Patata, a wonderful place with a great river view and a serene atmosphere. Other alternatives include Potato Bar and Frituur de Gentpoorte. You can also try fries from cars parked at Markt Square.

Waffles: For waffles, you have several options like Chez Albert, Oyya, House of Waffles, The Old Chocolate House, or Balthazar. In Belgium, there are two types of waffles: Brussels-style, which is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, square-shaped, and can be ordered with chocolate sauce or various other toppings and fruits, and Liege-style, which is a doughy consistency with caramelized sugar on top. The Liege-style waffle has a unique flavor due to the combination of salty dough, sweet syrup on top, soft dough, and the crispy exterior. In Bruges, you’ll find Brussels-style waffles more commonly.

Chocolate: Bruges is considered the chocolate capital of the world. The city is a true chocolate paradise with inviting shop windows that would tempt even those who aren’t fans of sweets. While you might lament the cost as your chocolate is weighed and packaged, the flavors are truly incredible. Be sure to try hot chocolate at The Old Chocolate House. Other recommendations include Dumon, The Chocolate Line, and Chocolaterie Spegelaere.

YEME-İÇME ÖNERİLERİ

Patates kızartması: Harika nehir manzaralı ve sakin bir yer olan Casa Patata’yı mutlaka öneriyorum. Diğer alternatifler Potato Bar ve Frituur de Gentpoorte. Ayrıca, Markt Meydanında park etmiş olan arabalardan denebilir.

Waffle: Chez Albert, Oyya, House of Waffles, The Old Chocolate House veya Balthazar. Belçika’da iki tür waffle var: Brüksel usulü dışı çıtır, içi yumuşak, dört köşeli, çikolata sosu ya da türlü başka soslar ve meyvelerle sipariş edebileceğiniz waffle ve Liege usulü sadece pişmiş hamur kıvamında, üstü karamelize bir şekerleyle kaplı olan. Liege usulü olanda tuzlu hamur ve üstündeki tatlı şerbet, hamurun yumuşaklığı ve dışındaki sert kısım birleşince değişik bir lezzet çıkıyor ortaya. Brugge’de daha çok bulunanı Brüksel usulü waffle.

Çikolata: Brugge dünyanın çikolata başkenti olarak kabul ediliyor. Şehir tam bir çikolata cenneti ve tatlı sevmeyen turistleri bile baştan çıkartacak kadar davetkâr vitrinlere sahip. Çikolatanız tartılıp paketlenirken ücretinden dolayı biraz hayıflanabilirsiniz ama lezzetler inanılmaz. The Old Chocolate House’da sıcak çikolata mutlaka içilmeli. Diğer öneriler Dumon, The Chocolate Line, Chocolaterie Spegelaere.