Goncagül Haklar, July 2015
“Ich bin ein Berliner” June 26th, 1963, John F. Kennedy, West Germany
Would you like to experience being a Berliner and living like one, even if it’s just for a short time? Berlin, with its rich history and an art scene that has not lost its brilliance despite challenges, is ready to enchant you. And if you add a trip to ‘Potsdam,’ a heavenly corner with palaces, parks, and lakes, your experience will be even more fulfilling.
Let’s start with a brief history of Berlin in my travel notes. However, if you prefer, you can skip this part and jump directly to the daily itinerary or the dining recommendations at the end.
We know that Berlin was founded in the 13th century, and one of its first settlement areas was the present-day Museum Island or Museuminsel. Berlin became the administrative center in 1451 but faced significant challenges such as fires, plagues, and wars. The first magnificent structures were built along ‘Unter den Linden.’ In 1701, it became the royal capital of Prussia and also evolved into an industrial center. The city, marked by significant progress in architecture, science, culture, and art, was the focal point of the enlightenment during those years. Berlin was captured by Napoleon from 1806 to 1808. Afterward, another bright era emerged, defined by the architectural masterpieces of Karl Friedrich Schinkel and the artistic parks designed by Lenné. It continued its prosperity until the First World War when Berlin became the capital with the establishment of the German Empire in 1871.
Following the war, surrendering the empire and its capital plunged Berlin into a deep crisis, leading to the declaration of the republic. Despite economic crises and revolutionary chaos, cultural life remained vibrant. This period is often referred to as the ‘Golden Twenties’. In 1933, Adolf Hitler’s appointment as the prime minister marked the beginning of dark pages in the city’s history, with persecution against Jews, communists, homosexuals, opposition supporters, and many other groups. The infamous Berlin Olympics took place in 1936, where the renowned black athlete Jesse Owens made history by winning four gold medals and breaking a long jump world record that remained unbeaten for 25 years. From 1941 to 1945, the city suffered heavy bombings, causing about one-third of the houses and most historical structures to be destroyed. The victorious states took control of the city. In 1949, the German Democratic Republic was established, and East Berlin was declared the capital. On August 13, 1961, the Berlin Wall was erected, officially dividing the city in two. Even obtaining a pass to visit family members became possible only after President Kennedy’s visit in 1963. The Berlin Wall fell on November 9, 1989, and on October 3, 1990, the two Germanys officially reunited.
DAY 1-BERLIN
There are numerous reciprocal flights with Turkish Airlines from both Istanbul and Ankara to Berlin throughout the day. Our journey took 2 hours and 55 minutes. As our hotel, Hotel Leonardo Mitte, was close to Alexanderplatz we dropped our bags at the hotel and immediately began exploring the city. Alexanderplatz is a square where transportation is very convenient, surrounded by shops, and home to the World Clock, another symbol of Berlin (Weltzeituhr). The TV tower (Berliner Fernsehturm) is also located in this square. If you want to go up the TV tower, the fee is 12.5 Euros. There’s also the option to go up at night (until midnight), which I think is worth considering. After taking photos at Alexanderplatz, we walked to the Red City Hall (Rotes Rathaus). Following the city hall, we walked to another symbol of Berlin, the Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom). Many of the significant landmarks in Berlin are within walking distance, and exploring the city on foot is a passion for us city walkers. Although Berlin Cathedral may not be as magnificent as the cathedrals in Cologne or Milan, it has its unique style (entrance: 7 Euros, open from 9:00 to 20:00). Just beyond the Berlin Cathedral, you’ll find the statues of Karl Marx and Engels, and I recommend visiting them while you’re there.
Berlin is, in a way, a city of museums. Museums Island (Museuminsel) was specifically created on the Spree River for museums. Among the UNESCO Heritage Sites on this island, you’ll find the Bode Museum, showcasing awe-inspiring examples of baroque architecture, and the Neues Museum. Additionally, there are the Altes Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, and Pergamonmuseum. I especially recommend the world-famous Pergamonmuseum (Bergama Museum). This museum welcomes approximately 900,000 visitors annually. Purchasing museum tickets online before going to Germany will save you a lot of time. One of the significant pieces in the Bergama Museum is the entrance of the Bergama Zeus Temple and Athena Temple. Although only a small part is original, they have recreated and displayed it as a whole. In the museum, you can also see examples of Turkish tiles and carpets in the Aleppo room (entrance: 10 Euros, open every day until 18:00, Thursdays until 20:00). If you plan to visit museums, getting a ‘Berlin Pass’ can make both your transportation and museum entrances more economical. It’s very convenient to purchase it online, and afterward, it’s easy to pick up your ‘Berlin Pass’ from various points in Berlin, as long as you have a printout of the internet receipt.
After completing our museum tour, we took a walk on Berlin’s famous ‘Unter den Linden’ (Under the Linden) avenue. When we reached the end of the avenue, Berlin’s most important symbol, the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), was waiting for us in all its splendor. The Quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses – a chariot of gods and heroes – placed on the gate in 1793. The Quadriga, taken to Leipzig during Napoleon’s occupation, returned to its place in 1814. This significant piece, heavily damaged after World War II, was later meticulously restored to its original state. I highly recommend witnessing the place where people sacrificed their lives to cross the border, where individuals started breaking down walls. Also, watching the Berlin scenes in the music video of Scorpions’ ‘Wind of Change’ is strongly recommended.
DAY 2-BERLIN
We woke up early and had breakfast at the famous Cafe Einstein on Unter den Linden. Our first destination today is the Bundestag (German Parliament). Before going to Germany, you need to schedule and confirm your visit online 2-4 weeks in advance. Don’t say, “It’s just the parliament, what’s there to see?”—experience the difference. The most important part of the building symbolically is the Dome (Reichstagkuppel). After taking the elevator to the top, you walk upward through spiral corridors. There are free audioguides available in many languages, including Turkish, in the Dome. As you ascend the Dome, you can learn about both the Dome and the buildings seen from the Dome through the audioguide. The architecture of the Dome is entirely made of glass, emphasizing transparency. That means you are walking above the General Assembly Hall, seeing the representatives below, conveying the message that “the people are above everything”. The Dome is a true engineering marvel; the light hitting the Dome can be reflected onto the parliamentary chamber through a structure made of mirrors at different angles. Additionally, rainwater falling on the Dome can be purified and reused, and electricity can be generated from the solar panels on it. One of the celebrated events in the history of the building is that Hitler never set foot in it.
After completing our parliamentary tour, we visited the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe located on the other side of the Brandenburg Gate. This memorial, in the heart of the city, covers a vast area, and a sense of sorrow envelops you as you think about the murdered Jews. The presence of blocks rising as a monument in the heart of the city is also an indicator of how much importance Germans attach to history. Although chilling, according to the story, when the deceased Jews were stacked on top of each other, they occupied as much space as the high blocks, and people saw nothing but the dead.
After completing our visit here, we went to Potsdamer Platz. In this place where skyscrapers were built after the reunification of East and West Germany, there is the Sony Center and beautiful cafes. Moreover, there is also the Lego Museum, which may be appealing to little travelers. Potsdamer Platz has witnessed significant moments throughout history, as it is on the way between the cities of Potsdam and Berlin. Behind Potsdamer Platz, you’ll find the world-famous Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra. If you want to listen, you also need to buy tickets in advance. By the way, in the middle of Potsdamer Platz, there are stars and signatures reminiscent of Hollywood Boulevard on the sidewalks. Also, when you look through the telescope right next to the place where people’s names are written, a holographic image makes it seem like that person is walking on the sidewalk. As we started the day quite briskly, we settled into a nice café in the middle of the square, took a break, and then continued our tour. Next on the list is seeing the remnants of the Berlin Wall. The wall, known as the Wall of Shame (Schandmauer) in the West, was 46 km long, but today, although it occasionally makes itself noticeable, it is almost physically imperceptible. While some parts of the wall are in a storage facility in the Brandenburg State, some parts have been sold to various countries, including the United States, where I’ve seen a piece in front of the Rice University International Relations Building.
You can see the remnants of the Berlin Wall and traces of the Nazi regime at the Topography of Terror Museum on Niederkirchnerstraße. After completing our wall tour, the next stop was Checkpoint Charlie. This was the crossing point used by allied soldiers, ambassadors, their families, foreigners, representatives, and employees of the Federal Republic of Germany in the German Democratic Republic, as well as senior officials of the German Democratic Republic. There are still symbolic soldiers representing the Eastern and Western blocks, and you can take a photo with them as a nice memory.
By the way, I must mention that in Berlin, there are at least two of everything. For example, the famous shopping street of the former East Germany is Friedrichstrasse, and the shopping street of West Germany is Q’damm (Kurfürstendamm or Ku’damm). However, Q’damm Street is by far the best. After completing our tour at Checkpoint Charlie, we strolled along Friedrichstrasse.
DAY 3-BERLIN
Today, our first destination was Charlottenburg Palace (Schloss Charlottenburg). Being the largest palace in Berlin, Charlottenburg was a bit outside the city, so we bought a day pass and went there by tram. When we arrived, the views in the palace garden mesmerized us.
In the second half of the day, we headed to Q’damm. Q’damm is the most beautiful shopping street you can see after Champs-Élysées. In a way, the street also resembles Baghdad Street of Istanbul. You can see all luxury brands on the street, accompanied by luxury cars. But one of the most interesting stores on the street is undoubtedly ‘KaDeWe.’ My recommendation is to go to this store with an empty stomach. The top floor is prepared as a gourmet floor! Thousands of varieties of drinks, chocolates, cheeses, and anything you want can be found abundantly in this store. You can even choose a product and have it cooked instantly to eat. On ‘Q’damm,’ you will also find the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church or Ruined Church), whose top was damaged during World War II and is preserved in that state. Experiencing the amazement of not seeing even the slightest thing related to Hitler in the city (although it is understandable) and then seeing this church, preserved in its damaged state, after the monument built for Jews, leaves a strange impact on a person. To cap off the day, you can go to Reinhard’s Café under the Kempinski Hotel to taste delicious German pastries. We concluded the day with a walk in Berlin’s famous park, Tiergarten.
DAY 4-BERLIN and POTSDAM
Potsdam is a city just 50 minutes by train from Berlin and is an extraordinary place that has preserved its natural beauty. Potsdam is also the capital of the Brandenburg State and is on the UNESCO Cultural Heritage List, constituting Germany’s richest assets. We spent the entire day here, indulging in history, art, and beauty. Potsdam, with its magnificent palaces, astonishing parks, lakes, rivers, and unique architectural beauties in every corner, is fortunate not to have suffered any damage from World War II. I’ll list the places worth seeing, but to put it briefly, see the whole city; it’s more appropriate.
When the city was under Prussian rule, Prussian, Russian, German, French, Dutch, and Belgian architectures were splendidly blended and combined with a serious urban planning concept. Additionally, it consists of a total of 20 lakes and numerous rivers. After reaching Potsdam by train, we took a bus and got off at the Neues Palais stop, the largest palace. It is truly impressive.
Potsdam University is a majestic building located just behind the palace. After touring the palace, our next stop was Sanssouci Park. Relax carefreely in this park, which aptly lives up to its French name meaning without cares! Don’t forget to visit the Chinese House inside the park, which will greet you with all its glory, as if made of gold.
At the end of the park, we reached Sanssouci Palace. The palace has a cautionary tale: King Frederick the Great wanted to build a palace in Potsdam and ordered the purchase and demolition of a windmill that prevented the palace from being larger. However, the mill owner had no intention of selling. Even after the king’s men sent word that he would pay a much higher amount than its value, the miller rejected the offer. Upon this, Frederick II shouted to the miller that he was the king and could take the mill from him even without paying. With great composure, the miller gave one of the most memorable responses in human history: “But remember, there are judges in Berlin. No power, no authority, not even a king, is superior to justice!” In the photo below, you can see the palace and the windmill together. After seeing the palaces, we went to Brandenburg Gate, just to be clear, not to be confused with the one in Berlin! This gate was specially built for the city of Potsdam in 1771. In the magnificent ice cream shop Das Eis Haus right there, you must absolutely try the ice cream. In the city, you should also see the Holländische Vierte or the Dutch houses in contiguous order.
DAY 5-BERLIN
In our last day, so we tried to catch the last places to see. We took a breath at the East Side Gallery as soon as we woke up. A part of the wall, which is a symbol of the Cold War, with a remaining length of 1.3 km, has been seized by artists and turned into the world’s largest open-air gallery. For artists to paint at the East Side Gallery, a political stance and respect for human rights are required; for us travelers, inevitable moments of satisfaction.
DAY 5-BERLIN
In our last day, so we tried to catch the last places to see. We took a breath at the East Side Gallery as soon as we woke up. A part of the wall, which is a symbol of the Cold War, with a remaining length of 1.3 km, has been seized by artists and turned into the world’s largest open-air gallery. For artists to paint at the East Side Gallery, a political stance and respect for human rights are required; for us travelers, inevitable moments of satisfaction.
After completing our visit to the East Side Gallery, it might be an idea to come to Berlin and visit Kreuzberg, also known as Germany’s Bitter Homeland and called Little Turkey. But you might say, “I already live in it; there’s no need”. It’s up to you. While walking in Kreuzberg, you’ll really feel like you’re in Turkey. There are satellites turned towards Turkey on all the balconies of tall buildings. Store signs are in Turkish, and everyone on the street speaks Turkish. You can find fishmongers, pastry shops, restaurants, and stationery stores, everything you could want.
After completing Kreuzberg, next was Hackesche Höfe. This place is built from adjacent buildings and is an open-air venue with small and vintage boutiques in a labyrinth of corridors. Passing through the gardens under the buildings, you can reach the other connected building. After completing our visit here, it was time to see the famous Humboldt University. It is the largest in Berlin, the oldest in Germany, and one of the world’s important universities. Let me also mention that many famous people, such as Albert Einstein and Karl Marx, graduated from here. Right next to the university is the War Memorial for the Dead of the World War, or Neue Wache.
DINING RECOMMENDATIONS:
Cookies Cream – The gourmet restaurant, reached through what looks like a closed warehouse, was fantastic. I highly recommend it (closed on Sundays and Mondays).
Voo Café – A small oasis nestled in a courtyard in ‘Kreuzberg,’ specializing in coffee and tea.
Monkey Bar – Great for enjoyable afternoons.
Sucre et Sel – French flavors, absolutely delightful.
Enoteca L’Angolino – Worth visiting for their pistachio ravioli alone.
Reinhard Cafe – Under Kempinski Hotel, a must-visit for their pastries.
Cafe Einstein – The address for breakfast, at least try the apfelstrudel.
Das Eis Haus – Potsdam’s ice cream shop that should not be missed.
