JORDAN

Jordan, a country that blends its ancient history with a rich culture, is nestled in the heart of the Middle East. Although located in the Middle East, it has a distinct identity, with ancient cities shrouded in the mystery of pink deserts dominated by red rocks. It is a wonderland where you can dive between coral rocks and experience the sunset at the world’s lowest point, the Dead Sea.

Jordan, officially known as the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is an Arab country in the Middle East but stands out as a modern and unique nation. The official religion of the country is Islam, and the official language is Arabic. As of the 2021 census, the population is 11.15 million. Approximately 95% of the population is Sunni Muslim, and 4% is Christian. The currency is the Jordanian Dinar. Two-thirds of the population are Palestinians who arrived in 1948, 1967, and 1990.

Both Turkish Airlines (THY) and Royal Jordanian Airlines offer direct flights from Istanbul to the capital, Amman. Additionally, Turkish Airlines operates direct flights to Aqaba. The planes land at Queen Alia International Airport in Amman. Queen Alia was the second wife of the king and has died tragically in a car accident. No visa is required for Turkish citizens into the country; you can enter with a valid passport and stay for up to 90 days. Considering the geography and the multitude of routes that can be explored on foot, it is advisable to avoid extremely hot or cold weather.

The ideal times for a trip to Jordan are September-October and May-June. However, it’s important to be cautious about the cool nights. If diving is on the agenda in Aqaba, it’s better to choose the spring season. The minimum recommended duration for the trip is 4 days, but if time permits, a program extending up to 7 days can be planned.

Although there is evidence of human habitation in ancient times in the territory of Jordan, the first settlements in the Neolithic period around 8000 BC are indicated in cities like Ain Ghazal, Al-Beidha, and Jericho. Throughout history, these lands hosted various civilizations and came under the rule of the Ottoman Empire after the Ottoman defeat of the Mamluks in the Battle of Marj Dabiq in 1516. Jordan became part of the Ottoman Empire’s dominion for 400 years.

During World War I, in 1916, Jordan became part of the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire. The Emirate of Transjordan was established in 1921 as a British mandate by Emir Abdullah from the Hashemite family. King Abdullah I, who founded the emirate, was a classmate of Atatürk at the Ottoman Military Academy. On May 25, 1946, the country gained independence as the Hashemite Kingdom of Transjordan and, after capturing the West Bank in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, it adopted the name Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan on January 24, 1949.

After losing the West Bank in 1967, Jordan renounced its claims over the territory in 1988 and, in 1994, signed a peace treaty with Israel, becoming one of the two Arab countries, along with Egypt, to do so. King Abdullah II has been on the throne since February 7, 1999, following the death of his father, King Hussein. The country is governed under a unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy.

With a history of just one century, Jordan is considered one of the liberated areas in the Middle East, managing to stay largely away from regional conflicts and power struggles. Among the few countries in the Middle East that do not produce oil, Jordan’s economy relies on the service sector, tourism, and foreign aid.

Jordan is bordered by Syria to the north, Iraq to the northeast, Saudi Arabia to the south and east, Israel to the west, and the West Bank to the west. The country opens to the Red Sea through the Gulf of Aqaba in the southwest. Jordan is divided into 12 governorates. The largest governorate is the capital, Amman, which is one of the three most important centers in the Arab world along with Doha and Dubai. It serves as the heart of the country’s economy, arts, and entertainment. Other major cities include Zarqa and Irbid.

Education is highly valued in Jordan, and education is compulsory up to the end of high school. University education is not free; state universities cost around 2000 USD, while private universities are even more expensive. Nevertheless, having a university degree is considered crucial, and the country has a high rate of master’s and doctoral degrees. The minimum wage is around 270 dinars.

It is possible to reach all the touristic destinations from the capital, Amman, by road (Akaba is 335 km and approximately 4 hours away, Petra Ancient City is 236 km and approximately 3 hours away, Wadi Rum is 314 km and approximately 3 hours and 50 minutes away, Jerash is 50 km and approximately 50 minutes away, the Dead Sea is 70 km and approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes away).

Amman perfectly reflects the qualities expected from an Arab city: crowded and chaotic. However, unlike other Arab and North African cities, it is not colorful but rather yellow and uniform. Initially built on seven hills like Istanbul, it later expanded to twenty hills, resulting in many ups and downs. Therefore, the city is full of slopes. You can find traces of all the civilizations in Jordan’s history in Amman. Starting the tour of Amman with the Roman Theater is a good idea.

Right across from the Roman Theater, there is the city’s most famous künefe shop

This künefe is not an exact match to ours; there is cheese between the layers of semolina.

Then you can visit the oldest area, Al Balad. This area reminded me of our Mahmutpaşa. If you need to exchange currency, the currency exchange offices here would be the right choice.

The castle and ancient city on the hill are mostly gone, but the view of Amman from here is breathtaking. The modern part of Amman is Rainbow Street, where you can find beautiful restaurants, coffee shops, and bars.

DAY 1-AMMAN, JERASH-MADABA, and NEBO

In the north of Jordan, there is an ancient city named Jerash, located in the center of the province with the same name. Its ancient name was Gerasa, dating back to around 6500 BC. The city can be reached by car, buses departing from the center, or taxi. Excavations began in 1920, and due to being buried under sand for many years, the ancient city is well-preserved, earning it the nickname “Pompeii of the Middle East”. In 83 BC, Judean King Alexander Jannaeus captured the city and established the Decapolis, a league of ten cities, including ancient Jerash. The city was rebuilt by the Romans in 65 BC, and during the Vespasian era, it was burned by Lucius Annius due to its desire for independence. It is also considered a bishopric center due to the belief that Jesus visited the region. The first structure of the ancient city is the Hadrian’s Arch, built in AD 129 to commemorate Emperor Hadrian’s visit. It features three arches, four columns with Corinthian capitals adorned with acanthus leaves, and a pediment above the central passage.

After passing through the arch, on the left side, there is a hippodrome built between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD with a capacity of 500 spectators. The chariot race scene of the 1959 film “Ben-Hur” directed by William Wyler and starring Charlton Heston, was filmed here. In the ancient city of Jerash, except on Tuesdays, there are daily 45-minute shows featuring Roman warriors twice a day.

The vaulted construction skills of the Romans are best exemplified here

Moving a bit further, you reach the Southern Gate, which is located on the walls surrounding the city and was constructed in 130 B.C. It features three arches.

Continuing through the gate, you arrive at the Forum Square surrounded by 56 columns with Ionic capitals. Originally, there were 160 columns. On the left side, atop a hill, stands the Temple of Zeus.

The street extending from the Forum Square to the North Gate is called Cardo Maximus. This street intersects with the Decumanus Street, and at the intersection point (crossroads), you’ll find the Tetrapylon.

After crossing the intersection, on the left side, there is a fountain (Nymphaeum). Built in the year 190 A.D., this fountain is semi-circular, two-storied, and water cascades into the front basin through the mouths of seven lion heads on its facade. The fountain was originally colorful in its original state.

Behind the Nymphaeum, there is a cathedral built by the Jerash Bishopric in 450 A.D., using stones from the Temple of Zeus, and on the upper part, there is St. Theodore Church. Further ahead, you’ll find the entrance to the Temple of Artemis, construction of which began in the 2nd century A.D.

The entrance to the Temple of Artemis rises with stairs, extending all the way to the temple at the top.

From here, you can walk to the theater and the Temple of Zeus. The South Theater, located next to the Temple of Zeus, was built in the year 90 A.D. and has a seating capacity of 5000.

Mount Nebo is, according to the Old Testament, the place where the Promised Land was shown to Moses. Similarly, it is mentioned here that he was not granted entry into these lands. According to Christian belief, Moses is buried here, although the exact location of his grave is not known.

From here, Jerusalem can be seen in the open air.

The standing stone monument on Mount Nebo was erected when Pope John Paul II visited. There is also a museum in the area.

In Madaba, you can find the oldest known map of the holy city of Jerusalem, dating back to the year 600. This map is depicted as a mosaic on the floor of a church.

Also, there is a current mosaic here in the tourism center that shows all the points to be visited in Jordan.

DAY 2-PETRA and WADİ RUM

Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, is the primary reason millions of tourists flock to Jordan. It is often referred to as the Rose City or Red City due to the reddish hue of the rocks. Stepping into Petra feels like entering a completely different world. Rocks in the midst of the desert have merged with art to create a visual spectacle. Dozens of massive structures, carved into the red rocks, showcase impressive architectural elements.

Petra has served as a filming location for popular movies such as Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Mortal Kombat, The Mummy Returns, and Transformers: Revenge of The Fallen. The excavation process of this ancient city, which took approximately 500 years to build in stages and spans an area of 1036 square meters, is still ongoing.

Situated in the Wadi Musa region, Petra is about 250 km from the significant city of Amman and approximately 130 km from the city of Aqaba.

Petra was established as a caravan stop by the Nabataeans, a nomadic people who opposed the humiliation inflicted by Antigonus, one of Alexander the Great’s successors, in 312 B.C. The Nabataeans, who adhered to pagan beliefs, spoke Aramaic, considered the foundation of today’s Arabic language. As the capital between 400 B.C. and A.D. 106, Petra thrived in trade due to its strategic location at the crossroads of Arabia, Egypt, and the Eastern Mediterranean. In A.D. 106, the Romans conquered the city. The rise of maritime trade diminished its importance, and a severe earthquake in 363 caused extensive damage. During the Byzantine period, new structures were added, and later, Bedouins took over, leading a quiet and isolated life. Petra gained worldwide popularity when it was rediscovered by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812.

Entry to the site requires a ticket, but the Jordan Pass is valid. To obtain 2 or 3 days of entry with the Jordan Pass, one must choose the Jordan Explorer or Jordan Expert plans. Personally, I believe one day is sufficient. A passport is required to purchase a ticket. The Jordan Pass does not include Petra by Night on specific days, where Al-Khazneh and the Siq pathway are illuminated by 1,500 candles. Reservations are not accepted for the night event; tickets are sold between 7:30 and 8:30 PM. Petra is narrated with music, and mint tea is served in Bedouin style. During the event, Al-Khazneh is illuminated with colorful lights.

The path from the ticket booths to the narrow canyon called Siq is referred to as Bab Al Siq. The first monuments along this path are three massive rectangular blocks on the right side of the valley, commonly known as the Jinn Blocks. Although they were initially mistaken for cisterns, it became clear that these structures, despite losing some parts over time, have pyramid-topped burial chambers on their summits. On the left side of the path, two structures stacked on top of each other are visible. The upper level is the facade of the Obelisk Tomb. These tombs were constructed by the Nabataeans in the 1st century B.C. In fact, the four obelisks on the upper part of the facade symbolically represent the individuals buried in the tomb chambers. Below, there is an ancient dining room called triclinium, which is entirely unrelated. The upper facade, dated to the second half of the 1st century A.D., appears to have slightly compressed the lower facade, as there was not enough space to build higher. The dining room was used not only for funeral ceremonies but also for feasts held during anniversaries and ritual celebrations.

The deep and narrow chasm known as Siq is 1600 meters long, with the height of the rocks reaching up to 100 meters in some places. Along the path, there are several Nabataean sculptures representing deities and channels carved into the walls, which were used to bring water to the city. In addition to serving as a crucial communication route, the Siq seems to have a religious purpose, gradually preparing visitors for the city’s center with numerous carved votive niches and memorial inscriptions on its walls.

As the path narrows towards the end, and due to a slight curve created by the rocks, your view is obstructed. Suddenly, the rocks part, and at a moment when you feel like peeking through a keyhole, Petra’s most iconic structure, Al-Hazneh, stands before you with its tall columns and carvings.

This monumental structure, built into the face of a cliff and believed to be the tomb of King IV. Aretas, was initially thought to belong to the Roman period. However, its striking resemblance to Alexandria’s architecture confirmed it as a Nabataean structure heavily influenced by Hellenistic models. The front facade, standing at 40 meters in height and 28 meters in width, is constructed in a two-story Corinthian style. The facade is adorned with Nabataean, Greek, and Egyptian cultural elements, featuring divine figures, animals, and flowers. When first discovered, one of the columns appeared nearly completely collapsed. However, a careful restoration conducted by the Jordanian Department of Antiquities in 1960 restored the ancient elegant symmetry of the facade. In the spaces between the columns on the lower level, there are reliefs of the stepbrothers Castor and Pollux from Greek and Roman mythology. In the center above, a woman, likely representing the Egyptian goddess Isis, is depicted wrapped in fabric. Additionally, at the top, there are six warrior Amazon women carrying battle axes. It is believed that these decorations are original works of Nabataean sculptors, inspired by the craftsmanship of artisans from Alexandria.

The construction of Al-Hazneh began from the top. Initially, stonemasons created a narrow projection across the entire width. Subsequently, following architectural, ornamental, and interior drawings, they carved the structure downwards, working level by level. The two vertical groove rows on either side of the facade are called climbing notches, and it is known that they served as supports for scaffolding structures to work on the exterior of the building. To prevent flood damage, a channel was also constructed to drain water from the rocky ridge above the structure. After Al-Hazneh emerged, it suffered extensively from treasure hunters because it was believed that the Nabataean Kings concealed their wealth inside the sphere at the top of this temple, referred to as the “jewel” of Petra.

Due to the high influx of tourists, taking photos at Al-Hazneh can be challenging. The crowds, along with local residents and their camels brought to escort tourists, make walking nearly impossible. When you turn your face towards the building, it’s possible to climb the hill on the right side. Local guides are willing to take you up for a tip. The angle from the right side is better. The left side is not as aesthetically pleasing, and the path is more challenging. Around 9:00 AM, the sun starts shining on Al-Hazneh, providing favorable conditions for photography. For those planning to visit, I should note that in the afternoon, the light on Al-Hazneh comes from the opposite direction.

As you continue walking from Al-Hazneh with your face turned towards it, you’ll head towards the High Place of Sacrifice on the left side. The journey takes about 45 minutes, and if you only have one day for Petra, I recommend not spending too much time here.

As you continue on the right side, you’ll find caves carved into the rocks on both sides, along with religious structures.

The semi-circular Nabataean Theater, carved into the rock just below the Sacrificial High Place (Jabal al-Madhbah), could accommodate up to eight thousand spectators. The theater is believed to have been built in the early 1st century A.D. during the reign of Nabataean King IV. Aretas. It underwent repairs during the Roman period as well.

A narrow path extending to the east wing of the valley leads to the Funerary Palace, believed to have been used as a courthouse and shaped with Byzantine additions, along with Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb and Corinthian Tomb. However, the most magnificent among them is the massive structure carved into the mountains on the eastern edge of the valley, dating back to the second half of the 1st century and named the Palace Tomb due to its mysterious resemblance to a Baroque palace. It stands at a height of forty-six meters and is also referred to as the Tiered Tomb since it is built on three levels. Each of the four doors on the ground floor opens into a connected burial chamber, likely used for funeral feasts, with one of them, probably the second from the right, initially serving as a triclinium or dining room.

On the western side of the valley, you’ll find the Colonnaded Street, the Byzantine Church, the Great Temple, the Monumental Gate, the Qasr al-Bint built for the main god Dushara, and the Temple of the Winged Lions built for the goddess Al-Uzza.

The Byzantine Church, one of the remnants left by the Romans, was constructed in several stages starting from A.D. 450. It collapsed in the earthquake of A.D. 363 and remained unrepaired for around 600 years. The most captivating aspect of the church is its mosaics. Mosaics blending scenes from everyday life with exotic and mythological animals can be seen in each side corridor of the church, believed to date back to the 6th century. There is also a baptistery inside the church.

The Great Temple is presumed to have been built as a royal reception hall rather than a place of religious worship. Constructed by the Nabataeans in the last quarter of the 1st century B.C. by carving deep terraces into the main rock of the Katute Hill, the temple covers an area of 7560 square meters. It was built during the reign of King IV. Aretas. The structure is notable for its colossal colonnaded courtyard with elephant-headed columns, adorned with mosaic floors and plaster decorations. The Romans added a small theater and a bouleuterion (meeting place for city council members) to this area.

Right near the Great Temple, the Qasr al-Bint is referred to by the Bedouins as the Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter. According to the story, an evil pharaoh assigned the task of providing water to the palace to the virtuous daughter’s suitors. Two suitors simultaneously completed the task by directing water from different sources on the hills surrounding the palace. The princess chose the more humble of the two suitors, who attributed his success to God.

The Temple of the Winged Lions (Lion Triclinium) is estimated to have been built in the mid-1st century AD. Its name comes from two heavily worn lions located on both sides of the entrance gate. The high doorway, resembling a keyhole, was formed through the erosion of a round window in the upper part. The female heads on the outer areas of the frieze just above are noteworthy, bearing a striking resemblance to heads of Medusa.

In my opinion, the most impressive place in the ancient city is the Monastery (Ad-Deir). To reach it, one has to climb 1000 steps, some of which are actual steps, while others involve rock climbing.

During the Byzantine period, the locals refer to it by this name due to the crosses on the interior back wall associated with Christian use. The monument’s facade, 47 meters wide and 48 meters high, along with the large hall behind it, was carved into the mountain in the mid-1st century AD. The conical structure in the middle of the roof is in the style of Al-Hazneh. An inscription nearby indicates that the site was carved to honor various ceremonies and the deification of Nabataean King II. Obodas (30-9 B.C.) by a wealthy brotherhood community. Ed-Deir, used as a monastery during the Byzantine period, was featured in the 2009 Transformers film.

Due to the extensive use of animals for transportation in Petra, it is necessary to be mindful of the excrement on the road. Additionally, the smell of camel dung is quite prevalent. It’s important not to forget that there are people living in the caves. Petra is a very dusty place, and sand will be all around you. Bring clothing and shoes that you won’t mind getting dirty. There is a beautiful museum at the exit of Petra. I highly recommend visiting it

We visited the Wadi Rum station of the Hejaz Railway on our way to Wadi Rum. This railway, built between 1900 and 1908 by Sultan Abdulhamid II, is a 1464 km-long railway connecting Damascus and Medina. It stands as the Ottoman Empire’s final major project, accomplished with unique sacrifices. The financing of the railway, planned to make the pilgrimage journey safer, easier, and more cost-effective, was entirely covered by the resources of the Ottoman state and donations from Muslims worldwide.

Wadi Rum (Valley of the Moon) is Jordan’s most beautiful desert region, with 80% of its landscape being desert. However, instead of the endless sand dunes typically associated with deserts, Wadi Rum features giant sandstone and granite rocks in various shades of red, shaped by the winds, creating a stunning red landscape. Desert plants and camels complete the scenery. Covering 720 square kilometers and hosting Jebel Rum, the country’s highest point at 1,700 meters, Wadi Rum has been shaped over millions of years by wind erosion. Designated as a national park, Wadi Rum has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2011. Entrance to the national park is free if you have a Jordan Pass. Films like Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian were shot in this picturesque location. While evidence of various civilizations can be found, the Nabataeans left a particularly significant mark, with inscriptions and wall paintings in the rock caves. The true inhabitants of the desert, however, are the Bedouins, who have lived here for millennia. The term “Bedouin” refers to people who lead a nomadic lifestyle, ranging from the Sahara Desert to the Arabian Desert. Despite having schools in their living areas, Bedouins are deeply attached to their place of birth and lifestyle. Even those who go to university often return to their villages. We spent a night in Wadi Rum during our visit.

DAY 3-DEAD SEA

The Dead Sea (Al-Bahr al-Mayyit), bordered by Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank, is located at 430.5 meters below sea level, making it the world’s deepest hypersaline lake and the lowest point on the Earth’s surface. With a depth of 376 meters, the sea has a salinity level of 28-33%, rendering it inhospitable for most forms of life in and around it. Due to its high salinity, swimming or sinking is not possible, and it can be harmful to the eyes. The mud of the Dead Sea, rich in sodium, is known for its therapeutic properties.

According to the Old Testament, the Bible, and the Quran, this area was once home to the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah, inhabited by the people of Lot. The people of Lot living in the city of Sodom were considered the first place on Earth where immorality and various kinds of deviations were observed. Prophet Lot was sent to the people of Lot as a prophet to put an end to the immorality in Sodom and to guide the people back to Allah. In the holy scriptures, Lot, who is identified as the nephew of Prophet Abraham and the first believer in him, is mentioned. The people warned Lot not to interfere with their affairs, threatening to exile him if he did. In fact, they challenged him, asking for Allah’s punishment if what he was saying was true. Lot couldn’t handle the people, so he prayed to Allah, asking for their punishment. In response to Lot’s prayer, Allah sent three angels in the guise of handsome men. The angels first went to Prophet Abraham and told him that they would destroy the people of Lot, but Prophet Abraham asked for mercy on their behalf. The angels said they wouldn’t destroy the city if they found 400 believers, but they couldn’t find even 10. The angels arrived in Sodom, and Lot, who had never seen these strangers before, hosted them in his home. The people of Lot demanded that the strangers be handed over to them. In response, the angels told Lot the truth and asked him to take his family and leave Sodom. After Lot left the city, fireballs began to rain down on the city, and the destruction rendered Sodom and Gomorrah desolate, so that not even a seed would sprout over the cities.

Unfortunately, the Dead Sea is currently facing the threat of extinction due to industrial activities and global warming. To swim in the sea, one needs to use paid facilities or hotels.

In a Jordan trip, it is economical to get the Jordan Pass, which is equivalent to our museum card. This card allows free entry to more than forty places and is both profitable and fast, as there is no need to wait in line.

The currency of Jordan is the Jordanian Dinar (JOD), with 1 dollar being equivalent to 0.71 JOD. It is advisable to bring dollars to Jordan, as exchanging currency at Amman Airport may result in a loss due to the very low exchange rate. Credit cards are widely accepted, but a passport is required for currency exchange. Jordan is considered an expensive country because its currency is more valuable than the Euro and the dollar.

There is no need to worry about security in Jordan. While there are police checks, Turks are generally well-received due to the popularity of Turkish TV series.

For ease of travel, renting a car is an option (Monte Carlo Cars Rentals, Queen Alia International Airport Road, Amman).

For internet access, you can purchase a local SIM card from companies like Zain, Orange, and Umniah.

Aqaba (Akaba) is Jordan’s only port city on the Red Sea. The Gulf of Aqaba, an inland sea, is particularly famous for its rich marine life, making it a prominent attraction in the country. The waters boast over 20 dive sites, 500 coral reefs, 1,200 fish species, and 1,000 species of marine invertebrates. This unique feature attracts enthusiasts of scuba diving, especially those interested in exploring the underwater world.

It’s worth noting that the electrical outlets may have British-style sockets, so it’s advisable to bring an adapter.

FOOD and DRINK

First of all, let me share the regional dishes that you must try in Jordan:

Maklube: A traditional dish where lamb, eggplant, and tomatoes are cooked together with rice. In a pot, fried eggplants, lamb pieces, and quartered tomatoes are layered. Rice is added on top, and water is poured over. After cooking, the pot is flipped onto a tray before serving.

Mensef: This dish consists of lavash bread at the bottom, topped with lamb meat and rice, accompanied by a special yogurt sauce poured over it. The dish was invented by King Madaba. With this dish, which combines dairy and meat, he separated and distinguished the Jews, subsequently eliminating them.

Falafel: A beloved chickpea patty in Middle Eastern cuisine.

Amman restaurant recommendations:

Sufra Restoran: Prices are a bit higher than the Amman average, but it’s definitely worth it, especially for the appetizers.

Hashem: Located in the Al Balad area, this place offers a local and budget-friendly experience. They don’t provide utensils unless you ask. Hummus and falafel are highly recommended.

Al Quads Falafel: The right place for falafel.

Duke’s Diwan: The oldest residence in Amman with a nostalgic cafe open to everyone.

Hekayet Nebo: As the name suggests, this restaurant is near Mount Nebo and offers a buffet.