PAROS, ANTIPAROS AND IOS

Goncagül Haklar, July 2022

The golden beaches and untouched crystal-clear seas of the Cyclades Islands invite travelers to a postcard-perfect world. Narrow streets shaded by bougainvillea and white-washed houses with blue doors and shutters create a charming contrast. Windmills and beautiful chapels complete this magnificent scenery. The most popular among the Cyclades islands are Mykonos and Santorini. However, I opted for hidden gems that rival them in history, charm, and grandeur but are not as expensive and touristy: Paros, Antiparos, and Ios.

The total of 24 Cyclades Islands are among Greece’s tourist attractions, with the word “Cyclades” meaning around in Greek. Delos Island, considered sacred in Greece, is at the center of the area, where significant mythological figures like Apollo and Artemis were believed to have been born. The popularity of these islands as tourist destinations is due to a concerted effort. Geographically, the islands are rocky, full of cliffs, and quite windy. Limited agricultural areas have led to the development of winemaking, but it wasn’t economically sufficient. To address this, a tourism project was initiated in the 1960s. Pristine beaches combined with the distinctive Cycladic architecture create a perfect visual. Regardless of which Cyclades Island you visit, you’ll encounter the same landscape: white-washed houses, flat roofs, bougainvillea draping from rooftops, blue shutters and doors, oval shapes instead of sharp edges, and structures that do not exceed three stories. Let’s not forget that blue and white represent the colors of the Greek flag.

PAROS

When the ferry docked at Parikia Port, we were greeted by the dazzling white houses, windmills, and blue-domed chapels. For accommodation, we chose the town of Naoussa in the north of the island. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the town from the port.”

Paros is the second-largest island among the Cyclades, covering an area of 70 square kilometers. The Ottomans ruled the island in 1527, governing Paros and the rest of Greece for 300 years. Nurbanu Sultan (Cecilia Venier-Baffo), the wife of Sultan Selim II and the mother of Sultan Murat II, was from here. The island came under Greek control in 1827. Another distinctive feature of Paros, from ancient times to the present, is its white and semi-transparent marble. It is still possible to see the marble quarries dating back to ancient times.

Parikia is the capital of Paros, with one of Greece’s oldest churches, Panagia Ekatontapiliani (Hundred-Door Church), located just behind the port. This Byzantine church, dating back to the Byzantine era and believed to have been commissioned by the mother of Emperor Constantine in 326 AD, has never closed for worship since its construction. The church’s architecture served as a model for Hagia Sophia. Another significant point in Parikia is the castle, a medieval fortress of which only ruins remain today.

Arodo Beach can be a preferred spot for a short sea break on the way to Naoussa. Despite being very close to the center, this beach is quiet, peaceful, and relaxing. Sunbeds and umbrellas are free, and you pay for what you eat and drink. There is also a restaurant with shower facilities and beach service. It’s quite enjoyable to watch the ships entering and leaving the Parikia harbor from your sunbed, with the vast blue sea in the background.

Naoussa, located in the north of the island, is known as the art and culinary center of Paros. This charming fishing town is one of the places where the Cycladic architecture is best reflected on the island. Getting lost in the streets is the best way to explore the town. There are plenty of small shops selling handmade products, fishing boats in the harbor, cafes, taverns converted from old fishing warehouses, and bars.

Paros Island has the second most lively nightlife after Mykonos. Additionally, it serves as a central hub for ferry traffic between Athens, Thessaloniki, Crete, the Cyclades, and the Dodecanese islands. Due to its geographical features, the vegetation is sparse, giving it a generally arid impression, perhaps the only downside. Paros offers a variety of options to satisfy all types of vacationers, catering to those seeking entertainment as well as those looking for tranquility, surprising everyone with its versatility.

When it comes to places to see and activities to do in Paros:

Kolympethres: One of the most beautiful beaches on the island, located just north of Naousa. This beach is a geological phenomenon with its wind, sun, and sculpted rocks over time. There are dozens of caves to explore by swimming or walking, providing a surprise for the day. The beach is organized, with parking available. Sunbeds and umbrellas are available for a fee, but the space is a bit narrow, so it’s advisable to go early to avoid crowds. The sea is very clean, and thanks to the rocks, it is not easily affected by the wind, ensuring calm waters.
Monastiri Beach: Located close by, to reach this beach, you need to go to the Monastiri region, follow the coast, and pass the boat repair shop. This place is like an aquarium with an incredibly small bay and perfect water. The sea is so enjoyable that you need to go quite a distance for just sand and depth. It offers a very different and beautiful sea experience. The name “Monastiri” means ‘small pool’ in Greek.These beaches provide unique and picturesque settings for visitors to enjoy the natural beauty of Paros.
Paros Environmental and Cultural Park: Located very close to Monastiri Beach, this park area includes an ancient settlement, the St. John Monastery from the 17th century, a museum, walking trails, and an outdoor cinema. The park, which also hosts festivals, has a performance area resembling Greek amphitheaters. While at Monastiri Beach, you can also visit the Korakas Lighthouse at the northern tip of the island.
Golden Beach (Chrissi Akti): If you prefer to be a bit more towards the southeast of the island, Golden Beach, also known as Chrissi Akti, is a good choice. It is about 20 minutes away from Naousa. This beach is windy but, due to natural protection just off the shore, the waves are not too rough. Named after its golden sand, this 2.5-kilometer beach offers a view of the small island of Drionissi. There are two beach establishments here, and it hosts the World Windsurfing Championship every year.
While you’re in the area, you can visit the greenest part of the island, Lefkes Village. Tucked between the mountains, this village was once the ancient capital of the island. The village features a magnificent church, a jazz academy, and a literary museum.
Along the way, you’ll also come across the villages of Prodromos and Marmara. Marmara Village is surrounded by marble quarries, as “marmara” means marble in Greek. You may not necessarily go to Lefkes Village, but a visit to Marmara Village is a must. From there, you are very close to the beaches of Piso Livadi, Tsoukalia, and Glyfades. Piso Livadi is a charming fishing village where you can take a dip in the sandy beach and have lunch. Marmara Village is built on the ruins of the ancient city of Yria and is an important religious center. The village is best explored on foot as its streets are too narrow for cars to pass through.
The northeastern coves of Santa Maria and Little Santa Maria (sandy, organized) and the unorganized natural beach Lageri on the other side of the cape offer alternative seaside options. Lageri Beach is a natural spot, not organized, and is a preferred location for nudists. This beach is a 10-minute walk from Santa Maria and is truly a corner of paradise.
Santa Maria Beach is known for its extensive sandy beach and magnificent sea. The beach has two beach bars with sun loungers and umbrellas, as well as a restaurant. You’ll find water sports and diving schools here. The beach is long, and depending on your mood, you can spend time at the beach bar with music or find quieter spots.
In the south, Glyfa and Faragas (sandy beach, beautiful sea, organized environment) along with Aliki (a fishing harbor and a relatively less touristy place compared to Naousa and Parikia), and in the west, the shores of Agia Irini, are also preferable for swimming. Another enjoyable bay on the island is Agia Irini, where part of the sea is sandy, and part is a small pebble beach. There is one facility, creating a pleasant atmosphere. It is located on the main road, with a sign on the left. After turning off the road indicated by the sign, it’s about 2 km down a dirt road. Ideal for watching the sunset.
Livadia Beach is another option, located within Parikia. It’s a long beach where you can access the sea directly from Parikia.

When choosing the right beach for swimming in Paros, it’s advisable to decide based on the wind. Generally, the beaches on the east side of the island tend to be windy. This is due to the strait between Paros and Naxos, with 5 miles between the two islands.

We stayed at Cove Paros (Agioi Anargyroi, Naousa) during our time on Paros. It’s a delightful hotel with its own beach and a simple yet stylish decor. The hotel also features a pool. Its proximity to Naousa allowed us to walk to the town whenever we wished.

If you come to Paros with a family that includes children, don’t forget about the Butterfly Valley on the mountainous parts of the island. Petaloudes (Butterflies) Valley is located six kilometers away from Parikia.

ANTIPAROS

In addition to its own beauty, Paros has a bonus: Antiparos. Meaning “opposite Paros”, this island was connected to Paros until five thousand years ago when seismic movements and climate changes caused a channel to open between them. There is a ferry from Pounta Port to Antiparos every 15 minutes/half an hour. Pounta Beach is almost like a Mecca for kite surfers with its windy environment that never ceases throughout the summer. It’s quite enjoyable to watch the paragliders flying like seagulls while crossing to the other side by ferry. The journey takes about 7 minutes (27 minutes between Pounta Port and Naoussa).

The island is archaeologically significant because there are many small islands around it without settlements, declared as an archaeological site. The most popular of these is the narrow strait between Despotiko and Antiparos, where the sea depth is only 1 meter. Just imagine, you can walk to another island. Antiparos has a population of 1200 people. The length of the island from north to south is 11 km. Another must-visit place on the island is its castle dating back to the 13th century.

Antiparos Island, with its unspoiled texture, is a place where Hollywood stars like Tom Hanks, Bruce Willis, Pierce Brosnan, and many others have chosen to retreat. Antiparos Island seems like time has stood still, untouched, peaceful, clean, elegant, and charming.

Once we disembark from the ferry, Chora (pronounced hora), the center of Antiparos, awaits us with numerous cafes, tavernas, and shops. The island also boasts high-quality entertainment venues. Antiparos features many long sandy beaches meeting crystal-clear waters. There are wonderful beaches near Chora that you can even reach on foot. You have the option to use your own car on the island, and there is also the possibility of renting bicycles. Taxi service is somewhat limited, and public transportation is another option.

Things to do in the island:

The Antiparos Cave on Antiparos Island is a preferred destination for those seeking activities with its unique rock formations.
The most beautiful, organized, and relatively expensive beach on the island is Soros Beach. The sunbeds at this trendy beach club are said to be reserved days in advance. It is also possible to sit in the cushioned area inside the facility.
Another beach is the Beach House Antiparos.

But it’s best to explore the virgin coves of this island inch by inch. If we start from the harbor, that is, going down from the east:

Fanari
Psaraliki I and II (5 minutes walk from the center, organized, shaded, shallow waters, long sandy beach)
Panagia (not organized, 3 km from the center)
Glyfa (quiet, one of the longest sandy beaches on the island, surrounded by various accommodation options, taverns, and beach clubs)
Soros
Faneromani (south, sandy, turquoise waters, untouched nature, not organized, 25 minutes from the port)
Agios Georgios (southwest, secluded, with a restaurant, 18 minutes and 11 km from the center, opposite Despotiko Island with no settlements)
Vathis Volos (12-13 km southwest of the center, calm, pebbly, not organized)
Sifneikos (Sunset Beach – northwest, offers an ideal spot to watch the sunset, within walking distance from the center)

Camping Beach (north, preferred by nudists, resembling Caribbean beaches, very shallow waters, 10 minutes walk from the port, and you can walk to the island across.

IOS

With its natural harbor Yialos and pristine sea, Ios Island stands out as the most beautiful among the Cyclades islands. The capital, Chora, is a dazzling place with its narrow streets stretching among whitewashed houses, low-rise buildings, domed roofs, and the bougainvillea that adorns them. Here, windmills, churches, and rows of shops, cafes, and bars in narrow streets create a charming atmosphere. Even in the hottest months, the average temperature is around 27 degrees, thanks to the cool breeze. The winter months also have a mild climate.

Ios is mostly a rocky island with numerous cliffs. It covers a total area of 108 km², stretching 17 km in length and 7.5 km in width. The island is so rocky that even the roads are limited.

As for the name of the island, you might wonder if there’s any connection with Steve Jobs or if he named his operating system “IOS” after being influenced by the island. However, the name was given by the Phoenicians, and its meaning is said to be “pile of rocks.” Another claim suggests that “ios” means purple violet in Greek.

According to the records of the famous historian Herodotus, Ios is the homeland of Climene, the mother of Homer, the renowned ancient Greek poet born in Smyrna (present-day Izmir). Homer himself is believed to have died on Ios, and there are claims that his tomb is on the island. Every year on May 15th, Ios hosts the Homer Festival in honor of the legendary poet.

The island, known by its inhabitants as Nios, had its earliest settlers between 3200-2700 BC, consisting of migrants from Anatolia. After the Ionians and Dorians settled on the island around 1100 BC, it acquired the name Ios. As part of the Delian League, Ios was conquered by the Venetians in 13 AD. The island saw various rulers, including the Macedonians, the Ptolemaic Dynasty, and the Byzantines. In 1397, walls were built by Markus Crispus, providing protection against pirate attacks for many years.

During the Ottoman rule, the Turks referred to the island as “Little Malta” due to its easy defense provided by small bays and natural harbors. The Romans used Ios as a place of exile. Many churches and chapels on the island date back to the Byzantine period. Despite having a population of approximately 2,000, there are 365 chapels on the island, giving each family a chapel. The locals attribute the number 365 to the days of the year. The white-washed churches with blue-domed roofs, strategically placed in the most scenic spots, contribute to the unique architectural character of the island. Notable churches include Saint Irene in the harbor, Saint George in Gialos, Panagia Gremioti.

Ios Island can be reached by ferry from Paros in about 1-1.5 hours.

As for what can be done on the island:

To witness the most beautiful view of the island, one must climb to Panagia Gremiottissa Church at the top of Chora. From here, amidst palm trees, you can witness.

Odysseas Elytis Theater: Named after Greece’s most famous and Nobel Prize-winning modern poet, Odysseus Elitis, this theater was built in ancient architectural style and opened in 1997. Access to the theater is by car. Odysseas Elytis Ancient Theater and Open-Air Museum offer a beautiful opportunity for those who want to enjoy panoramic views of Mylopotas Bay and the deep blue waters of the Aegean.

12 Windmills: Located at the entrance of Chora, the 12 windmills are among the most touristy spots on the island. The windmills, once used for energy production, are now repurposed as houses with gardens. Despite some damage from intense winds, two of the windmills are still in good condition and provide one of the most beautiful views on the island. Attention to hill climbing enthusiasts – the climb is worth it.

The island has a total of 30 beaches with a combined length of 32 km of sandy shores, some of which have been awarded the Blue Flag. Describing Ios as having the most beautiful sea among the Cyclades Islands wouldn’t be an exaggeration. Here are some notable beaches:

Magganari: Located in the southern part of the island, Magganari is 23 km from the center and can be reached by a 40-minute bus ride. There’s no parking issue. The sea is as clear as crystal and transparent as a diamond. There are five consecutive bays here, and the beach was used in the 1988 film “The Big Blue.” It offers a quieter alternative to the popular Mylopotas beach. If you walk north, you can reach the secluded Tris Klisies (Three Churches) beach. If you enjoy rocky seascapes and clear underwater views, you can join the boat tour to the nearby rocky area immediately after arriving. The tour is offered by the water sports center on the beach.
Mylopotas: The most popular beach on the island, Mylopotas Bay, is a 20-minute walk or drive from Chora. The beach is one kilometer long, and there is parking available. Mylopotas is known for daytime club entertainment on Ios.
Yialos: It is a natural harbor within walking distance of the port and is organized.
Koumbara: This beach is located on the right side of the natural harbor.
Pathos Sunset Lounge: A legendary venue with an infinity pool and stunning sunset views. It’s a wonderful spot to relax and enjoy the sunset. Open until 10 PM, and the party continues. It is located near Koumbara and the natural harbor.
Agia Theodoti: This beach in the north of the island is located at the foot of a 16th-century church. It is fourteen kilometers away from the center. It features both an organized section and areas where you can relax under the trees on the sandy beach.
Psathi: Ideal for those who love deep waters.

We stayed at the CALILO Hotel (Papas Beach, Ios Island) during our time on Ios Island. The owner of the hotel, Angelos Michalopoulos, is a true nature and art enthusiast, and he built the hotel with this passion. The name CALILO is derived from the initials of the words that form his life motto in English: “create a life you can fall in love with.”

You enter the hotel through artificial waterfalls and among various sculptures. Even the boots of the construction workers have been painted with colorful patterns and hung on the walls. Everywhere, including the surface of these boots, is filled with Angelos’s messages about life: smile, fall in love, hope…

On the entrance wall, there is a message from Angelos that expresses truths we all know but often overlook in the hustle and bustle of life. It’s so simply put: “We only have one life to live, enjoy, create, and fall in love. Instead of subtracting minutes from our lives, let’s add experiences. Why are we so willing to surrender our lives to any problem or negativity that comes our way and so eager to postpone living? Every breath we take, every experience we have is unique. Every moment, every breath is unparalleled, and we will never be able to relive the moments we’ve passed.”

The night at the hotel was also truly special.

The concept hotel, entirely decorated with works of art, also had a wonderful beach. The view of the sunrise was truly breathtaking.

The Michelin-starred restaurant was set to open a week later, but the chef prepared meals for us in advance.

FOOD and DRINK

Mario Restaurant (Paros): Although a bit pricey, this restaurant is well worth it with its rich and diverse menu, impeccable service, and excellent presentation of dishes. Located in a lively atmosphere by the harbor.

Siparos (Paros): Located outside the town of Naoussa, this restaurant has a serene atmosphere. The dishes are flawless, and you can enjoy superb flavors by the seaside while watching the sunset.

Eutopia Fish Tavern (Paros): A true Greek tavern located in the heart of Naoussa Town. You almost feel like you are dining right by the sea. The prices are very reasonable.
Yemeni: Located in one of the lively streets of Naoussa Town, you must try the moussaka at this restaurant.