MILAN-COMO LAKE

Milan, the capital of the Lombardy region in northern Italy, is one of the world’s fashion capitals. In addition to its unique beauty, its proximity to day-trip destinations such as Como and the lake region, as well as the cities of Venice and Verona, makes it an attractive destination for travelers.

Milan may not be rich in historical and archaeological artifacts, but it is highly appealing to football and fashion enthusiasts. The city has given the world many famous designers, and as you stroll through its streets, especially watching people of a certain age dressed in elegant combinations with gloves, hats, canes, and handkerchiefs, you can’t help but be charmed by their smiles and admiration.

Aside from its reputation as a fashion pioneer, Milan’s 80,000-seat Stadio Giuseppe Meazza or San Siro Stadium is a temple for football fanatics. As for places to visit:

• Duomo di Milano
• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
• Teatro alla Scala
• Santa Maria delle Grazie Kilisesi
• Castello Sforzesco
• Museo Poldi Pezzoli
• Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci
• Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio
• Navigli

After arriving at Malpensa Airport with Turkish Airlines’ scheduled flight, taking the Malpensa Express train at the airport to reach the city center is the most convenient option (16.5 euros). You can get off at Cadorna, take the metro, and reach the city center in about 1.15-1.30 hours. The central train station, Stazione Centrale, is an architecturally interesting structure worth exploring. It’s essential to note that Milan has three train stations: Stazione Centrale, Porta Garibaldi, and Cadorna, which mainly serves regional train services. The city also boasts a well-developed metro network, and exploring the city by the yellow trams is also a viable option

DAY 1-MILANO

Duomo Cathedral, located in Piazza Duomo, is the city’s most important architectural focal point. The radial street layout from the ancient Roman period leads to Duomo, and all roads seem to ascend to this magnificent structure. The first building at this location dates back to the 5th century, the second was constructed in 836, and the third in 1075, but all were destroyed by fires. The construction of the current Duomo Cathedral, which began in 1386 and was completed in 1965, covers an area of 10,186 m2, making it the world’s fifth-largest cathedral (some authorities exclude St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome from the ranking since it’s not considered a cathedral, placing Duomo as the fourth; the first four include Our Lady of Aparecida Basilica in Brazil, St. John the Divine Cathedral in New York, and Seville Cathedral, with Duomo being the oldest among them). It is 157 m long, and it can accommodate 40,000 people simultaneously. With a total of 4,235 statues and figures, it stands as the world’s richest in this regard. Being the largest Gothic cathedral and the second-largest Catholic cathedral after Seville Cathedral, it holds a unique place.

Cardinal Antonio Saluzzo and Milan’s patron Galeazzo Visconti officially initiated its construction in 1386. Initially, terracotta stone was used, but later, Maggiore Lake marble was preferred, continuing with this subtly pink-touched marble. The traces of the water channels opened to bring this marble can still be followed in the ‘Navigli’ district. It is known that 78 architects from different European countries contributed to the work. The construction, which started rapidly, slowed down after 1418 due to both financial and political reasons. The more Baroque and Neoclassical details were transformed back into the Gothic style as originally planned in 1649 with the additions by Carlo Buzzi. The Madonnina Statue, created by Guiseppe Pergo and placed at a height of 108.5 m from the ground in 1762 on the back side of the cathedral, became a symbol of the structure. According to a widespread local belief, Milanese interpret the visibility of this statue from a distance as a sign of good weather. The building was completed in 1805 by Napoleon, who wanted to be crowned as the king of Italy in this cathedral.

Therefore, one of his statues is found on one of the towers. Restoration works are still ongoing. I recommend exploring the external beauty of this Gothic masterpiece by strolling around it first. It is truly difficult to believe that it was created by human hands. The interior, in comparison, is somewhat overshadowed by its external beauty and is quite plain. Optionally, you can climb to the tower either by elevator or stairs (for the daring). If you intend to do this, buy your ticket online in advance and go early, as the queue can be quite long.

If you’re thinking, “Don’t bother us; give us a more enjoyable tip”, then you can head to the top floor of the La Rinascente Shopping Center right next to the Cathedral, where there are two delightful restaurants. Sitting in one of them, you can savor Italian flavors on one side while indulging in the splendor of the cathedral on the other.

In Piazza Duomo, you’ll find the equestrian statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of a unified Italy who ruled the country from 1861 to 1878. When you turn your back to the statue, you’ll see two Venetian-style palaces on the right and left, namely Palazzo dei Porticini Settentrionali and Palazzo dei Portici Meridionali. On the right, there’s also the modern ‘Palazzo dell’Arengiaro,’ which stands out with its sleek lines and was built between 1936 and 1956. Right next to it is the Royal Palace of Milan, which is now used as a cultural center.

Our next stop is right next to Duomo Cathedral, and when you turn your back to the statue, you’ll find the old-style shopping arcades reminiscent of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, called Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Built between 1865 and 1877 in the form of a cross and octagonally centered, this structure differs from the Grand Bazaar with its transparent roof and the presence of many famous brands inside. The central mosaic on the floor features the flags of Turin, Florence, and Rome, the three regions of the Kingdom of Italy, and the flag of Milan. At the four corners of the octagonal glass dome, there are mosaics representing Europe, Asia, America, and Africa. It is said that those who complete a full turn on the bull mosaic’s genitals on the floor will have their luck and fortune opened. You can enjoy a beautiful Italian dessert or ice cream in the cafes here.

The other entrance of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele opens to Piazza Della Scala, where La Scala Opera House is located. Before La Scala, the opera house here was called Teatro Regio Ducal, and it burned down during the gala of a carnival in 1776. The project prepared by architect Giuseppe Piermarini to replace the burnt building was rejected by Count Firmian, the governor of Austrian Lombardy at the time. The second project was approved by Empress Maria Theresia in 1776, and it was decided to build the new opera house in the place of the old Santa Maria della Scala Church. The church was demolished, and within two years, the new building was completed by Pietro Marliani, Pietro Nosetti, Antonio, and Giuseppe Fe.

In its early years, La Scala was illuminated with 84 candles and had hundreds of water buckets for the possibility of a fire. The candles were first replaced with gas lamps, and in 1884, electric bulbs took their place. The building was renovated in 1907 to accommodate 2800 spectators. However, during World War II in 1943, it was bombed and damaged, undergoing major repairs in 1946. The building has hosted many famous composers and premieres. For example, the conductor himself conducted Verdi’s Requiem at La Scala, and the premiere of his famous work Othello also took place here. The building underwent a comprehensive renovation by the renowned modernist architect Mario Botta from 2002 to 2004. Although the building may not stand out much from the outside, its 6-story box is quite fascinating.

The statue in the square is of Leonardo da Vinci, created by Pietro Magni in 1872. The pedestal of the statue features four famous students of the master, symbolizing the four areas in which Vinci excelled—painting, sculpture, engineering, and architecture. Since Leonardo da Vinci realized one of his most important works in Milan, the Milanese express their gratitude to him in many ways.

You can stroll from Teatro alla Scala towards Brera, a charming district with cozy cafes, creating a bohemian ambiance. The area is known for its captivating Art Nouveau buildings, adding to its artistic allure. Our next destination is Pinacoteca di Brera, the city’s foremost art museum, boasting a courtyard adorned with abundant columns.

Returning from Duomo, you can explore the vibrant shopping scene along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, branching into Corso Venezia and Corso Buenos Aires. The journey continues, leading to Plaza Argentina, featuring a plethora of renowned brands for those who are willing to indulge in some shopping.

DAY 2-MILAN and ‘SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE’

Take the metro to Codorna Station and enjoy a 5-minute walk along Corso Magenta to reach Santa Maria delle Grazie. This church is home to Leonardo da Vinci’s famous masterpiece, The Last Supper (L’Ultima Cena or Il Cenacolo). To secure your spot, it’s advisable to purchase tickets online well in advance (www.tickitaly.com). Consider joining a guided tour that lasts around 3 hours, showcasing the city’s significant landmarks. The ticket price is 48 euros per person, offering a grand finale with the soloist, “The Last Supper”.

As I mentioned, what makes this church attractive is its hosting of perhaps the world’s most famous and recognized artwork, “The Last Supper” was created by Leonardo da Vinci. Believed to depict the moment when Jesus, before his crucifixion, shared a sacred cup of wine and bread with his 12 apostles on the last supper, where one of them was foretold to betray him. Alongside Leonardo da Vinci’s remarkable talents, his ability to depict human emotions is truly awe-inspiring. It is believed that the depicted meals on the table reflect Da Vinci’s own eating habits. Symbolic scientists were intrigued by this masterpiece for many years, and it formed the basis of Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code”.

Da Vinci reportedly spent days working on this piece, often standing still for hours in front of the painting, talking to himself about the artwork. Sforzesca, the patron of Da Vinci, frequently warned him about neglecting his work.

This famous masterpiece has faced many challenges before reaching us. Due to the painting technique used at that time, the paint began to deteriorate. However, the Italian government successfully rescued the artwork through an extensive restoration process. “The Last Supper” survived a bombing and narrowly avoided being dismantled and taken to France during the French occupation.

The fresco is located in a temperature-controlled room. To enter, your body temperature is adjusted in three separate rooms, and you are kept waiting to cool down, ensuring no harm comes to the artwork. Typically, frescoes are made with a thick layer of wall paint within 24 hours, but Leonardo worked with the precision of a painter for years. They allow you to take photographs without flash. As someone who has seen many of Vinci’s works, I must confess that this one left the most profound impact on me. Make sure to see it!

You can take the metro to Cairoli station and visit Castello Sforzesco, the city’s castle. Built in the 15th century, the castle gives you the feeling of the Middle Ages. You can spread out on the grass in the courtyard or, after exiting from the back gate of the castle, spend time in Parco Sempione. At the end of this park, Piazza Sempione is crowned with the neoclassical Arc de Triomphe (The Arch of Peace, Arco della Pace), built between 1807 and 1838, which is a replica of the one in Paris. Napoleon Bonaparte captured Milan in 1796/1797 and was declared the King of Italy with the iron crown of Lombardy in May 1805. He had this triumphal arch built at the entrance to the city for his entry from Paris to Milan, but he couldn’t see its completion. The arch, completed in 1838, became a symbol of peace in Europe after 1815. You can see this arch from the back of the castle. For those who don’t want to lie down on the grass, the museum section displaying special sculptures and paintings or the castle itself can also be explored.

Museo Poldi Pezzoli primarily showcases Renaissance works, featuring captivating paintings by Botticelli, Meissen porcelain, and Murano glass.

Museo Scienza is a magnificent science museum, especially notable for its display of works by Leonardo da Vinci. There are also entertaining science activities for young travelers.

San’t Ambrogio Basilica is one of Milan’s oldest religious structures. This basilica gained fame for the “Devil’s Column”. The column has two holes in its shaft, producing both sound and a sulfuric odor. While I didn’t hear the sound, the sulfuric smell is indeed noticeable. Legend has it that Sant’Ambrogio encountered the devil in the church’s garden, and in self-defense, he kicked the devil, causing him to collide with the column. The horns on the devil’s head created the holes in the column. The devil escaped to hell through these holes, supposedly causing the sound and scent of hell to emanate from them.

Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli is the city’s oldest and largest park (1784), located in the Porta Venezia district, northeast of the city. It covers an area of approximately 180,000 square meters and is home to the Natural History Museum (1888–1893) and the Planetarium (1930).

Navigli District with its canals hosts numerous cafes, restaurants, and shops, offering a delightful experience both during the day and at night. Apart from antique shops, there is also a flea market held on Sundays. If you’re taking the metro, you can reach Navigli by getting off at the Porta Genova station.

FOOD and DRINK

Salumaio di Montenapoleone-Situated in a small courtyard with an open-air area and a charming interior, this place is truly high-quality and impressive. It gained fame for its burrata mozzarella cheese, which was genuinely the best among what I tried. Burrata costs 18€, starters range from 18-30€, pasta and risotto are priced between 20-25€, main courses are around 27-35€, and desserts are 7-9€. The wine selection is quite good, and the service is excellent. Reservations are highly recommended.

Trattoria de Pescatore-Ideal for indulging in seafood on a budget. Whatever you choose, you won’t be disappointed. Their signature dish is “Astice alla Catalana”, which consists of cold-shell seafood served with tomatoes, red onions, and olive oil. They have daily changing pasta options. I had pasta with eggplant, tomatoes, and seafood, and it was fantastic. The Parmesan cheese they offer after the meal is exceptionally tasty. The place is crowded and lively, a true Italian experience. Reservations are a must.

Ratana-One of the top contenders in the list of places that make the best risotto in Milan. If you’re going, you might think its location is a bit odd; don’t be discouraged, you’re in the right place. The osso buco with saffron risotto is simply legendary. “Risotto alla Milanese con Ossobuco” costs 30€. Other dishes are around 20€. And, don’t forget, reservations are a must!

Giacomo Bistrot-They have elevated the retro style of French bistros with their decor. The dishes are incredibly delicious. Starters range from 14-24€, pasta dishes from 16-24€, main courses from 24-35€, and desserts from 14-18€. It is highly recommended to make a reservation before going.

Pasticceria Marches-Milan’s oldest pastry shop. Elegant pastries, magnificent flavors. A must-visit.

Farage (Brera): Highly recommended for gelato.

Cioccolati Italiani: A chain with delicious gelato; be sure to try it.

Panzerotto (Luini – near Duomo): For a crescent-shaped closed pizza, excellent for a quick bite.

Spontini: Famous for their pizza slices.

COMO LAKE

This lake located in the Lombardy Region is the third largest lake in Italy after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore. This natural wonder, which has been a source of inspiration for many films and books, is known not only for its charming villages but also for the villas belonging to established Italian families and famous personalities (such as George Clooney and his family). Actually, my suggestion for this region, which you can easily reach with a day trip and by using the train, is to stay overnight and enjoy both the night and the sunrise. The main settlements are Varenna, Menaggio, Bellagio, and Como towns. Lake Como has a reversed Y shape, with Como and Lecco at the two lower ends, and Bellagio at the intersection of all branches. Menaggio and Varenna are situated close to it on the right and left, respectively.

It is possible to reach Como and Varenna by train. You can take a Trenord train from Stazione Centrale to the S. Giovanni Station in the center of Como in about 30 minutes, or from Cadorna Train Station to Como Nord Lago in about 1 hour. Once you exit the station and reach the lake, you can walk to the ferry pier by turning left. The pleasure of traveling on the lake by ferry is quite unique, and it’s advisable to sit in the open section, of course…

On the other hand, TrenItalia trains can take you from Stazione Centrale to the Esino station in Varenna, but the frequency of these trips is lower. We boarded the train from Como and went by ferry to Bellagio. The journey takes 2 hours and 10 minutes. Nature has been very generous to this region, and when you add the Italian sense of aesthetics and respect for art, beautiful structures, and towns that you can’t get enough of emerge.

If you ask what should be seen in the towns:

Take a sea taxi or bus to Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo from Menaggio. This villa, built in 1690, has a museum and a botanical garden. After Tremezzo, you can walk for half an hour or take a taxi to the town of Lenno and visit Villa del Balbianello, the most famous among the villas on the lake. This villa has hosted many films, including ‘Casino Royale’, ‘Ocean’s Twelve’, and ‘Star Wars Episode II’. Continuing from Lenno, you reach Argegno. In this town, there is possibly the steepest funicular connecting the village of Pigra on the hill to the beach in Argegno. This 5-minute journey is like descending with a parachute, but the view is certainly breathtaking.

You can also use sea taxis to go from Lenno to Bellagio, or take a ferry from Menaggio to Bellagio, as it takes only 15 minutes by ferry. Bellagio is the most crowded and characteristic town among the towns. However, all the towns are beautiful. In summer, you can swim in the lake, and some towns have beaches. It is ideal for a calm, peaceful, and enjoyable holiday. I don’t know if it gets very crowded in the summer, but it was really pleasant in May. Spending a day in each town, sitting by the lake, getting lost in the streets, taking lots of photos, and sipping your drink by the lake are enough to add extra charm to your life. You can return to Como from Bellagio with a 1-hour road trip, but keep in mind that the road is very winding.

You can take the funicular to the village of Brunate to overlook the lake from the top. In Como’s Duomo square, there is a very impressive cathedral. Another important square is Piazza Volta – if you’re thinking you remember this name from somewhere, you’re right; you’re in the hometown of the inventor of the battery, Alessandro Volta. If you want to see a villa here, your option is Villa Olmo.

Varenna is the most authentic town, managing to remain untouched. There’s nothing specific to visit, just perfect for wandering its streets.

Considering you’ve come all the way to Lake Como, other alternatives could be Lake Maggiore or extending your journey to Switzerland and visiting Lake Lugano

FOOD and DRINK

Terraza Metropole-The magnificent lakeside restaurant of Nuovo Hotel Metropole. Homemade pastas range from 14 to 19 euros, while desserts are priced between 8 and 10 euros. The welcome is warm, the service is quick, and you’ll have a stunning sunset before you. The flavors are superb.