COPENHAGEN

Copenhagen (pronounced as København, meaning “harbor” in Danish) is a city worth visiting with its canals, modern architecture, cheerful people who mostly prefer bicycles, art museums, serene and expansive parks, rich culture, and safety. Comprising a total of 443 islands, with settlement on only 76 of them, the city is connected by bridges, creating a country filled with freedom.

1. Little Mermaid
2. Tivoli
3. Strøget
4. Nyhavn
5. Amalienborg Palace
6. Rosenborg Castle
7. The Round Tower
8. The Marble Church (Frederick’s Church)
9. Christiania
10. Slotsholmen (The Castle Islet)-Christianburg Palace (parliament)

Denmark, according to a three-year extensive study by the Columbia University World Institute in 156 countries, is the happiest country in the world. The United Nations World Happiness Report also states that the world’s happiest people live in Denmark.

The city has experienced two major fires in 1728 and 1795, causing significant damage. According to a tale, a small child caused the first fire by knocking over a candle! Failing to learn from the first fire, the residents, whose buildings were made of wood and closely spaced, suffered a similar fate in the second fire. They decided to build more rule-compliant, stone, and open-spaced buildings. At that time, the city was surrounded by walls, and the key to the city was in the hands of only one king. According to another story, on the night before the second major fire, all the firefighters got drunk during an event. When the fire broke out that night, the firefighters couldn’t go through the city and get water because the door was closed. No one dared to face the king in their drunken state to ask for the key, and the city turned to ashes once again. Danes say they haven’t been afraid of anything as much as alcohol. In Denmark, where tap water is now drinkable, there used to be permission for soldiers to consume beer as a liquid source, “so we lost almost every war,” they say, laughing.

Denmark’s official language is a mix of German and English called Danish. Especially, when German is known, written texts are easily understood.

Denmark has a constitutional monarchy. There was a small administrative chaos in the country when King IX. Frederick died in 1972 because the king had no sons and three daughters. This situation, seen for the first time in the world’s oldest royal family, led to changes in laws, and on January 14, 1972, II. Margrethe ascended to the throne with the title of queen. II. Margrethe, a mother of two sons who graduated from five universities, including Paris and London, is said to be very intelligent. Moreover, as a head of state, she has astonishing abilities. The 82-year-old queen can speak Danish, Norwegian, Swedish, French, English, and German. Interestingly, she is the person who translated The Lord of the Rings into Danish.

Contrary to popular belief, Denmark is the flattest country in the world—do you consider the Netherlands to hold that title? The highest point is the 1.73-meter, Yding-Skovhoj. Due to the small size and flatness of the city, cycling is prevalent. In contrast to the common sight of heavy trucks in Istanbul traffic, where they often maneuver aggressively, seeing the graceful bicycles gliding along their dedicated paths in Copenhagen is a source of joy. People of all ages and backgrounds, including women, men, tourists, and locals, prefer bicycles to get around. For Copenhageners, who have turned sports into a way of life, this choice is indispensable. They are so athletic that, for example, there is a rollerblading event every Friday evening. Thousands of Copenhageners follow one another, skating through the city. Some even enhance their enjoyment by playing music through speakers. Copenhagen isn’t a very large city to explore, especially for those who prefer walking! It is possible to explore the city at an average pace in 5-6 hours.

Copenhagen, not only the capital of Denmark but also known as the entertainment center of the Scandinavian countries (Sweden, Norway, and Denmark). Similar to other Northern European countries, it is populated with people of perfect stature, flawless skin, and blonde beauties along with handsome men.

The journey from Istanbul to Copenhagen takes approximately 3 hours and 35 minutes. Upon arrival at Copenhagen Airport (Kobenhavns Lufthavn), you are greeted by massive parquet-covered floors, a peaceful silence, and a hassle-free environment with smiling faces. It’s hard not to be amazed after the chaos of Atatürk Airport. The city center can be reached by taxi, train, or metro. The metro departing from Terminal 3 is the most convenient option. You can purchase a metro ticket from automatic machines or counters at the main entrance/exit of the airport for 36 DKK (approximately 12 TL) using a credit card. The ticket is valid for 75 minutes. The journey to the city center takes 15 minutes and only includes 3 stops (Tarnby, Orestad, and the station you will disembark, Central Station). It is not recommended to exchange money at the airport in Copenhagen. Regardless of where you exchange currency in Copenhagen, a fee of 25 kroner is charged. Places that do not charge this fee already include it in the rates. Forex at the train station offers the most favorable rate for currency exchange, but it is advisable to calculate your expenses and exchange money in a single transaction due to the 25 kroner deduction. A practical way to calculate the exchange rate between Kroner and Turkish Lira is to divide by 3 (e.g., 45 DKK equals approximately 15 TL).

Our hotel choice was the First Hotel Mayfair. It was quite close to the station, centrally located, and beautifully decorated. The rooms were a bit small but comfortable, and the bathrooms, though small, were very clean. We paid a total of $500 for three nights.

DAY 1-COPENHAGEN

We left our belongings at the hotel and immediately set out to explore the city. Turning right onto Vesterbrogade road and passing through the Tivoli Gardens, our first destination was the City Hall and Square (“City Hall Square” – Rådhuspladsen) in the city center. The building was designed by architect Martin Nyrop and constructed between 1892 and 1905. The building features a 105-meter tower, a golden statue of Bishop Absalon, and an astronomical clock created by Jens Olsen over 12 years, completed in 1955. The clock, with 14,000 parts, even indicates lunar and solar eclipses. The City Hall Square is a small and charming square where people gather, and events take place. When facing the city hall building, we encountered the statue of Hans Christian Andersen on the right side of the square, which is also named after him. Continuing along this boulevard, we reached the Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum just beyond the Tivoli Gardens. The museum consists of three buildings. The oldest building of the Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum, constructed by Vilhelm Dahlerup in 1897, houses sculptures. The second part, designed by Hack Kampmann in 1906, displays antiquities. The last building, designed by Henning Larsen in 1997, hosts impressionist and post-impressionist paintings. The winter garden at the museum’s entrance is truly impressive. The extensive sculpture collection is incredible, and the display style is delightful. The collection of French impressionists on the second floor is a heaven for art lovers. While getting lost in Degas studies, Monet, and Pissaro paintings, you come across Gauguin’s early works and three masterpieces by Van Gogh. The museum’s biggest surprise is its rooftop terrace with a view of the city (Carlsberg Glyptotek: Dantes Plads, 7).

Since the museums closed at 17:00, we decided to postpone our planned visit to the National Museum until the next day. Instead, we went to STRØGET street to explore the surroundings. This street dates to 1962 and is considered the oldest and longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe, stretching for a total of 2 km. However, it’s important to note that Denmark is a very expensive country, and the shops close at 18:00 on weekdays and 15:00 on Saturdays. Some shops may have limited hours on Sundays. Strøget Street starts from City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen) and goes to the New King’s Square (Kongens Nytorv), where we encountered Denmark’s oldest fountain dating back to 1608. The street is bustling with activity, lined with shops on both sides, featuring well-known brands. For our first dinner, we chose Restaurant Tight, located in a side street intersecting with Strøget. Since we had made a reservation in advance, everything went smoothly. I recommend making reservations in advance as this restaurant is in high demand. Our dinner, accompanied by Amalaya 2012 Tinto de Corte (Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon) from Argentina, started with foie gras (one of the best I’ve ever had), grilled vegetable tower with goat cheese, and beef carpaccio. For the main course, we continued with the restaurant’s specialty, surf ‘n’ turf. We finished the meal with a fantastic panna cotta served with red berry sauce and grated bitter chocolate. The texture was silky, and the vanilla flavor was rich. The bill for four people was around 900 DKK.

DAY 2-COPENHAGEN

Since we didn’t opt for the hotel breakfast option, our first stop was Emmery’s, known for its delicious pastries and bread, for breakfast. Our next destination was the National Museum, where entry is free, and it is open for visitors from 10:00 to 17:00, except on Mondays. On the first floor of the National Museum, items belonging to American Indians, Africa, India, Indonesia, Japan, China, Central Asia, Siberia, and Greenland people are exhibited under the title “World Peoples”. This floor also houses exhibits related to the Kingdom of Denmark, which is the oldest kingdom still in existence, with a history dating back to 1397. On the second floor, you can find ethnological treasures, toys, and Danish Stories. The third and final floor features artifacts from the Near East and Classical Antiquity. The museum also has a special collection dedicated to the Vikings. I must admit that it was the most impressive ethnographic museum I have ever seen, not only in terms of content but also the design of the presentations. It is a must-visit.

In the same area, there are other museums that can be explored based on personal preference. The State Art Museum (Statens Museum for Kunst), built in 1896 in the Italian Renaissance style, hosts collections by Picasso, Mantegna, Rembrandt, and Matisse. Continuing our journey, we visited the Christiansborg Palace, which serves as the parliament building, the prime minister’s office, and the supreme court. The palace, with origins dating back to the 12th century, has been rebuilt twice due to fires in Denmark. The current structure, designed by architect Thorvald Jørgensen, was completed in 1918. The church within the palace, built by renowned architect C. F Hansen, is only open for visits on Sundays from 10:00 to 17:00. All these areas are part of an island called Slotsholmen.

Afterwards, our plan to stroll along Strøget street was disrupted because it was Denmark’s Constitution Day, a national holiday, and the shops were closed. So, we redirected our route to Nyhavn, a charming harbor surrounded by colorful buildings. The canal was constructed in 1671 for unloading goods from trading ships. It used to be the center of nightlife, and now it hosts many restaurants and cafes. On the way to Nyhavn, we unexpectedly encountered a charming flea market where you could find quality items at reasonable prices, especially for antique enthusiasts. It added a pleasant surprise to our day.

Marveling at the row of adjacent colorful buildings along the canal, you can’t help but admire how beautifully they are preserved. The Nyhavn area is also the starting point for canal tours. Additionally, the houses of Hans Christian Andersen, the creator of many fairy tales like “The Little Match Girl”, “The Steadfast Tin Soldier”, “The Princess and the Pea” are located here. We purchased a combined ticket that included a canal tour and entrance to Tivoli Gardens, and it turned out to be quite economical (110 DKK). The politeness and friendliness of the tour operators are truly remarkable. Danes have a special place in the world of design. During our canal tour, we, too, watched their creations with admiration, including the National Theatre building, the Opera House, and, of course, the Royal Library. The Opera House, designed by Henning Larsen and in service since 2005, has five floors below sea level and two floors above the sea.

The city’s architectural and cultural pride, the Royal Library, also known as the Black Diamond, glistens like a jewel in the reflections on the building’s black glass surface from the canal waters. The Royal Library on the Slotsholmen Island was established in 1648 and is the largest library in Northern Europe. The Black Diamond, an addition in 1999 by the Schmidt, Hammer, and Lassen architectural firm (Det Kongelige Bibliotek: Soren Kierkegaards Plads No.1), stands out as a marvel in the city’s architecture. Amalienborg Palace, the Royal Palace, was built in 1740 in Rococo style, consisting of four identical buildings surrounding an octagonal courtyard. Since the city fire in 1974, the Queen has been residing here. The most interesting point of the tour is the Little Mermaid statue (Lille Havfrue). Since 1913, she has been sitting on a rock in the sea with all her melancholy, just as if she had just come out of Andersen’s book. She has suffered quite a lot: her head came off once, her arms twice, and she has been subjected to numerous paint attacks. In 2010, she was temporarily moved to the Danish pavilion at the Shanghai Expo fair to be exhibited—which, I recommend checking out the design of the pavilion online.

After completing our canal tour, we visited the Marble Church or ‘Frederick’s Church’. The church was designed by Danish architect Nicolai Eigtved in 1740, construction began in 1749, and it was completed in 1894. It is the largest church in Scandinavia and has the third-largest dome in Europe.

Next, we visited the Danish Museum of Art and Design (Kunstindustrimuseet). The Design Museum, designed by Henning Lansen, showcases modern designs, especially in furniture. Taking photos with oversized furniture is quite interesting. Today, we truly indulged in art and architecture.

Hungry and eager to taste Danish beers, we headed to Café Norden near the old fountain. Carlsberg is a world-famous Danish beer, and the café serves it. The name is derived from J.C. Jacobsen, whose father was also a brewer. Jacobsen asked the king for permission to establish a factory to make a very special beer. He convinced the king by saying that he would use the latest technologies and try different formulas. He placed the brewery he would make on one of the city’s highest hills (you can visit this building as a museum and try two different beers at the end of the tour). Did you get the name? It’s Carl’s mountain, named after his son Carl.

After enjoying the beers at Café Norden, we continued to our new destination. Tivoli Gardens opened in 1843 and includes restaurants, lakes, concert halls, and an amusement park. It is said that Walt Disney took inspiration from this park before establishing Disneyland. There are wooden toys made since 1930 (the oldest known) inside. Danes are happily lounging on the grass, enjoying the beautiful weather. Especially for travelers visiting Copenhagen with their children, this is a must-visit destination.

For dinner, we had made a reservation at The Admiral Hotel, specifically at the SALT Restaurant and Bar within the hotel. To reach it, we rested a bit at the hotel and then walked back to the Nyhavn area. It’s not likely to taste local dishes for dinner in Denmark because places with this feature only serve lunch. The reason for choosing SALT was that we could taste some Danish flavors for dinner. We started with Danish cheeses and dried meat, accompanied by our wine preference, Bibbiano Monternello-Chianti Classico. The meat with rosemary flavor became the favorite of the night. Our main course was ‘roast angus beef’ with elderflower and green tomatoes. For dessert, we chose crème brûlée. The sugar layer was thin and crispy, while the base was flavorful but light as the taste of eggs was not pronounced. We paid around 1000 DKK for four people.

DAY 3-COPENHAGEN AND MALMÖ

We started our day by visiting Rosenborg Palace and its gardens. Rosenborg Palace, built in 1606, is still used to display royal collections, especially jewelry. The garden is also open to the public and serves as a beautiful park. It’s truly commendable to create such a beautiful garden in the country’s challenging weather conditions and keep it open to the public. Afterward, we wandered through the back streets parallel to Stroget, where you can find striking stores of northern fashion brands and designers (Gronnegade, Kronprinsensgade, Pilesstraede, Ny Ostergade, and surrounding streets).

To get a view of Copenhagen from above, we climbed the Round Tower. The entrance fee is 25 DKK. The Round Tower, built between 1637-1642 for astronomical observations by the University of Copenhagen, stands at 36 meters high, with a 210-meter walkway leading to the top. Once you reach the balcony, you can rotate 360 degrees and enjoy a panoramic view of Copenhagen. A telescope is also visible on the top floor. Copenhagen is the birthplace of LEGO, with LEGO meaning “Leg godt,” which translates to “play well” in Danish. LEGO has been a beloved toy for everyone from ages 7 to 70 since 1934. The LEGO store on Stroget Street features life-sized LEGO sculptures.

In the second half of the day, we went to Malmö. After getting our tickets at the train station (89 DKK per person), we enjoyed delicious sandwiches and refreshing fruit juice blends at Joe and the Juice while waiting. Another lunch option could be Grams Laekkerier, but it’s worth noting that it is closed on weekends and shuts down around 3:00 PM on weekdays. The journey between Copenhagen and Malmö is facilitated by the Oresund Bridge and takes approximately 34 minutes. During our visit to Malmö, we explored the city park, Malmöo Castle, and the serene seaside area. The city is small but charming, with a blend of old and new in the technical university building, the sunbathing terraces in front of the congress center, an interesting sculpture, and a peaceful city park that locals prefer for spending weekends.

Later, we walked along the seaside. Swedes, who appreciate nature and have made peace and happiness a lifestyle, were enjoying quality time with their families and friends, just like in the city park. Contrary to our expectations, the Baltic Sea was surprisingly warm, and there were even swans swimming in the sea. Embracing the Swedish way, we also enjoyed the seaside. Afterward, we strolled through the city and returned to the train station.

As the currency in Sweden is the Swedish Krona, we used a credit card to purchase our tickets from the automatic machines (105 Swedish Kronor per person) and returned. For dinner, we had a reservation at a charming French restaurant, Chez Bruno. Accompanied by Saintayme 2011 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, we indulged in a French cheese platter, followed by chocolate and raspberry sauce-covered scallops, and a grilled steak with red wine sauce alongside caramelized wild onions. The total cost for four people was 1180 DKK.

Alternatively, you can visit Christiania in Copenhagen, which has a rather interesting history. A group of hippies and homeless individuals conducted protests NATO in Christiania, developed a unique lifestyle different from society, and after a prolonged struggle, gained a partially autonomous zone in a part of the city. The distinctive feature of this area is that it is the only place in Copenhagen where drug use is allowed, often referred to as the “Green Light District” (a nod to Amsterdam’s Red Light District). The region has its own flag, culture, and a population of about 1000 people. The residents pool their incomes into a common fund and contribute whatever they can afford as electricity and water fees to the government.

Entering the area by car is prohibited, and there are no heating systems in the houses. The region has its own set of rules, and if you plan to visit, it is strongly advised to adhere to them. The most important prohibition is the use of hard drugs. While drugs like marijuana are allowed, using heavier drugs is prohibited for both visitors and residents. In fact, regular drug tests are mandatory, and if heavy drugs are found in their system, the government has the right to close the Christiania area for three months. They earn money by giving concerts to Copenhagen residents a few times a year. Entry of any kind of public servant is also prohibited. Most importantly, taking photographs is forbidden!