JAPAN-2

Japan, one of the most advanced and expensive destinations in the world, stands out as the most unique and original country with its culture, cuisine, language, and way of life. From taxi drivers wearing gloves and decorating their cabs with lace seat covers to capsule hotels that look like they’re straight out of a sci-fi movie, from vibrant cities where millions of people live to handcrafted sushi, Japan has an undeniable charm for those who want to experience, smell, and taste a different culture.

If your destination is Japan, be prepared to encounter arcade halls everywhere, cat and owl cafes where you can show affection by paying, high-tech toilets, purebred dog breeds, bustling intersections where thousands of people cross simultaneously, streets filled with neon signs, bars that can only accommodate 5-6 people in room-like spaces, bamboo forests, ten-story metro stations, and underground cities. Get ready for a journey to another planet!

In this second article related to Japan, I will share the Nara, Hakone, and Tokyo sections. You can access the first article where I talked about the Kyoto, Miyajima, and Hiroshima sections from here.

You can access the second article from here

http://www.gezginbilgin.net/index.php/en/2024/01/24/japan-1

DAY 4-NARA

After breakfast, we went to Nara, the first imperial capital of Japan (710-784). It takes about 45 minutes to reach Nara from Kyoto by high-speed train. From the train station, we took a bus and reached Nara Park in about 8-10 minutes. It’s a pleasant 30-minute walk, with plenty of trees and designated areas for deer, but it involves a slight uphill path. Therefore, we opted to take the bus there and enjoy a walk back.

Nara is famous for its temples and shrines, with remnants dating back to the 8th century. In Nara Park, there are many protected deer considered sacred because it is believed that the God of Kasuga Taisha arrived riding a white deer in ancient times. The large wooden Nandaimon Gate and guardian statues are among the temple’s most important treasures. Deer roam freely around you, adding to the beautiful historical atmosphere.

The Toodai-ji Temple in the park is known as the world’s largest wooden structure. The original Buddhist temple was built during the Nara Period, and the main hall was completed in 752. The current temple, reconstructed in 1709, is only two-thirds the size of the original. Inside the main hall (Daibutsuden) stands the 15-meter-high Daibatsu, Japan’s largest bronze Buddha statue. It is said that 2.6 million people were involved in the construction of this temple, and the weight of the Buddha inside is claimed to be 500 tons. What captures the most attention from tourists is a narrow hole at the base of a wooden column. It is believed that passing through this hole without getting stuck will make your wishes come true. Next to the temple, a slightly elevated position provides a breathtaking view of Nara. The cherry blossoms in the temple’s garden are stunning, and there are a few smaller temples within the complex.

Other places worth visiting include the Kofuku-ji Temple and its adjacent, the country’s second-largest pagoda (the first one is in Kyoto), the National Treasure Museum, and the Isuien Garden along with the Kasuga Taisha and its botanical gardens. The pink and white cherry blossoms create a delightful backdrop in Nara’s mystical atmosphere.

DAY 5-HAKONE

After breakfast, we gathered our belongings and took the bullet train to Hakone. If you sit on the left side of the train in the direction of travel, you’ll be greeted by the majestic Mount Fuji as you approach Hakone.

Hakone, located to the west of Tokyo and part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, is famous for its hot springs (onsen) and Lake Ashi. After getting off the train at Odawara station, we boarded a minibus with our local guide. Our guide surprised us with his flawless English. He also spoke Italian and French, and he mentioned that he was currently trying to learn Greek. In fact, when we first met, he greeted us with well-pronounced Turkish phrases he had written on paper. Our first stop was Joshi Park, where we saw Odawara Castle. The original building dates back to the 15th century. It was once under the control of the Hojo clan but was reclaimed by Japanese territory under Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1590. The castle suffered significant damage in the 1703 earthquake but was rebuilt in 1870. Using drawings from the Edo period, it was restored again in 1960. Despite appearing as three stories from the outside, it has four stories inside. The castle and its surroundings are renowned for cherry blossoms, providing breathtaking views.

On the shores of Lake Ashi, there is an ethnographic section showcasing the historical features of Hakone and presenting glimpses of life from that period. Hakone served as a gateway and security point for Tokyo for many years. Afterward, we had our lunch by the lake.

After the meal, we took a one-hour boat trip on a pirate ship and captured photos of the famous Mount Fuji from the boat.

Mount Fuji, with its height of 3,776 meters, is Japan’s highest mountain. The nearly perfectly shaped Mount Fuji being considered sacred and worshiped, as well as being popular among artists for centuries, is not surprising. The volcanic Mount Fuji last erupted in 1707. On clear days, it can be seen from Tokyo and Yokohama. Mount Fuji, not always visible, is said to be clearer during colder seasons and earlier hours. Unfortunately, during the boat trip, it was hidden behind clouds, but later, we went to a special vantage point by car. Mount Fuji was quite generous in revealing itself to us there. The mountain is open for climbing in July and August.

After that, we delved into art and visited Japan’s first outdoor museum built in 1969, the Hakone Open Air Museum. The museum combines nature and art in a unique harmony, accompanied by a magnificent mountain view. It features both indoor and outdoor spaces, with a special section showcasing Picasso’s works and glimpses of his life through photographs. The museum houses a rich collection of the artist’s paintings, drawings, ceramics, and sculptures. In the 70,000 square meters of outdoor space, you can explore works by Rodin, Calder, Caro, Dubuffet, Miro, Miyawaki, Taro Okamoto, Yasuo Mizui, Churyo Sato, Niki de Saint Phalle, Vangi, and Rosso. It also boasts the world’s largest Henry Moore collection. One of the most popular spots is Gabriel Loire’s 18-meter-high tower, “Symphonic Sculpture”. Although it may seem gray and gloomy from the outside, once you enter, it invites you into a dream world with colorful stained glass. Young travelers are not forgotten either, as there are massive interactive sculptures for children to enter and play.

Afterwards, we settled into our hotel for a traditional Japanese accommodation. Our rooms were quite simple, with only a seating arrangement in the middle of the room. While we were having our meal, the staff prepared futon bedding for us in our rooms. I can’t skip mentioning the toilet in the room. In Japan, all toilet seats are heated and equipped with a water spray feature that allows you to adjust the temperature and intensity. However, this toilet had a unique feature in its flush. The top of the flush was designed as a sink, and when you wash your hands, the water directly fills the flush. It’s a practical approach for water conservation.

The abundance of dishes during dinner surprised us all, and everything was delicious. After the meal, enjoying an outdoor “onsen” is a must. The sulfur-containing water is indeed very hot. Japanese people prefer to enter these baths naked, but there is also a separate pool for those who prefer to wear swimsuits.

DAY 6-TOKYO

We started our morning with a traditional Japanese breakfast. Although I have a fondness for Far Eastern cuisine, I couldn’t bring myself to eat raw fish early in the morning. We passed the morning with small snacks.

After breakfast, we went to Odawara Train Station and took the bullet train to Tokyo. Our guide has chosen the Shinagawa Prince Hotel for accommodation, making our lives much easier due to its proximity to the station.

Once settled into the hotel, our first stop was Senso-ji, a Buddhist temple and one of the most popular and colorful in Tokyo. According to legend, in the year 628, two brothers caught a statue of the goddess of mercy while fishing. Despite returning it to the river, the statue always came back to them. Therefore, the temple was built in 645 in honor of the goddess of mercy and is the oldest temple in Tokyo. The entrance to the temple is through the Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), which is also a symbol of Tokyo with its giant red lanterns. Along the 200-meter historic street (Nakamise) leading to the second gate, Hozomon, there are shops for shopping. The temple is five stories high and hosts numerous festivals throughout the year.

Afterward, we went to Shibuya and saw the famous Hachiko statue and the Tokyo intersections where hundreds of people cross simultaneously. Hachiko was born in 1923, an Akita breed dog. Professor Hidesaburo Ueno, who worked at the Tokyo University School of Agriculture, adopted this dog, and named him Hachiko, meaning eight in Japanese. Hachiko used to accompany his owner to Shibuya metro station every morning and return home. Over time, he also started going to greet his owner at the station in the evening. Professor Ueno suffered a heart attack at work and passed away, but Hachiko waited for him at the metro station every evening for 9 years until his predicted date of death on March 8, 1935, and died at the age of 11 by the metro door.

DAY 7-TOKYO

After breakfast, we started our tour of Tokyo. The first stop was the Imperial Palace East Gardens (the palace where the Japanese Emperor currently resides). Unfortunately, entry is not allowed, but we saw the cherry blossom trees in the East Gardens. The Tokyo skyline looks quite beautiful from the gardens.

With a total population reaching 35 million, Tokyo, the capital of Japan, is also the world’s most populous city. It boasts the best public transportation, and it is one of the cleanest and most organized cities globally. The punctuality of trains is commendable, and the streets are impeccably maintained. The city is filled with parks, gardens, and magnificent public spaces. The Imperial Palace at the heart of the city, especially during cherry blossom season, is a must-visit. Despite being nearly destroyed in the 1923 earthquake and later during World War II, Tokyo, chosen as the capital by the shogunate in the 1600s after Kyoto, stands today as one of the world’s most advanced metropolises.

Following that, we explored the Tsukiji Fish Market and had sushi for lunch.

In the afternoon, we took a boat cruise on the Sumida River. Tokyo is set to host the Olympics for the second time in 2020, following its first hosting in 1964. The construction of the Olympic Village is underway. This boat tour allowed us to appreciate the city’s skyline adorned with pink and white cherry blossoms.

For the last stop of the day, we visited the Edo Museum. Edo Museum, an ethnographic museum, beautifully encapsulates Japanese life and culture within a historical context.

What a delightful surprise it was to reunite with my dear friend Murat from middle school, high school, and university during my trip to Japan. Living in Japan for many years, my friend, whom I hadn’t seen in 30 years, graciously hosted me for a wonderful evening. He welcomed me with elegance and ensured I had an amazing night with his ever-present cheerfulness. Tokyo at night is truly a different kind of beauty.

DAY 8-TOKYO

We started the day with Ueno Park and the Tokyo National Museum. The park had a magical atmosphere as it was the Sakura season. Completely destroyed during the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the Ueno Park reopened its doors in 1873 as the first Western-style Park in Japan. I must mention that the Japanese have a great fondness for picnics, and the traditional Japanese picnic is called hanami.

The Tokyo National Museum, the oldest Japanese national museum, is also Japan’s largest museum and one of the world’s notable art museums. It houses a collection of over 110,000 items, with around 4,000 pieces on permanent display. In the main building, Honkan, you can find costumes, weapons, ceramics, and ancient Buddhist sculptures. The kimonos adorned with elegant handwork are particularly exquisite. The Hyokeikan, the oldest building, houses Meiji-era artifacts. The Toyokan Building showcases Asian art, while the Heiseikan Building, completed in 1993 for the enthronement ceremony, exhibits items related to ancient Japanese culture.

We concluded the day in the world-famous shopping district of Ginza. It was quite different to move away from the historical atmosphere of Japan and witness the unique skyscrapers. The main street of Ginza is closed to traffic on Sundays. People sit in the middle of the street on chairs with umbrellas. Children play joyfully on the road.

DAY 9-TOKYO

Our first destination after breakfast at the hotel was Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the spirit of the last emperor. It is very common among the Japanese to choose Meiji Jingu for weddings to ensure a happy marriage. We saw a bride and groom who had married in traditional Japanese costumes, along with a wedding procession.

Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, was completed in 1920 after their deaths. It suffered damage during World War II and was subsequently rebuilt. Emperor Meiji, the first emperor of modern Japan, played a crucial role in the country’s modernization and Westernization. The forested area surrounding the complex was established with a donation of over 100,000 trees from across the country. The shrine, which welcomes more than 3 million visitors for the first prayer (hatsumode) of the New Year, is also a popular venue for traditional Shinto weddings throughout the year. Inside the shrine, there are two trees symbolizing long-lasting unions. The complex includes a treasure house and an inner garden famous for its orchids. The sake barrels and wine casks at the entrance are also quite intriguing.

Afterward, we went to the lively district of Harajuku, a gathering place for eccentric youth. You enter a different world through the door of diverse costumes, seemingly straight out of cartoons, worn by young people. The crowd is like a sea of people.

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation in Japan can be expensive, but there are alternatives for every budget. Ryokans, traditional, wooden, and minimalist Japanese inns, offer the experience of living like a Japanese, despite being pricey. Standard hotels are, of course, available. For budget travelers, hostels, and capsule hotels, where only a bed is provided with a curtain as a door, can be alternatives. You may also choose a Japanese house arranged according to the principles of Feng Shui. These houses follow the philosophy of having few items and empty corners to allow energy to circulate and emphasize detachment from worldly possessions.

FOOD AND DRINK

First and foremost, you must try Kobe beef. These animals are fed, massaged regularly to prevent them from becoming muscular, and raised in a calm environment with classical music playing, all to ensure the meat is tender and not too lean. Kobe beef is subject to tonnage restrictions in Kobe city. An alternative is Wagyu beef, which we enjoyed during our trip. Japanese people consume a lot of sushi. Eating with chopsticks, a tradition in East Asia for over 6000 years, is referred to as “hashi” in Japanese.

In Japan, drinking tea is a culture, and the tea ceremony is considered art. Japanese pubs are called izakaya. Tempura, originally a Portuguese dish, is made by dipping vegetables and fruits into a special flour mixture with ice water and then deep-frying them in fresh oil. Traditional Japanese noodles, combined with chicken broth and vegetables to make noodle ramen, are very famous. Another dish unique to Japan is miso soup, which contains noodles and a small number of vegetables in clear broth.

 TRANSPORTATION

Japan has woven the country with subways, commuter trains, and high-speed trains. The ease of transfers, the planning of routes, the beauty of terminals, and everything being punctual are awe-inspiring. The total length of all lines is more than 2,500 km. Approximately 300 million passengers travel on these trains every year, exceeding the number of passengers carried by all the high-speed trains in the world. The speed of these trains can reach up to 600 km per hour. To board high-speed trains (shinkansen or bullet trains), you can purchase a ‘Japan Rail Pass (JRP),’ which allows unlimited travel within a specified period. Since English explanations on signs are limited, it’s helpful to use Google Maps or the offline versions of apps like Ulmon.

JAPANESE CULTURE AND FACT

• The number of pets in Japan is reportedly higher than the number of children.
• Sleeping at the workplace is considered a sign of hard work.
• Many hot springs and public baths do not allow entry for individuals with tattoos.
• The amount of paper used for manga (comic books) in Japan reportedly exceeds that of toilet paper.
• Japan has a constitution that rejects war and aggression.
• More than 23% of the population in Japan is aged 65 or older.
• Japan has produced more than 18 Nobel Prize winners, which is commendable.
• Many companies organize morning exercises for their employees.
• The term karaoke, popularized worldwide, means empty orchestra in Japanese.
• Japan experiences over 1,500 earthquakes annually.
• There are more than 200 volcanic mountains in Japan.
• Japanese people consume 85% of Jamaica’s coffee production.
• The country uses American-style electrical outlets.
• Japanese toilets typically have a heated seat, and the bidet feature allows adjusting temperature and pressure. This hygiene practice contributes to lower urinary tract infections in the country.
• Despite social media portraying Japanese commuters reading books on public transportation, this behavior is not as common as depicted.
• Japan has over 1,500 decaffeinated coffee shops, indicating a unique coffee culture.
• In Japan, many transactions are conducted in cash, and etiquette dictates using small trays for handing over money or credit cards instead of directly exchanging them.
• The Japanese work intensely during the day and tend to socialize over drinks at night.
• While Japanese public transportation is highly efficient, the widespread use of smartphones has led to decreased interactions among commuters.
• Japan ranks first in terms of Nobel Prize count, school performance, and IQ test results in a list of the world’s most intelligent countries, according to a UK-based website. Turkey is not included in the list.
• Environmental cleanliness is remarkable in Japan, with virtually no litter on the streets.
• Traffic in Japan moves on the left side, like the UK.
• Taxis can be challenging to find, and advance notification may be required. Taxi drivers often wear white gloves, and seats are covered with lace doilies. Some taxi drivers may not be familiar with the Latin alphabet.