ANDALUSIA

We discovered a place that can splendidly present the characteristic features of Africa, Asia—especially the Middle East—and Europe in a magnificent composition. Moreover, it found the common ground of Islam and Christianity and peacefully lived with all these cultures for hundreds of years without flaunting them in the eyes of the world: Andalusia (Andalucia in Spanish or Andalu in Arabic)…

Located in the south of Spain and, despite being part of Spain, maintaining its uniqueness and autonomy, Andalusia is a region that is quite different from Barcelona and Madrid. It seems to have remained like an Islamic country with the influence of Islam between the years 711-1492, with its architecture, culinary culture, entertainment, and even its way of speaking. Islam, which conquered the lands extending from Damascus to Andalusia in 7 years, took 700 years to give them back. In 711, the North African Berber commander Tariq bin Ziyad, after crossing the Strait of Gibraltar that now bears his name, initiated the birth of an unprecedented era in the conquered Iberian Peninsula. Bin Ziyad ordered to start from scratch, establish a new civilization, and burn all the ships to never return to the African continent. The phrase “burning the ships” in our language derives from this historical event that took place 1300 years ago. The Umayyads (Maghrebians), who recognized freedom of belief for every religion and created an environment for every faith community to live together freely, established a social system that could be considered revolutionary for that time. They reached the pinnacle of science and art with palaces built and inventions made. Many books were translated into Latin by Andalusian Jews, and thus, books on mathematics, chemistry, physics, architecture, and philosophy spread to Europe. Today, experts agree that the foundation of the Renaissance was laid by the Andalusian civilization. Moreover, inventions that are important today, such as paper, silk, gunpowder, and the compass, were also spread worldwide by Muslim Arab traders.

Andalusia consists of 8 cities: Granada, Cordoba, Malaga, Seville, Jaen, Almeria, Huelva, and Cadiz. Spain is a different Europe, and Andalusia is a different Spain. Barcelona and Madrid are the gateways to Spain for tourism. Many travelers visiting the country start their exploration from these two cities. However, these cities are only important players in the colorful history of the Iberian Peninsula in the last few centuries. One of the greatest cultural riches of Spain, and perhaps even Europe, is Andalusia.

Andalusia, the closest point of Europe to Africa, has historically served as a bridge between two continents. Thanks to its fertile lands and location, different cultures have converged in Andalusia. The seeds of civilization in these lands were planted by the Phoenicians and Greeks, who set out from the other end of the Mediterranean. European tribes, Spaniards, and Islamic civilization have lived in these lands. Romans and Jews have passed through these lands, leaving their marks. Finally, they all left something of themselves. Geographies and cultures that seem very distant on paper have mixed with each other in these lands. Many characteristics attributed to today’s Spanish culture have their roots in these lands.

Our Andalusia tour, which lasted a total of 5 days, covered 4 cities. We departed from Atatürk Airport at 9:40 on April 29th and landed at Malaga Costa Del Sol Airport at 13:10. We spent our afternoon here and stayed overnight. The next day, our destination was Granada. After staying one night in Granada, we went to Cordoba, spent the whole day there, and then went to Seville without staying overnight. After spending two nights in Seville, we returned to Malaga and then to Istanbul. We did all these intercity travels by renting a car, but it is also possible to do it by bus (each journey takes 1.5-2 hours). Our return flight was again from Malaga at 14:10 on May 3rd, and we landed at 19:20.

Malaga is the most important port city in the Andalusian region and is conveniently located on the Mediterranean coast, making it suitable for swimming (for those considering taking a dip, don’t forget to bring your swimsuits).

Malaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and the headquarters of the Picasso Foundation is also located in this city. In the Museo de Bellas Artes, you can see some sketches Picasso made during his childhood and works by different Spanish artists. However, since Picasso’s works are present even in the streets, I would recommend experiencing his life instead of visiting the museum.

After a panoramic city tour, our first destination was the historic hill of Gibralfaro, where the city was founded. From this hill, known as Tarik’s Beacon, you can have a bird’s-eye view of Malaga. There are still some remains from the Phoenicians, but most of the standing ruins belong to the Andalusian period. Gibralfaro Castle (Castillo de Gibralfaro) was built during the Taifas rule of Andalusia in the 11th century when the region was divided into small emirates. It was expanded during the Nasrid Dynasty in the 13th and 14th centuries. Gibralfaro Castle is connected to another castle called Alcazaba by a fortified path. This castle served as the residence of the emir during the Arab period.

Malaga has some additional interesting information. In 2016, it was announced that a city in Spain would be designated as the European Capital of Culture, and Malaga was among the candidate cities. If you happen to visit Antonio Banderas’ restaurant, you might even run into the famous actor. Getting from Malaga airport to the city is quite easy with buses and trains. For accommodation, Hotel Del Pintor, located in the heart of the old town, was the preferred choice. This modern, boutique hotel has friendly and helpful staff. You can easily reach any destination within the city on foot. Breakfast is served at a restaurant right across from the hotel, costing 5 euros per person. It takes a 15-minute walk from the train station and bus station, or you can use a taxi for 6 euros to reach the hotel comfortably.

For dinner, the choice was one of the highly recommended restaurants in the city, Tapeo de Cervantes, just a 1-minute walk from the hotel. This restaurant accepts reservations in advance. Our group enjoyed a variety of dishes, including an artichoke quiche made with three cheeses, sea bream fillet wrapped in pumpkin with carrot puree, octopus salad, grilled pork with sweet sauce, and grilled beef with spicy sauce. The wine of choice was Paramo de Casser Reserva 2010, a delightful Spanish wine. Those familiar with Spain know that after a while, tapas offerings can start to look the same, but this restaurant provided creative options. The menu was organized into traditional and non-traditional sections. The total bill for five people was 99 euros. It’s worth mentioning that you are in the tapas paradise of Andalusia. So, forget phrases like “I’m on a diet,” or “Oh, we’re going to wear swimsuits in the summer, we need to be careful”. Just relax, unwind, and savor the magnificent flavors. After enjoying the tapas, our group took a pleasant walk to join the city’s nightlife. The next morning, we rose early to head to their next destination, Granada, which is about a 1.5-hour drive away.

GRANADA (It means Gırnata-pomegranate, it got this name because of its shape)

Granada, the last stronghold of Muslim Spain and a city that stood for over 250 years longer than other Umayyad Kingdoms, marks the final chapter of Andalusian civilization. Its significance lies in surrendering to Ferdinand and Isabella in 1492, which marked the end of the Islamic rule in Spain and added its name to world history with golden letters. Granada, where the cultures of the West and the East blended, is deemed worth visiting, especially for the Alhambra Palace. Nestled like a pearl under the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the Alhambra Palace is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. According to legend, the last Sultan of the Umayyads, Boabdil, and his people, who had to abandon the city 500 years ago, shed so many tears for the magnificent palaces they left behind that it is said no tears were shed for anything else in Islamic history after the tragedy of Karbala.

To experience the Alhambra (The Red Palace) one must both visit it and admire it from a distance. The best place for this is the Mirador de San Nicolas; it’s a public square with the Alhambra in the foreground and the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada in the background. When we visited this place in the late afternoon, around sunset, there was a 10-12-year-old girl performing flamenco dance. She danced beautifully, providing us with a delightful surprise. The mosque right next to the square is also known for its breathtaking view.

The Alhambra Palace, one of the most beautiful and grand creations of Islamic architecture, is, in the words of a French scholar, a speaking palace… And it speaks with the voice and words of the holy book. Verses from the Quran are intricately and elegantly carved into the walls, with “La galib illa Allah” (There is no victor but Allah) written in almost every section. Each room and every part carries its own unique atmosphere while harmonizing seamlessly with the others.

Christopher Columbus, the adventurous navigator, convinced Queen Isabella of Spain to sponsor his westward voyage, and this expedition was financed with the treasures seized from the Alhambra Palace. The wealth of this palace contributed to the discovery of a whole continent. The palace consists of four main parts: Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces, Partal, and Generalife. Alcazaba, the fortress part of the palace, has a rising section with the Torre de la Vela, the clock tower, where you can have the best panoramic view of the city. Although not as grand as the rest of the palace, it holds historical significance for the Alhambra. The Nasrid Palaces, located at the heart of the Alhambra, are the most famous section, featuring details and beauty in the craftsmanship that are beyond words. The well-preserved state of the magnificent Alhambra is truly commendable.

It’s essential to buy tickets for the Alhambra Palace online before the trip (www.alhambradegranada.org). Tickets are sold for morning and evening entries. There are also time restrictions to prevent too many people from entering the Nasrid Palaces simultaneously, ensuring the protection of the remarkable artifacts inside. When purchasing tickets, you need to choose the exact time you want to visit the Nasrid Palaces. Just being in line 15 minutes before your chosen time is sufficient, as visitors without the correct time slot, even if waiting in line, are not allowed in. The gatekeepers go through the line calling visitors for their designated time.

The most important and perhaps the most famous part of the Nasrid Palaces is the Court of the Lions (Patio de Los Leones), named after its 12-lion fountain. This courtyard, where Andalusian architecture and art reach their peak, captivates everyone with its delicate marble columns and stonework. The Partal Gardens, the summer residence of the Nasrid kings, and the Generalife are the other two sections. These magnificent gardens, filled with pools and fountains, are a must-visit. Afterward, for fantastic photo opportunities, head to the Albayzin district to observe the Sierra Nevada mountains and the enchanting red walls of the Alhambra from a distance.

Albayzín (Albaicín) is the old town of Granada, with its labyrinthine winding streets and whitewashed houses. The district is enlivened by crowded and lively squares, and it stands out with its tea houses, locally known as Teteria, offering Maghreb-style mint tea service (the familiar mint-lemon, and quite sweet; but if you like it, it’s definitely worth trying).

We didn’t have the chance, but among other things you can do:

Alcaiceria: A silk bazaar dating back to the time of the Arabs. You can shop in an atmosphere similar to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.

La Madrasa: The front façade of the former Islamic University is worth photographing due to its architectural beauty.

For lunch, we ate at a restaurant next to your hotel and the Alhambra Palace. We’ve tried the flavors unique to Andalusia, such as gazpacho and sangria, which was a great experience. Gazpacho, a type of cold soup with added tomato juice, is a refreshing choice for lunch in hot weather. Sangria, on the other hand, is a lightly alcoholic cocktail with fruit, both refreshing and slightly sweet.

For dinner, we chose Tasca El Conde and the Senorio De Nevada 2009 wine. We paid 65 euros for five people, enjoying traditional and delicious tapas. Our accommodation choice was Hotel Guadelupe, right next to the Alhambra Palace. The hotel’s authentic features and friendly staff made us very happy. The rooms were spacious and very clean, and the Wi-Fi worked perfectly. If you book a room without breakfast, you have the option of a buffet breakfast for an additional 9 euros. You spent the night in Granada after a day of rest, as you had traveled early in the morning to Cordoba and spent the entire day there before heading to Seville in the late afternoon.

Cordoba, founded by the Romans, became the center of olive oil, wine, and wheat trade for centuries due to its strategic location on the Guadalquivir River. The Roman Bridge (El Puento Romano) is one of the city’s symbols and was built during the Roman era. However, Cordoba’s real rise began during the Umayyad Caliphate. Located in the heart of Andalusia, Cordoba was one of the world’s most populous and cosmopolitan cities in the 11th century. During that time, Muslims, Christians, and Jews lived together in harmony, and the city became a major center for scholars, philosophers, and artists, making it the hub of science and art in the Iberian Peninsula and Europe. It was a city with almost every house having a library, hospitals, baths, and schools, characterized by cleanliness and brightness. Cordoba gained fame as the capital of the Caliphate of Cordoba, and it was also known for having Europe’s first university and the first urban lighting system.

La Mezquita (Cordoba Mosque-Cathedral) was our first point to visit. It is both magnificent as a mosque and as a church. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, Cordoba, despite being a relatively small and boutique settlement today, hosts the spectacular La Mezquita, which was the world’s largest mosque in ancient times and is still the third-largest mosque/cathedral in the world. The word Mezquita in Spanish, like more than 2,000 other Arabic words, comes from the Arabic word masjid, meaning mosque. Construction of the mosque began in 786 during the reign of Umayyad Sultan Abdurrahman I and took 200 years to complete. The mosque has 1,293 columns and can accommodate 32,000 people. When Cordoba invaded by Christians in 1236, a large part of the mosque was converted into a church. In the 16th century, King Charles V converted the building into a cathedral by dividing it into two and damaging many elements. Fortunately, Charles V did not harm the breathtaking mihrab (prayer niche) on the southeast wall, and it has survived to this day in all its glory. The mihrab, with its magnificent craftsmanship and details, is the most visited and photographed part of the structure. The transformation of La Mezquita from a mosque to a cathedral is considered one of the greatest wounds Islam suffered against Christianity (I wonder if Fatih Sultan Mehmed, who conquered Istanbul, thought of Cordoba Mosque when standing in front of Hagia Sophia – with this conquest, Islam somewhat equalized its status with Christianity). It is possible to relax under the orange trees in the mosque’s courtyard called Patio de los Naranjos. In ancient times, the courtyard had date palm trees and fountains, which over the centuries transformed from a date palm orchard to an orange orchard, with fountains giving way to this pool.

Cordoba has narrow streets, white houses, and many courtyards. The most beautiful courtyard competition is held from April to June. During our visit, there was a competition, and it was possible to find and see the candidate courtyards through street signs.

‘Barrio de la Juderia’, Yahudi mahallesi, eski ‘Cordoba’nın tam göbeğinde. 1492’te İspanya’dan sürülen Sefaradların izlerini taşıyan ‘Juderia’ gezmeye değer. Bu bölgede İspanya’da ayakta kalan sinagogları gezmek mümkün. İspanya şu anda bir özür mahiyetinde ülkesinden kovduğu Sefaradların vatandaşlık başvurularını kabul ediyor. ‘Juderia’a da bu nedenle gereken önem verilmeye başlamış sanırım, bölgede küçük çaplı da olsa restorasyon çalışmaları vardı. ‘Cordoba’dan ayrılmadan yahudi mahallesinde seferad mutfağının da tadına bakalım istedik. Restaurantımız Casa Mazal. Rezervasyon kabul ediyor. Avlulu bir Cordoba evi. Zeytinli ekmek ve nefis zeytinyağı ile başlayan yemeğimiz buzlu sangrialarimiz eşliğinde körili tavuklu-sebzeli bulgur ve özel sosunda dana eti ile devam etti. Yemeğimizi beyaz çikolata şelalesi ile sonlandırdık. Yemekler gerçekten mükemmeldi. Yemeğimize 5 kişi 70 euro ödedik.

• ‘Ağlama Angelita bu akşam ya sana bir ev alacağım ya da yasımı tutacaksın…’ der Cordobes ablasına hayatının en önemli mücadelesi için arenaya çıkarken (Dominique Lapierre, Yasımı Tutacaksın adlı kitabından). Buraya kadar gelmişken El Cordobes-Cordobalı diye anılan meşhur boğa güreşçisi Manuel Benitez’i anmadan olmaz. Dalida’nın El Cordobes için söylediği şarkıyı da unutmayalım.

• Küçük bir not daha, turistik eşya satın almak için Cordoba en pahalısı. Ürünlerin aynıları diğer şehirlerde de mevcut.

Diğer Bilgiler

Medina Azahara Harabeleri

Corodoba’ya şehir merkezine 5 km uzakta çok kısa bir zaman önce keşfedilmiş bir yer altı şehri. Kazı çalışmaları hala devam ediyor.

Alcazar Sarayı

13. yüzyılda, Kral 11. Alfonso tarafından yaptırılan saray, 15. yüzyıla kadar kraliyet ailesi tarafından ev olarak kullanılıyordu. Nefes kesici antikaları, iki geniş bahçesi ve hamamlarıyla mutlaka görülmesi gereken bir yer.

Plaza Corredera

‘Cordoba’nın en güzel meydanlarından biri kabul edilen bu meydan Cordoba’da ilk boğa güreşinin gerçekleştirildiği yer. Şimdilerde cafe ve restoranlarla dolup taşan meydan, meydana çıkan dar sokaklar arasında kalmış irili ufaklı dükkanlar ve sahaflar ile capcanlı bir atmosfer sergiliyor.

Patios Müzesi

‘Plaza Don Gome’da, 14. yüzyıldan kalma bir sarayın bahçesinde yer alan muhteşem müzede, palmiye, portakal, selvi ağaçları ve çiçeklerle bezenmiş 12 avlu yer alıyor. Ayrıca 17 bahçesi bulunan saray Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana (Plaza de Don Gome 2) da görülmeye değer. İspanyolca ‘çiçek yolu’ anlamına gelen Mezquita Çan Kulesi manzarasına nazır Calleja de las Flores sokağı, bembeyaz duvarlardan sarkan rengarenk çiçekler ile bezenmiş.

Tendillas Meydanı

Eski Musevi Mahallesi ve şehrin modern yeni yüzü arasında sıkışıp kalmış bu meydan adeta şehrin kalbi.

Medina Califal Hamamı (Corregidor Luis de la Cerda 51)

Müslüman mimarisinin en güzel örneklerinden birisi olan bu hamam, Avrupanın en eski ve büyük hamamlarından birisi

Boğa Güreşi Müzesi

Plaza de Maimonides’de yer alan müze Cordoba’da gelenekselleşen boğa güreşi tarihine ışık tutuyor.
Manzara

Göz alıcı bahçeler, Guadalquivir nehri ve Roma köprüsü ve panaromik şehir manzaları için ‘Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos’de yer alan ‘Torre de los Leones’ veya ‘Torre de Homenaje’ tepelerine çıkabilirsiniz.

Los Sotos de la Albolafia

Guadalquivir nehri üzerinde yer alan ‘Puente Romano’ ve ‘Puente de San Rafael’ köprülerinden geçerek, nehirde yer alan ufacık ‘Los Sotos de la Albolafia’ adasını ziyaret etmek mümkün. Eskiden un değirmenlerine ev sahipliği yapıyormuş.

CORDOBA LEZZETLERİ

• Cordoba’da, özellikle de sıcak yaz günlerinde, yenecek en doğru şeylerin başında Gazpacho ve Salmorejo geliyor. Bunlar zeytinyağı ve çeşitli sebzelerin karışımından yapılan soğuk çorbalar. Cordoba’nın en önemli yiyeceği jambonu da (jamon) unutmamak lazım.

• Tapas dünyasından seçmeler: Fritura de pescada (kızarmış balık ve deniz ürünleri, üzerinde limon gezdirilmiş), Salpacion de mariscos (farklı deniz ürünlerinden yapılmış, soğan, balsamik sirke ve kırmızı biberle şenlendirilmiş soğuk salata), almendras fritas (kızarmış tuzlu badem), banderillas (küçük şişlere geçmiş deniz ürünleri, soğan, zeytin, sebze çubukları; bir seferde yenmeli), albondigas (domantos soslu bir köfte)…

• Bal ve bademden imal edilen Alfajores, yağda kızartılmış, üzerine bal dökülerek yenen Pestinos, Cordoba mutfağının Arap etkileri taşıyan meşhur tatlılarından.

Cordoba’dan gün batmadan Sevilla için yola çıktık. Çünkü, yol boyunca gördüğümüz manzaralar diğer yolculuklarımızda olduğu gibi gerçekten etkileyici. Ufka kadar uzanan zeytinlikler, sapsarı tarlalar, küçük çiftlikler ve yer yer söğüt ağaçları… Yol kenarlarında zakkumlar… Sevilla ile Cordoba arası yaklaşık 2 saat (Beri taraftan İspanya’nın ekonomisi kötüye mi gidiyor diye kafa patlatan yetkililere sesleniyorum-her taraf tarla tapan yapmakla, leb-i derya arazilere zeytin ağacı dikmekle bu iş olmaazzz! Biraz bizden feyz alın! Böyle değerli arazilere otel olur, tatil köyü olur, yazlık ev olur-bol bol kondurun. Turizm canlansın, ekonomi hareketlensin. Zeytin dediğin nedir ki, yemeyi verin!!!).

Other places to visit in Cordoba:

Barrio de la Juderia (the Jewish Quarter), is right in the heart of old Cordoba. It carries the traces of Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain in 1492. In this area, you can visit the synagogues still standing in Spain. Spain currently accepts citizenship applications from Sephardic Jews it expelled from the country. There were restoration works, albeit small-scale, in the area. Before leaving Cordoba, we wanted to taste Sephardic cuisine in the Jewish quarter. Our restaurant was Casa Mazal. They accept reservations. It’s a Cordoba house with a courtyard. Our meal, starting with olive bread and delicious olive oil, continued with chicken-vegetable bulgur with curry and beef in a special sauce, accompanied by our frozen sangrias. We ended our meal with a white chocolate waterfall. The food was truly excellent. We paid 70 euros for 5 people for our meal.

“Don’t cry, Angelita, tonight I will either buy you a house or mourn you in my arms…” says Manuel Benítez “El Cordobés” to his sister sister as he enters the arena for the most important fight of her life (Dominique Lapierre, from the book “Don’t Cry, Angelita”). While we’re here, let’s not forget about El Cordobés, the famous bullfighter. And let’s not forget the song that Dalida sang for him.

A little note, Cordoba is the most expensive place to buy souvenirs. The same products are available in other cities as well.

Medina Azahara Ruins: Located just 5 km from the city center of Cordoba, this underground city was recently discovered. Excavations are still ongoing.

Alcazar Palace: Built in the 13th century by King Alfonso XI, the palace was used as a residence by the royal family until the 15th century. It is a must-see place with breathtaking antiques, two large gardens, and baths.

Plaza Corredera: Considered one of the most beautiful squares in Cordoba, this square is where the first bullfight in Cordoba took place. Nowadays, the square is filled with cafes and restaurants, surrounded by small shops and second-hand bookshops, creating a lively atmosphere.

Patios Museum: Located in the garden of a palace dating back to the 14th century in Plaza Don Gome, this magnificent museum features 12 courtyards adorned with palm, orange, cypress trees, and flowers. The palace, Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana (Plaza de Don Gome 2), with its 17 gardens, is also worth a visit. Calleja de las Flores street, meaning flower alley in Spanish, adorned with colorful flowers hanging from whitewashed walls, offers a view of the Mosque Bell Tower.

Tendillas Square: This square, squeezed between the old Jewish quarter and the modern face of the city, is like the heart of the city.

Medina Califal Bath: (Corregidor Luis de la Cerda 51) One of the most beautiful examples of Muslim architecture, this bathhouse is one of the oldest and largest baths in Europe.

Bullfighting Museum: Located in Plaza de Maimonides, the museum sheds light on the traditional bullfighting history in Cordoba.

For best views of gardens, the Guadalquivir River, the Roman Bridge, and panoramic city, you can climb to the Torre de los Leones or Torre de Homenaje peaks in the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos.

Los Sotos de la Albolafia crossing the Guadalquivir River via the ‘Puente Romano’ and ‘Puente de San Rafael’ bridges, you can visit the tiny island of ‘Los Sotos de la Albolafia’ in the river, which used to host flour mills in the past.

CORDOBA DELIGHTS

In Cordoba, especially on hot summer days, Gazpacho and Salmorejo are among the best choices. These are cold soups made from a mixture of olive oil and various vegetables. Don’t forget Cordoba’s most important food, jamon (ham).

Selections from the tapas world: Fritura de pescada (fried fish and seafood with a drizzle of lemon), salpacion de mariscos (a cold salad made from various seafood, onions, balsamic vinegar, and red pepper), almendras fritas (fried salty almonds), banderillas (small skewers with mixed seafood, onions, olives, and vegetable sticks; should be eaten in one go), albondigas (meatballs in tomato sauce)…

Alfajores, made from honey and almonds, and pestinos, deep-fried and drizzled with honey, are famous desserts in Cordoba’s cuisine with Arab influences.

We set off for Seville from Cordoba before sunset. The landscapes we saw along the way were truly impressive, as in our previous journeys. Olive groves stretching to the horizon, golden fields, small farms, and occasional willow trees… Oleanders along the roadside. The journey from Cordoba to Seville takes about 2 hours.

SEVILLE (BETIS)

A saying goes, “The capital of Spain is Madrid” and continues, “but Seville is the capital of the world.” Seville is undoubtedly the most important city in the region and the 4th largest city in Spain. This beautiful city on the riverbank has served as the capital for the Romans, Visigoths, Umayyads, and Spaniards. Today, Seville, the capital of the autonomous region of Andalusia and the Guadalquivir Valley, is home to more than 1.5 million people, including its surrounding suburbs. The use of solar energy is widespread in this affluent city, and its economy is supported by various sectors, including small industries, agriculture, olive farming, wine production in the Guadalquivir Valley, shipbuilding, jute production, mercury, military material production, as well as ceramics.

Like all cities in Andalusia, Seville is a pedestrian paradise. Thanks to our hotel, Hotel Derby, located in the heart of the city, we could reach everywhere on foot. The hotel is large and comfortable, with nearby parking for those traveling by car (all our hotels had this feature). If you have made a reservation without breakfast, the hotel’s breakfast costs 10 euros. After leaving our luggage, we went to see Metropol Parasol, one of the finest examples of modern architecture, which was only a 3-minute walk away. Later in the evening, we enjoyed the city’s nightlife. For our first dinner, we chose Vinerio San Telmo. We sat in the garden, sipping our wine accompanied by caramelized onions, melted Castuero cheese, Foie Gras, and beef carpaccio, enjoying the pleasant weather. Afterward, we went to Hotel XIII. Alfonso to listen to jazz at its bar. In 1929, during one of Spain’s darkest periods, a fair was organized to bring together its former colonies. This luxurious hotel was built to host the distinguished guests of the fair and is named after King XIII. Alfonso. It was truly beautiful.

The next morning, we set out to explore the city. Among the must-see places in Seville are Seville Cathedral, the Real Alcazar, and Plaza de España. The Santa Cruz District, an old Jewish quarter spreading around the cathedral, is also a very aesthetic, romantic, and special place with its labyrinthine streets, tapas bars, iron-grilled windows called rejas, flower-filled houses, fountains in courtyards, and beautiful cafes. Triana is the heart of entertainment and the birthplace of flamenco.

When Muslim Arabs seized these lands in 711, they converted churches from the Visigothic period into mosques. Later, after the Reconquista in 1248 by King Ferdinand III, many of these structures were converted back into churches. The transformations on these buildings, primarily religious structures, reflected on civilian architecture, giving rise to the Andalusian style. Years later, Sevillian architects combined this nostalgic formation reflecting the spirit of the region with modern architecture. The most significant example of this approach is the famous architect Hanibal Gonzales’ work, built in 1929 and also created for the National Iberian-American Exhibition, the Plaza.

In Sevilla, you can see the NO8DO inscription everywhere, and it became famous through the legendary King Alfonso X. During a rebellion, the slogan “No madeja do” meaning “They haven’t abandoned me” uttered by the people of Seville who supported him turned into a tangible symbol. The NO8DO sign is present everywhere, from municipal officials’ hats to monuments, buses to taxis, pavement stones to Christopher Columbus’s tomb.

Seville Cathedral and Giralda (Catedral de Santa Maria & Giralda) are Seville’s most magnificent structures. The cathedral located in the Santa Cruz district, was built by demolishing the old Andalusian central mosque. Muslims who had to withdraw from Seville couldn’t forget this mosque they left behind, and they built a similar one in Marrakech, Morocco. It is one of the world’s largest Gothic cathedrals, surpassed in size only by the cathedrals of San Pietro in Rome and St. Paul’s in London. Construction began in 1401 and lasted for 100 years. The tomb of the revered Spanish king Ferdinand III, Capilla Real, is in the inside the cathedral. At the south entrance of the cathedral, there is the tomb of the famous explorer Christopher Columbus, who discovered the American continent. When Spain gained independence, Columbus’s remains were transferred from Havana (Cuba) to Seville. If cathedral entrance tickets are purchased online in advance, you can avoid the hassle of waiting in a long line under the sun. There are discounts for students and those over 65. On the north side of the cathedral, there is the garden, Courtyard of Orange Trees (Patio de los Naranjos), where the ablution taps of the old mosque are located. However, the real symbol of Seville is the Maqribi-style minaret remaining from the old mosque, and it is now called the La Giralda bell tower. This structure, the original minaret of the old mosque, has a church bell added to its top. It gets its name from the weather vane with a female figure on top. The weather vane represents a belief and symbolizes the city. You can climb to the observation deck at the top of Giralda by ascending 35 ramps, each about 10 steps. Enjoy the panoramic view of Seville from the top. In Seville, all roads lead to Giralda. If you get lost in narrow streets, your path will somehow lead you here.

Golden Tower (Torre del Oro): For some, it’s believed to be the place where gold brought from America was stored, while for others, its name, Golden Tower, comes from its facade being covered in gold in the past. But the more realistic explanation might be that it is called the Golden Tower because of the golden-yellow color it takes on during sunset, as it used to guard ships that could enter the city.

Plaza de Espana: Located in Maria Luisa Park, one of the city’s oxygen-filled parks, it was built to represent the Kingdom of Spain at the 1929 fair. This place has a massive courtyard with twin towers rising on both sides, and a fountain in the middle. The buildings surrounding the courtyard are covered with tiles depicting drawings of all regions and cities of Spain. Right next to it is America Square (Plaza de America). There are plenty of street vendors around, making it a good spot for touristy souvenirs (not referring to the original hand-painted ones).

Alcazar: Located right behind the cathedral, it’s a fascinating garden where the scent will make your head spin. Flowers, trees reaching for the sky, peacocks, and fishes… Some scenes from Lawrence of Arabia were shot here. It’s the most important monument of Mudejar, the architectural style unique to Andalusia.

Plaza de Toros: The bullfighting arena. Bullfighting, born in Ronda, a mountain village near Malaga, was developed in Seville. Like in every region of Spain, bullfighting continues to compete head-to-head with football here.

For the second evening meal, we went to La Azotea. It was another place highly recommended on many gourmet websites. We had grilled mixed vegetables, jumbo shrimp in sherry sauce, slow-cooked pork cheek in red wine, and sirloin. Our wine was Taberner 2011, a Cadiz wine. The flavors were truly amazing. We paid 130 euros for this meal.

Flamenco is said to have originated in Seville. The cultural mix of Andalusia turns into music and dance in flamenco. Guitar, dance, melancholic but passionate songs. The provocative sounds emanating from the heels of women and men. A crowd that sometimes becomes passionate. Just as it should be. Flamenco shows lasting 2 hours are held at the Flamenco Museum. It’s advisable to buy tickets in advance. If this duration seems long to you, Casa de Memoria is also recommended. The shows last for 1 hour.

For non-touristy hand-painted fans (Abanico), you need to go to Casa Rubio, Calle Sierpes 56. Also, Abanicos Diaz at Sierpes 71 and Lina at Lineros 17 are recommended.

Cafe Robles Laredo is ideal for a coffee and cake break.

On the old city side of the river, mansions built in the early 1900s and magnificent bridges are among the most important symbols of the wealth of that period.

After the National Expo Fair held in Seville in 1992, the city grew rapidly and was organized. The Guadalquivir River, once a frequently flooding river, causing damage around it, is now like Seville’s beach with its appearance and canoe races held on it. Because during the summer months, the greenery along the river is also the most preferred place for sunbathing, cycling, walking, and sports.

Seville’s cuisine is quite delicious, consisting of different flavors. Its proximity to the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean, the constant warmth of its climate, and the abundance of olive oil are the main reasons why its cuisine is so tasty and diverse. Starting with dishes with olive oil, fish fried in olive oil, pescado blanco (white river fish) that tastes like whiting, salmorejo cordobes (bread-crumb creamy cold soup), chocos con habas (broad beans with white wine and bay leaves), small shrimp pastries, gazpacho (cold tomato soup), pato de la Sevillana (duck with onions, leeks, and carrots), rabo de toro (oxtail stew), and for dessert, tocino de cielo, a caramel-covered divine dessert unique to Seville, are just a few examples.

On the short street Las Sierpes, there are famous Spanish shoe and clothing stores, as well as elegant boutiques. The building at the beginning of the street is architecturally very impressive. This is a bank building, but its story dates back many years. This building was used as a royal prison hundreds of years ago before it became a bank, and the famous novel “Don Quixote” by Cervantes was written here, in a tiny cell.

Siesta starts at 14:00 in the afternoon, which is also lunchtime. Gift shops and restaurants are open.