BURGUNDY (BEAUNE-VONNAS)

The enjoyment of good wine and fine dining has been at the heart of Burgundy’s culture for thousands of years. Burgundy is a region where you can taste the most special flavors of French cuisine and savor the finest wines. Moreover, the region offers a rich alternative compared to the rugged coasts of Northern France, the bright lights of Paris, and the sun-soaked villages of Provence, accompanied by the magnificent views of ancient vineyards and medieval villages.

During our journey to savor the region, our route took us first to Beaune and then to Vonnas.

The area between Dijon and Macon in Burgundy is known for hosting the best vineyards. We traveled north from Lyon to our first stop, the Côte de Beaune region. Located 45 km south of Dijon, the region is particularly known for cultivating Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. The vast vineyards and the white vineyard houses scattered among them create a picturesque scene. It’s possible to visit farms that have been producing wine for centuries and participate in wine tastings.

Burgundy’s vineyards are divided into two main regions, known as Beaune and Montbard, collectively referred to as Côte-d’Or. Beaune, a small medieval town surrounded by vineyards, is renowned as the wine capital of the region. Located 40 km south of Dijon and reachable within 2 hours by train from Paris, Beaune is situated at the heart of the Côte de Beaune vineyards. The region from Beaune to Dijon is called Côte de Nuits, predominantly known for Pinot Noir grapes and red wine production. The southern part extending from Beaune is named Côte de Beaune, focusing mainly on Chardonnay grapes for white wine production. It is known that Burgundy has 30,000 hectares of vineyards, and the region is famous for producing monovarietal wines, meaning wines made from a single grape variety. The best time to visit Beaune is during the grape harvest season from September to November, but the city offers beauty that will delight visitors throughout the year.

Beaune is adorned with flowers, featuring charming narrow streets like a labyrinth, historic cellars storing the world’s most prestigious wines, magnificent mansions, and Michelin-starred restaurants, making it a favorite destination for wine enthusiasts. Stepping into the city feels like entering a fairy tale.

The Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu, with its iconic architecture, draws attention to its construction order given in 1443 by the Chancellor of Burgundy Duke Nicholas Rolin and his wife Guigonne de Salins to provide health and care services to patients, orphans, and the elderly after the Hundred Years’ War. The institution, which admitted its first patient on January 1^st, 1452, remained one of the most important centers in Europe until it modernized its medical activities in 1971. The two-story wooden building with its Gothic façades and ornate glazed tiles on the impressive roof has been a symbol of Burgundy even in the Middle Ages.

During the establishment, Nicholas Rolin’s priority was to have separate infirmaries for patients and caregivers, and to ensure an adequate number of beds in all rooms. Contrary to the commonly accepted view of medieval hospitals, Rolin saw the infirmary not as a place to die but as a healing place. Therefore, he ensured the functioning of a dedicated and loyal community of women to take care of the needy and appointed a head nurse to manage the hospital.

All services at Hospices de Beaune were provided free of charge. To make this possible, Nicholas Rolin donated saltworks, agricultural land, vineyards, and wooded areas to the institution. Additionally, many nobles and wealthy individuals who chose to be treated here contributed significant donations when they recovered. Today, the institution, used as a museum, is visited by approximately 400,000 people annually. Not only is it known for its wines, which earn about 4 million euros a year, but also for continuing to support the museum’s maintenance expenses, local charities, and taking over the responsibility of supporting the Beaune Hospital through the proceeds from the famous wine auction.

When you arrive at the square where Hospices de Beaune is located, simple stone walls greet you from the outside. The golden details and wind roses under the Gothic roofs of the buildings’ towers and roof windows are the first clues that visitors are about to enter a wonderland. Giant-mouthed grotesques are placed at the corners of the awnings covering the entrance doors, aiming to scare away evil trying to enter.

As you step through the door, the famous roofs adorned with Burgundian architecture’s hallmark interlocking geometric patterns of red, brown, green, and yellow glazed tiles create a visual spectacle around the courtyard.

The first point of visit is a vast dormitory with cathedral-like proportions, known as the Room of the Poor. The rectangular hall is lined with dozens of beds end to end along its two long sides. The beds, separated from each other by red curtains, each have a wooden nightstand at the head and a chair at the foot. On the nightstands, there is a tin plate, a bowl for drinking water, and a pitcher, as was customary at that time.

The oak-paneled ceiling, resembling an inverted ship’s keel, is 16 meters high and supported by 12 beams emerging from monstrous head carvings at each end. The atmosphere of the dormitory, designed to heal both the body and the mind and soul, is further emphasized by the chapel placed at the end of the hall. The floor tiles depict the phrase seule etoile (only star) with the word seule and a six-armed star following it, symbolizing Nicholas Rolin’s love for his wife and emphasizing that she is the only one in his thoughts. The same slogan is also engraved on the walls of the chapel. In the stained glass details and embroideries, the intertwined initials N and G, representing the names of the benevolent couple, and their family coat of arms with a blue shield featuring three golden keys and a golden castle turret, are depicted. Guigone de Salins, upon her death, was buried in the tomb beneath this chapel as per her request. One of the details in the hall that impressed me the most is the painting, The Convalescent, from 1910 by artist Henri-Jules-Fean Geoffroy, depicting the nurse’s tranquility and the little girl’s gratitude, which is very moving.

The second dormitory, named St. Hugh and commissioned by the generous benefactor Maître Hugues Bétauld, consists of 12 beds. Both the walls and the ceiling are adorned with paintings by Parisian artist Isaac Moilion depicting religious miracles.

In this hall and the following section, a wide selection of medical instruments from the Middle Ages to the present day are exhibited.

The most valuable piece in the museum is the polyptych titled The Last Judgement, which was originally created for the altarpiece of the chapel in the Room of the Poor but is now displayed in a separate room. This 15th-century work of art consists of 9 panels and depicts the Day of Judgment. It was created by the Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden.

Outside, there are also 6 separate panels representing Nicolas Rolin and Guigonne de Salins in prayer. This oil painting, measuring 5.5 meters in length, is considered one of the artist’s most important works.

Great care has also been taken for the kitchen, which forms the heart of the service. The bed of the La Bouzaise River was altered to pass beneath the kitchen. In 1698, the famous clockmaker Dufresne designed a device to automatically turn the meat roasting in the kitchen’s fireplace. The automation, ruled by a tiny puppet named Sir Bertrand, is quite fascinating. The pharmacy stored many mysterious plants with medicinal properties in magnificent clay pots on large wooden shelves. The laboratory, the place that intrigued me the most professionally, had a giant copper still, a variety of mortars, bottles, and scales of different specifications.

The Halle Square, right in front of the museum, constitutes the heart of the city with its numerous shops. On Saturday mornings, a market is set up here where local products are sold.

The old town of Beaune is surrounded by well-preserved walls that stretch for 2.5 kilometers. A walk along the walls allows you to see the open-air theater (Théâtre de Verdure), various city gates like Porte Saint-Nicolas, sculptures, Lions Square with its large trees, and Beaune Castle.

Beaune’s wines are so delicious that, according to rumors, the reason for Erasmus settling in France was not to lead armies but to enjoy Beaune wine. The ancient Greek poet Agathias once said, “Only a woman’s kiss can give greater pleasure than the Great Burgundy wine.”

One of the most famous cellars is Les Caves Patriarche, founded in 1780 by Jean Baptiste Patriarche. Located in a 17th-century building that used to be a monastery, the cellar houses thousands of barrels and over three million bottles in a 5-kilometer-long tunnel underground. During tastings, old oak barrels are used as tables. You can taste the wines on them and take the ones you like from the shelf. The tasting progresses from the simplest wine to the most refined. Even if you are not a wine lover, if you find yourself in Burgundy, don’t leave without trying a tasting. After all, as Louis XIV once said, “Burgundy wine is the wine of kings.”

The region is particularly known for the production of Comté and Morbier cheeses. To buy various cheeses from the region, you can visit Alain Hess on Carnot Square in the old town. Starting from small family businesses to rural manor restaurants and Michelin-starred establishments, there is a wide range of options to taste the local flavors. Additionally, Beaune is known for mustard production. If you find yourself in Beaune and wish to buy mustard, the address is La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot.

PLACES TO VISIT

Notre Dame Church (Notre Dame de Beaune Collegiate): Built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century with Gothic additions, this church is adorned with 15th-century wall tapestries depicting different stages of the life of the Virgin Mary and a Black Virgin statue dating back to the 12th century.

Burgundy Wine Museum (Musée du Vin de Bourgogne): Housed in a building that still preserves the regional architectural features used as a residence by the Dukes of Burgundy from the 13th to the 16th century, the museum is entirely dedicated to wine and winemaking from ancient times to the present. It features viticulture tools, winemaking equipment, and a beautiful carpet collection.

Fine Arts Museum (Le musée des Beaux Arts): A small museum that allows you to discover the rich cultural heritage of the region, hosting notable works of art. The collection includes masterpieces by local painters like Félix Ziem.

WINERIES

Louis Jadot: Established in 1859 by Louis Henry Denis Jadot, this winery is still a family business that produces and markets Burgundy wine. The first vineyard purchased by the Jadot family was Clos des Ursules in the Beaune vineyards in 1826. It remains a family-owned company, both managing their own vineyards and sourcing grapes from other growers, totaling approximately 670 acres of vineyards.

Joseph Drouhin: Established in 1880, this winery has vineyards in Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, and Côte Chalonnaise, as well as in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. They also source grapes from different growers. Today, both Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin Oregon are operated by the Joseph Drouhin family. The grape press used in the winery has been operational since the 16th century.

Having an organic certification since 2009 for all the grapes produced in their vineyards is a noteworthy commitment to sustainable and environmentally friendly practices. It seems like they have received recognition for their efforts with numerous award-winning wines. Organic certification often reflects a dedication to both quality and responsible agricultural practices.

Patriarche: The extensive cellars dating back to the 13th century and the magnificent 17th-century chapel at Patriarche sound fascinating. It must be a unique experience to explore a wine cellar with such a rich historical background and artistic elements. The combination of history, architecture, and wine culture seems like a remarkable blend at Patriarche.

Patriarche’s extensive range of wines from Chablis to Beaujolais, coupled with their rich historical background and passionate expertise, certainly makes it a notable winery. Exploring the cellars, experiencing the artistry in the chapel, and tasting wines from different regions within Burgundy must offer a comprehensive journey through the world of wine at Patriarche.

FOOD and DRINK

Clos du Cèdre: A delightful culinary experience, especially with its unique architectural setting in a magnificent 19th-century vineyard house. Awarded a Michelin star in March 2022, the restaurant honors local producers and offers a seasonally evolving menu for gourmands to discover the secrets and flavors of local gastronomy. Led by Chef Jordan Billan and his team, the restaurant is also renowned for its wine list, featuring over 600 references, highlighting the distinguished place of Burgundy wines. From starting with asparagus to continuing with mushroom chicken and regional cheeses, concluding with Burgundy saffron pear chocolate, your dining journey appears to be a delightful exploration of Burgundian flavors.

Le Carmin: A charming dining spot, nestled on the ground floor of a picturesque old house on Carnot Square, not far from Hôtel-Dieu. With a modern facade and a Michelin star, Chef Christophe Quéant, drawing from his experience with renowned chefs like Robuchon and Ducasse, crafts modern, seasonal dishes rooted in traditional culinary principles. Transforming the finest ingredients into simple yet refined flavor celebrations, the restaurant offers a contemporary-styled dining room with a beige color scheme and exposed stone craftsmanship. Your dining experience, featuring caramelized quail breast and leg, white asparagus, baby carrots, and a warm Grand Marnier soufflé, sounds like a delightful culinary journey.

Le Benaton: A remarkable dining experience with its Michelin-starred status. Chef Keishi Sugimura, a Japanese chef with a passion for pure Gallic cuisine and quality French wines, has received training in Japan and even holds a world championship title. His meticulous approach to processing seasonal ingredients with almost surgical precision, transforming them into classic recipes rich in complementary flavors, reflects a unique creative line. The fact that the chef’s wife is also a chef adds an intriguing dimension to the culinary artistry at Le Benaton.

Loiseau Des Vignes: A delightful restaurant, earning its place in the Michelin Guide. Your lunch experience with smoked salmon, egg prepared with peas and sabayon, lamb shank with mustard and potato foam, and a chocolate ball sounds like a culinary delight. The charming touch of a small hidden garden adds to the overall appeal of the restaurant.

Vonnas, our second destination on this journey, seems to be a heaven for those who wish to indulge in gastronomic delights, thanks to the renowned chef Georges Blanc and his 3-star Michelin restaurant. Originally from Bourg-en-Bresse, Chef Georges Blanc has created a small empire in Vonnas, offering a world of delights with his bakery, pastry shop, gourmet boutique, restaurant, and hotel. The peaceful and serene village of Vonnas, adorned with colorful flowers, adds to the overall charm of this gastronomic haven.

It also has a delightful park with a pond, adding to the scenic beauty of the surroundings.

The mornings in Vonnas are truly captivating.

Chef Georges Blanc’s restaurant has held 3 Michelin stars since 1981. The flavors are exceptional. In each bite, the flavors spread layer by layer with a balanced depth. It’s like unraveling the mystery of a story that becomes more flavorful with every bite, leaving you to solve the mystery with each taste.