ROUEN AND GIVERNY

The dance of colors on canvases has always fascinated me. Especially as a devoted follower of the Impressionist movement, I enjoy discovering their works in the museums I visit and standing in front of the paintings, getting lost in sweet reveries. To see the places depicted by the Impressionists, to breathe the air they breathed, and to witness the kaleidoscope of colors, I decided to follow in their footsteps in the northern regions of France. I organized this route, covering both Paris and its suburbs, with accommodation and dining mainly in Paris, conducting day trips. This way, I could also allocate time to visit dining spots recommended by a famous local blogger. Although I had taken the trip last spring, due to my busy work schedule and subsequent travels, I only found the opportunity to compile and write about it now.

Firstly, let me briefly explain Impressionism. Impressionism is an art movement that dissolves the world in light and divides it into colors. It is not about drawing the precise outlines and copying what is seen, but rather about conveying the impression and emotion left in the inner world onto the canvas. Pioneers of the movement, including Monet, Renoir, Sisley, Pissarro, Manet, and Cézanne, aimed to reflect not a direct reproduction of external visual perception, especially in an era when the camera was developed to produce exact images, but rather the nuances and fragments of associations that linger in our minds from the physical world.

In the Impressionist movement, painters who ventured outdoors aimed to capture the vibrations of daylight on objects—the fleeting, variable impressions. As a result, their palettes became illuminated, transforming their paintings into dazzling displays of light and color. They depicted the seven colors that make up daylight onto their canvases without resorting to black for shadows, emphasizing that shadows, in fact, have their own tonalities. According to them, objects don’t have fixed colors; they can take on hues of red, blue-green, or brown depending on the light they receive, whether it’s a mermaid in the sea or the facade of a cathedral or a pile of grass.

DAY 1-ROUEN and LES ANDELYS

The Normandy region, located in the north-west of France, is renowned for its magnificent coastline overlooking both the English Channel and the Atlantic Ocean. The colorful and charming towns of Normandy, along with its beaches and cliffs where the ebb and flow of tides occur, have served as models for Impressionist painters for many years.

Rouen, situated approximately 140 km away from Paris, is a small city with streets steeped in history, built on the Seine River. It takes about 1 hour by train from Paris St. Lazare station. Known as the central city of the region for many years, Rouen played a significant role in French history, starting with the Bourbon period that began with Henry IV and ending with the revolution of 1789 during the reign of Louis XVI.

There are a few more features that make this small city so important. Firstly, the Rouen Cathedral, painted by the famous French impressionist Claude Monet, whom I greatly admire. Secondly, the city square ‘Place du Vieux Marche,’ where Joan of Arc, who fought against the English during the Hundred Years’ War was burned at the stake on charges of witchcraft, and centuries later was given the title of saint. Thirdly, the medieval clock tower ‘le Gros Horloge’ (you can climb to the top for a panoramic view).

In the location where Rouen Cathedral stands, there was a church in the 4th century. Over time, this church was expanded, and in the year 769, Charlemagne visited the site. Vikings seized the city in the 9th century, establishing the Duchy of Normandy here and enlarging the church while adding the St Romain tower. Struck by lightning and left in ruins, a new cathedral was built in the 12th century to replace it, only to be destroyed by fire as well. The cathedral, which endured multiple lightning strikes and fires, was restored while preserving its Gothic structure. Holding the title of the tallest cathedral until 1880, it eventually lost this distinction to the Cologne Cathedral. During the Second World War, it was bombed first by the British and then by the Americans. The St Romain tower was damaged, and even the bells melted.

The French Impressionist Claude Monet painted the Rouen Cathedral as a series at different times of the day and year. The artist conducted his preliminary studies in the streets facing the cathedral, renting spaces there during 1892-1893. In 1894, Monet completed the final versions of the paintings in his studio. Choosing 20 out of the total series of over 30, he exhibited them in a gallery in Paris, where 8 of the works were immediately sold. Notable Impressionist artists of the time, Pissarro and Cézanne, attended the exhibition and praised the series.

It is known that when Monet created the ‘Rouen Cathedral’ series, he had long been fascinated by the effects of light on objects, influenced by the changes over time and atmospheric conditions. He even believed that the impact of light on an object was more important than the object itself. His series of works, including this one, is considered evidence of this belief. Monet mentioned the challenges of creating series paintings in his memoirs, revealing that he had nightmares and entered an impossible cycle of trying to notice a new detail every day and adding it to the paintings. Of the 26 pieces from this cherished series that I’ve located and identified, I must express that I have personally seen 9 of them, each one being breathtaking in its own right:

• ‘The Portal (Grey Weather)’-Musee d’Orsay
• ‘The Portal in the Sun’-special collection
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (Symphony in Grey and Rose)’-National Museum of Wales, Cardiff
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal in the Sun)’-National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal in the Sun)’-Metropolitan Museum of Art
• ‘Rouen Cathedral’-Pushkin Museum, Moscow.
• ‘Rouen Cathedral’ (End of the Day, Sunlight Effect)-Musee Marmottan, Paris
• ‘Rouen Cathedral’- special collection
• ‘Rouen Cathedral’-Narodni Muzej, Belgrade
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal and the Tour d’Albane)’-Musee des Beaux-Arts, Rouen
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal and the Tour d’Albane, Morning Effect)’- Musee d’Orsay
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal, Morning Effect)’-Beyeler Gallery, Basle
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal and the Tour d’Albane at Dawn)’-Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Cathedral in Fog)’- special collection
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal)’-Pushkin Museum, Moscow.
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal)’-National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal, Morning Fog)’-Museum Folkwang, Essen
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal, Morning Effect)’-Basil P. Goulandris, Switzerland
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal, Morning)’-Fujikawa Gallery, Tokyo
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal, Harmony in Blue)’- Musee d’Orsay
• Rouen Cathedral’ (Sunlight Effect)- Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal)’Kunstsammlungen Schlossmuseum, Weimar
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal at Midday)’-Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown.
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal)’- special collection
• ‘Rouen Cathedral (The Portal and the Tour d’Albane in the Sunlight)’- Musee d’Orsay
• ‘Rouen Cathedral’-London Christie’s, 1995

After exploring Rouen Cathedral, we decided to take a short break. The ‘Dame Cakes’ on the side street of the cathedral’s graveyard charmed us with its pastoral atmosphere. I highly recommend this place where two women sell their handmade tarts, cakes, and sweets, beautifully integrated with delightful decoration. The magnificent dessert buffet and an extensive tea menu excited all of us. The only drawback was that they didn’t speak English. We chose various tarts from the diverse selection based on their appearances, and different teas accompanied our choices. Those who know me are aware that I don’t drink tea. However, when I saw the Impressionist tea on the tea menu, I immediately ordered it, thinking that maybe if I drink it, I could create paintings like that. But it didn’t work! Still, I must mention that the tea with plenty of lavender and chamomile was exquisite.

Born in 1412 as the middle daughter of a farmer’s family, Joan of Arc left home at the age of 16 and joined the French army fighting against the English in the Hundred Years’ War after passing an examination by a council of clergy. Particularly notable for her contributions during the Siege of Orléans, she earned the epithet ‘Maid of Orléans.’ Captured by the English in 1431, she was accused of witchcraft and burned alive in the city center after a trial by the inquisition court established in Rouen Cathedral. In 1979, a church with modern architecture was built on the site where she was burned, which is quite impressive. 490 years after her death, the same church that had issued her death sentence declared her a saint. All the court records, both before and after her death, to preserve her name, are now stored in the National Library of France. When compared to other figures of her time, she is one of the most well-known individuals, and her story has been the subject of numerous films.

Rouen is also the birthplace of an important writer. Gustave Flaubert, recognized as one of the founders of the modern novel and particularly known for his famous work “Madame Bovary”, was born here in 1821. Except for the five years he spent studying law in Paris, he lived in Rouen throughout his life. The writer’s house has been turned into a museum and is located at 1, Rue Lecat, off Boulevard des Belges.

While in Rouen, there are many places in the surrounding area that you can visit. Dieppe, a charming seaside resort, is just a 45-minute drive away. Les Andelys is a famous medieval town hosting a castle. Honfleur, another option, is located 90 km west and is known as a 17th-century port city. Le Havre is a city recognized for its architectural treasures on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Bayeux, famous for its tapestries, is reachable by a two-and-a-half-hour train journey. Giverny is a town hosting Monet’s House. Lastly, Lille is renowned for its museums. In short, there are options to suit every taste.

My choice was Les Andelys. This town, situated on the banks of the Seine River, is approximately 100 km from Paris and 40 km from Rouen. If you want to see one of the most beautiful landscapes in the northern part of France, with its limestone hills and the valley carved by the Seine River, you are in the right place. The town, as suggested by its plural name, consists of two parts: ‘Grand-Andely’ and ‘Petit-Andely.’ ‘Grand-Andely’ was a Roman city, serving as a cultural and religious center, while ‘Petit-Andely’ was established along with the famous castle of the town and holds entirely Norman characteristics. It’s an ideal spot for delightful walks along the Seine River, offering a magnificent view. Additionally, the ruins of Château Gaillard on the hills of the town are historically significant.

Transportation is quite convenient, and you can reach Les Andelys by bus from the Gaillon Aubevoye and Vernon Train Stations on the Paris-Rouen line. Both stations have bus services, with line 220 operating four times a day on weekdays and Saturdays, including stops at Gaillon Aubevoye, where line 290 provides seven services a day. There is also a bus, line 530, that runs once a day between Rouen and Les Andelys. The distance between Gaillon Aubevoye Station and Les Andelys is approximately 15 km, and a taxi ride costs around 30 euros.

Château Gaillard was designed by the Duke of Normandy and King of England, Richard the Lionheart, and built in record time between 1196 and 1198. Constructed to defend the town of Rouen against King Philippe Auguste of France, the castle was meant to symbolize the strength and invincibility of its creator, Richard. However, despite the confidence of the formidable I. Richard, it could only stand for a few years (By the way, the tomb of Richard the Lionheart is in Rouen Cathedral). After I. Richard’s death, the castle, besieged for the first time in 1203 under the leadership of the new French king, Philip, witnessed its inhabitants being left to die, forced to endure hunger and cold.

Until 1449, the castle changed hands repeatedly between the French and the English during the Hundred Years’ War and was even used as a royal palace at one point. The last owner of the castle was King Henry IV. The person who ordered the destruction of the castle was none other than Cardinal Richelieu. It is possible to reach the ruins on foot or by vehicle, and the views along the way are breathtaking. Since 1862, the castle has been considered one of France’s important cultural heritages and is open to visitors from March 15 to November 15.

Another must-visit in this town is the Grand Andely Notre Dame Collegiate Church. This church was constructed in the 13th century, taking approximately 500 years to complete, replacing the first Norman church built in 511. The stained glass windows of the Gothic church, dating back to the 16th century, are a true masterpiece of art. The wooden organ, carved in 1573, is also worth seeing.

Another remarkable site to explore is the ‘Petit Andely Saint Sauveur Church.’ Construction of this church, built for the use of approximately 3000 workers during the castle’s construction, began in 1198 and was completed in just 4 years, opening its doors in 1202. The structure, made from a single piece, is described by architectural authorities as a simple jewel.

The Sainte Clotilde Miraculous Spring in the town square has an interesting story. Legend has it that during the construction of the first Norman church, dating back to 511, workers complained about the heat and thirst. Saint Clotilde, the wife of King Clovis, began to pray, and miraculously, a spring of water appeared during the excavation. Not only that, but as a result of her prayer, the water turned into wine to quench the workers’ thirst!

Walking along the Seine River is a must. The St. James Hospital, built in 1780 and located on the riverbank, is quite intriguing. The riverside has been a source of inspiration for many Impressionist painters, with one of the most famous being Paul Signac. In Signac’s early paintings, you can see Impressionist influences, but later, he abandoned the short brushstrokes typical of Impressionism, influenced by Georges Seurat’s work, and started creating paintings with many small color dots placed side by side. These dots, selected from a limited number of primary colors, could intentionally be combined to create various intermediate colors. Signac thus embraced the Pointillist style, becoming one of the founders of Neo-Impressionism or Post-Impressionism. Signac has a series of works depicting Les Andelys, and one of them can be seen at the Musée D’Orsay. It’s worth mentioning that Signac once visited Istanbul, was a guest of Şeker Ahmet Pasha, and painted scenes of Istanbul during his stay.

If you’re asking where to eat here, La Chaine d’Or is a renowned French restaurant with a history dating back to 1751.

DAY 2-VERNON and GIVERNY

The city of Vernon and the natural wonder of the village Giverny are like a corner of paradise in France, much like many other places in the country. However, there is one more significant feature here. The famous Impressionist painter Claude Monet, whom I greatly admire, spent the last 43 years of his life in his house in Giverny, continuing his work. Therefore, Impressionism enthusiasts visiting Paris and having the opportunity should definitely see Giverny and Monet’s house. For those considering including his house in their travel plans, I should warn in advance that visitors are accepted from late March to early November, and tickets must be purchased in advance. It’s a place that attracts considerable attention from a diverse audience, with around 600,000 people visiting each year.

The distance from Giverny to Paris is 80 km. It is possible to reach Giverny by using the highway with a private vehicle. However, it’s noted that taking the route through Cergy, especially turning left from Magny-en-Vexin and deviating from the main road, offers breathtaking views. For those using public transportation, they can take a train from Saint Lazare Station and reach Vernon in about 40-60 minutes. After exploring Vernon a bit, a 5 km walking path leads to Giverny. There is also a shuttle service starting from the station. Coming to Vernon by train is easy because you board at the first station, but returning to Paris can be a bit cumbersome. The return train likely departs from Le Havre, so the train usually arrives at the station full, and finding a seat on the stairs when boarding at Vernon can make you feel lucky. Of course, this is especially valid for summer and weekends.

Giverny is a typical Normandy village with its old stone houses, cobblestone streets, and flowers hanging from balconies. The focal point of this small village, home to about five hundred people, is Monet’s house. If you are a big fan of the master like me, seeing the environment where he created his works, walking through his gardens, and living almost inside his paintings is like a dream. Additionally, if you are a nature enthusiast, the burst of colors in Monet’s gardens will deeply impress you, and the garden of the house will be a paradise for you.

Monet lived in this house with his second wife Alice and their eight children from 1883 until his death on December 5, 1926, a total of 43 years. The house, with its green shutters and pink-painted exterior, has a longitudinal plan and is quite modest, but the garden it is surrounded by is so beautiful that one can’t help but be deeply impressed. In addition to many works, this house has another significance. Claude Monet created those famous large water lilies paintings at the Orangerie Museum in this studio. You enter directly into the garden from the front door and find yourself in a heavenly place. In my opinion, starting the tour from Monet’s house before losing yourself in the beauty is the best approach.

You ascend the green-stepped stairs of the house, first reaching the veranda, then entering inside. All the rooms in the house offer a splendid view of the sloping garden. Continuing to the left on the ground floor, the most impressive section is the large salon, once used as Monet’s studio. A massive window on the opposite side floods the interior with wonderful light. Beautiful paintings adorn the walls, although Monet’s true collection is displayed at the Musée Marmottan. Going upstairs and entering Monet’s bedroom, you continue to the left. Dazed by whether to admire the interior decoration or the garden landscape, you wander in awe. One of the loveliest corners in the house is a small area arranged as a sewing room. After touring the upstairs rooms in sequence, you descend to the lower floor and move to the other side of the house. In this section, a charming dining room in yellow tones awaits you. Right next to it, there is a magnificent kitchen with blue-white colors and copper utensils hanging on the walls.

With the kitchen, the indoor tour of the house comes to an end, and you step out to the veranda through the kitchen door. Now it’s time to get lost in the garden known as Le Clos Normand (Normandy Garden). When organizing his garden, Monet didn’t arrange the flowers in groups but rather grouped them according to their colors and color contrasts, allowing them to form pleasant marriages and grow freely, so to speak. Monet, proud to be not only a good painter but also a good gardener, engaged in a lifelong exchange of plants with his friends and always pursued rare species. He particularly researched hard-to-find blue-colored flowers and reflected them on his canvases.

The garden is explored along a specific walking path, which makes sense for the preservation of the garden. When you descend to the very bottom of the garden, you should turn around and look back at the house; those with a bit of talent might be eager to start sketching immediately, I’m sure. At this point, I can almost hear you asking, “Where are these water lilies?” Descending the stairs at the bottom right corner of the garden and crossing to the other side of the path through an underground passage, we reach the second beautiful part of the garden, Jardin d’Eau (Water Garden). Monet acquired this land in 1893 and incorporated it into his garden, arranging it with all the curves and asymmetries seen in Japanese gardens. The Japanese bridge you will see, the water lilies in the pond in the right season, and the reflections of the sun and clouds on the water will make you feel like you’re in a painting by Monet. At this point, we truly grasp how the Impressionists saw the effects of light on materials differently from us mere mortals.

Monet would navigate his boat in the artificial pond he created, shaping the water lilies as he pleased, and then paint them (the boat still stands by the edge of the lake). He would fill his wheelbarrow with canvases and move them to different locations throughout the day depending on the light conditions. Philip Piguet, Monet’s grandson, said about his grandfather, “He created a microcosm in Giverny, and he was at the center of everything. When he started a painting, life was organized around it. Unable to tolerate his children touching the flowers, he would send them to other people’s gardens. Another noteworthy point is that, for the first time, an artist shaped nature before painting it. In other words, Monet created his works related to this garden twice.”

When Monet passed away on December 5, 1926, his house, paintings, and the Japanese art collection he had gathered became the inheritance of his only living son, Michel Monet. Michel, known to be somewhat indifferent, showed no interest in the property and preferred chasing lions and tigers on African safaris. As a result, Monet’s stepdaughter and the widow of his eldest son, Blanche, along with the head gardener Lebret, took charge of the property. After Blanche’s death in 1947, the garden was left completely neglected, and, figuratively speaking, the wild nature reclaimed it. Michel Monet died in a car accident in 1966, leaving the entire estate to Académie des Beaux Arts (French Academy of Fine Arts).

Until the necessary funds for maintenance and restoration were secured, all works were safeguarded in the Musée Marmottan, which, as mentioned earlier, still holds the most significant Monet collection. With the support of donations and guidance from the Claude Monet Foundation, the property underwent renovations. Ponds were re-excavated, and significant earthwork was carried out in the Le Clos Normand section before flowers were replanted based on Monet’s paintings. After fourteen years of work, Monet’s house opened its doors to art enthusiasts on June 1, 1980.

The originator of the quote “Perhaps I owe becoming a painter to flowers”, Claude Monet’s life is also noteworthy. Born in Paris in 1840, Monet moved to Le Havre with his family when he was five. His interest in nature can be traced back to his childhood, and he began drawing at a young age. Learning oil painting from Eugene Boudin was a significant turning point in Monet’s life. Following his mother’s death, Monet moved back to Paris to live with his aunt at the age of 16. During this time, he frequented the Louvre but chose not to imitate the masters; instead, he preferred to paint what he saw outside the window. The emerging Impressionist painter Edouard Manet supported Monet in this approach.

Monet began formal art education in 1862, but he was disappointed with the traditional approach. He started exploring innovations with newly acquainted artists like Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Frédéric Bazille, and Alfred Sisley. These young painters, focused on light, shifted from directly depicting light to capturing the impression it created on their canvases, marking a significant change in art history. They held their own exhibitions, and when the organizers asked Monet about the name for one of his paintings, he replied, “I don’t know, I just watched the sunrise.” This response led to the famous painting “Impression, Sunrise” and became the namesake of the Impressionist movement. You can enjoy this painting at the Marmottan Museum.

Monet experienced two major wars in his lifetime: the Franco-Prussian War and World War I. Influenced by these events, the artist began to insistently paint water lilies to symbolize “life in the face of death”. He dedicated these paintings to the French people. Monet is now one of the most highly valued painters, with his works selling for the highest prices. In 1905, his painting “Nympheas” (Water Lilies) sold for $43 million at a Christie’s auction in New York, while his work “Le Bassin Aux Nympheas” (The Water Lily Pond) sold for $80.4 million at a Christie’s auction in London in 2008.

In Giverny, in addition to Monet’s house, the Museum of Impressionism (Musée des Impressionnismes) is a must-visit. As part of the tour in Giverny, you can also visit Monet’s grave. To do this, after leaving Monet’s house, turn left and walk straight ahead. Monet’s modest grave is on the right in the garden of Saint-Radegonde Church.

For lunch, the Restaurant Baudy, located in an old hotel, is a delightful option. Its backyard, in particular, has the ambiance of a charming countryside restaurant. The hotel section continues uphill, and there’s a wonderful art studio in the middle of the garden. Indeed, one of the most remarkable features of rural France is how art is seamlessly integrated into everyday life. By culture and art, I don’t just mean creating beautiful homes adorned with flowers. Culture and art are integral to life. The French know how to live and enjoy life, and they beautifully showcase this, regardless of monetary considerations. It’s a reflection of knowledge, refinement, and the transmission of culture through generations.

DAY 3-MUSÉE D’ORSAY, MUSÉE ORANGERIE, and MUSÉE MARMOTTAN

After our tour of the places that inspired Impressionist painters in the Parisian countryside, it’s now time to see the paintings themselves. Musée D’Orsay is indeed a fantastic destination with its impressive collection of Impressionist paintings and Art Nouveau furniture. Housed in a former train station along the Seine River, the museum offers a unique setting to explore the works of renowned artists. The section dedicated to Orientalist painters on the ground floor, including a painting by Osman Hamdi Bey, adds an extra layer of cultural richness. Booking your tickets in advance allows for a smooth and efficient visit, avoiding any unnecessary time wastage. As you wander through the museum, contemplating how a train station could be repurposed in such a spectacular way, it’s hard not to reflect on the missed opportunities with other iconic stations that were not in use.

Musée de l’Orangerie is indeed a gem located at the southwest entrance of the Tuileries Garden near the Seine River. Housed in the former orangery of the Tuileries Palace, the museum showcases an impressive collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings. The roster of artists includes luminaries like Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred Sisley, and Maurice Utrillo. Among the highlights are, of course, Monet’s enchanting water lilies. These masterpieces are truly breathtaking.

Across from the museum, at the northwest entrance of the garden, you’ll find the former tennis court building now serving as the contemporary art museum, Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume. This venue could be particularly appealing to those with an interest in modern art. Enjoy your exploration of these rich cultural spaces!!

The next stop in the afternoon is the Musée Marmottan. To get there, walk to the Tuileries Metro Station, take Line 1 (towards La Défense), transfer at Franklin D. Roosevelt station to Line 9 (towards Pont De Sévres). Get off at La Muette station, take the N1-Chaussée De La Muette exit, and then walk about 500 meters for approximately 7 minutes. The museum, resembling a detached house, houses an elegant collection of paintings and decorative objects. Enjoy exploring this unique and tasteful collection!

FOOD and DRINK

Otel Le Pradey: Its proximity to the Louvre Museum and the Tuileries Gardens, as well as the charm of the hotel, seem to make it a delightful choice. Watching the sunrise over the Louvre or Tuileries Gardens must indeed be a fantastic experience. And if you’re a fan of Angelina’s hot chocolate, having it within walking distance adds an extra layer of enjoyment. The delicious breakfast is another plus. It sounds like you’ve found a lovely place to stay in the heart of Paris!

Fromagerie Danard-It is a delightful place with a selection of wines and cheeses from all over France. The intimate setting with only five tables adds to the charm, and the possibility to shop for these delights makes it even more appealing.

Daroco- With its modern Italian cuisine and delicious pizzas, this restaurant is a must-visit spot, especially with its distinctive flavors and impressive decor.

Le Souflé– Focusing on sweet and savory soufflés, it is like a charming place, particularly for those who are enthusiasts of this delightful dish.

‘La Chaine d’Or’-In Les Andelys

‘Dame Cakes’-In Rouen

‘Restaurant Baudy’-In Giverny