LYON

Lyon, known as the oldest city in France, is also a gateway to the Burgundy region where you can taste the most special flavors of French cuisine and enjoy the finest wines. Located in the southeast of France at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers, Lyon is the capital and administrative center of the Rhône-Alpes region. Positioned right in the middle of the north-south-east-west axis in France, Lyon attracts travelers with its rich historical past, the historic center Le Vieux Lyon, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Michelin-starred restaurants offering the flavors of world-famous chefs, lively street life, and colorful murals, all without the long queues and high prices you might encounter in Paris.

The best time to visit Lyon is during the spring and summer months, but the city also experiences a high influx of visitors in December due to the famous Festival of Lights.

Founded in 43 BC as Lugdunum by Lucius Munatius Plancus, a Roman senator and consul, Lyon was initially settled by the Gauls in ancient times. In 1032, it became part of the Roman Empire and was later included in the Kingdom of France in 1312. Lyon experienced significant economic development in the 15th century, becoming one of the most important cities of its time with the arrival of the printing press. In the 17th century, Lyon, a major center for silk production in Europe, still holds a crucial position in silk weaving. The city flourished further during the Renaissance and, despite a period of stagnation during the French Revolution, fell under the rule of republican forces in 1793. Napoleon Bonaparte played a key role in Lyon’s urban development, which we explore today. The prosperity that returned in the 19th century suffered a setback during World War II, but Lyon regained momentum in the 1950s, becoming a hub for gastronomy, as well as a significant player in the chemical, pharmaceutical, and automotive industries in modern times.

There are direct flights between Lyon and Istanbul. Additionally, you can reach Lyon from Paris by high-speed train in approximately 3 hours. Named after the beloved author of “The Little Prince”, Lyon St. Exupery Airport offers transportation to the city via the Rhoneexpress train. It is more cost-effective to purchase a round-trip ticket. For the metro, a separate ticket is required. Moreover, with the Lyon City Card, you can opt for a bulk purchase instead of individual metro tickets.

Lyon is not a very small city, but it has an efficient public transportation network consisting of metro, buses, trams, and even a funicular. Therefore, while the choice of accommodation is not critical, the area between the old town district or the island’s central Bellecour Square and Hôtel de Ville is the most convenient for walking everywhere.

We began our exploration of Lyon with the old town (Vieux Lyon), which has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1998. Comprising three main centers—Saint Jean, Saint George, and Saint Paul—this area along the banks of the Saône River captivates travelers with its colorful Renaissance-era buildings, vibrant squares, cobblestone streets from the Middle Ages, surprising passageways, and charming restaurants.

If you start from Rue Saint George, Place de la Teatre will be one of the first tiny and charming squares you encounter at the entrance of Vieux Lyon. Continuing from here, you gradually enter the boundaries of the Saint Jean area. Rue Saint-Jean and Rue des Trois Maries are the most ideal streets for a leisurely walk. When you reach Place Saint-Jean via Rue Tramassac, you will arrive at Saint-Jean Square and the point where you can capture the most beautiful photos of the cathedral.

Lyon Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste) is the jewel of the old town area. Construction of the cathedral began in 1175 and was completed in 1480. The Saint Jean Cathedral features stunning stained glass windows dating back to the early 12th century. Additionally, the sunlight filtering through the large rose window added in 1392 transforms the interior into a spectrum of colors. The facade of the cathedral, in a Romanesque structure adorned with late Gothic embellishments, adds to its architectural beauty.

One of the most fascinating elements is the astronomical clock installed inside the cathedral in 1598 by Nicolas Lippius. It not only displays the time, date, and positions of the moon, sun, and earth but also indicates the positions of the stars over Lyon.

The bell, named Anne-Marie de la Primatiale and made in 1622, is one of the largest bells ever made and is only rung on special Catholic holidays. The cathedral has been a historical monument since 1862 and has been listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1998. For capturing photographs of the cathedral, you can use the setup near Bonapart Bridge (Pont Bonaparte). The beauty of the twin towers of the cathedral is truly captivating from this vantage point.

The route from Saint Jean Square to Saint Paul Square will shape itself according to your preferences. If you get overwhelmed by the liveliness of Rue St. Jean, you can switch to the slightly quieter Rue du Bœuf using Lyon’s surprising passages, which run parallel. When you reach Saint-Paul Station, you will have explored a significant part of Vieux Lyon. If you want to see Old Lyon from above, you can climb up to the middle of Montée Saint-Barthélémy hill, right next to Saint Paul Station. Early morning is excellent for taking photographs in the Vieux Lyon area, but if you want to feel the liveliness of the area, you should wait until the afternoon.

Museums you can visit in Vieux Lyon, if interested:

• Musée Miniature et Cinema (open every day).
• Le Petit Musée de Guignol: Those interested in puppets can visit this small museum (open every day, opens at 14:30 on Mondays).
• Musée Gadagne: Lyon History Museum (Musée d’Histoire de Lyon), puppet museum (Musée des Arts de La Marionnette), and a section for temporary exhibitions. The museum is housed in a 15th-century mansion and is open between Wednesday and Sunday.

One of the most interesting aspects of old Lyon is its famous traboules, or passageways. Many of these are closed to the public and are private property. If you prefer to explore these with a guide, it’s better to join paid hourly tours. Here are some traboule addresses that you can explore personally

• 10-14 Rue de la Bombarde
• 3, Place St. Paul
• 7-10-11-12 Quai Romain
• 6, Rue des Trois-Maries
• Tour Rose

The area known as Fourvière, where the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière) is located, can be reached by taking a tram or using the funicular from the Vieux Lyon metro station. The Fourvière Hill, also known as the Hill of Prayer, hosts the remains of a Roman settlement, including a theater, a bath, and an Odeon, dating back to that period. Despite more than 2000 years passing since the construction of the ancient theater, it is still used for performances. The basilica, one of the most iconic structures in the city, visible from many points in Lyon, was built by the people in the period between 1872 and 1884. The commitment was to build a church if the city were spared during the war between France and Prussia. The basilica is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and its designer is Pierre Bossan. The structure, representing the main virtues, has four towers, each forty-eight meters high. The towers of Prudence (North-East Tower) and Temperance (South-East Tower) overlook the city of Lyon. The other two towers, Force (North-West Tower) and Justice (South-West Tower), dominate the square.

The interior of the basilica is adorned with magnificent mosaics and splendid paintings featuring Baroque elements.

After exploring the interior, you can climb the northeast tower for a magnificent view of Lyon’s cityscape.

If you want to explore the Hotel de Ville-Presqu’il-Bellecour area create a nice walking route by crossing to the opposite shore from Saint-Paul with Pont de la Feuillée and walking from Hôtel de Ville to Bellecour Square. This route is called Quartier Chic by the French. It forms a beautiful contrast to the lived-in feel of Vieux Lyon with its wide avenues adorned with luxury stores.

Lyon, a significant silk center since the Middle Ages, is known as the silk capital of Europe. Silk products are still colored with hand printing. There are many workshops that provide demonstrations in this regard. Near Place Louis Pradel, L’Atelier de Soierie Lyon is a delightful workshop where you can see and shop for Lyon-style framed painting, hand painting, and block printing.

Place des Terreaux is one of Lyon’s most beautiful squares, featuring the City Hall (Hôtel de Ville), the Museum of Fine Arts, and the magnificent Bartholdi Fountain. Guided tours are available for City Hall. The Lyon Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts), built in the second half of the 17th century within the walls of a Benedictine monastery, houses works by French, Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters. Artists such as Rubens, Degas, Cézanne, Manet, Renoir, Gauguin, El Greco, and Pablo Picasso are among those whose works are displayed in the museum’s 70 exhibition rooms, covering diverse collections from ancient art to modern times, including coins and medals. The museum’s terrace is ideal for leisure in good weather (Address: 20 Place des Terreaux, closed on Tuesdays).

The Bartholdi Fountain, a magnificent creation by sculptor Bartholdi in 1892, stands on the square. The fountain, particularly captivating during winter months when water features are displayed, creates an impression that the horses in the fountain are alive. Lyon’s legendary opera house, Opera de Lyon, is located just behind this square on Place de la Comédie. Constructed in 1831 by Antoine-Marie Chenavard and Jean-Marie Pollet, the opera house underwent a complete restructuring and expansion by Jean Nouvel between 1989 and 1993, earning the architectural project the Prix d’Équerre d’argent award in 1993. The neoclassical building has a public tearoom and restaurant (Address: 1 Place de la Comédie).

Saint-Nizier Church (Église Saint-Nizier de Lyon) has a history dating back to the 2nd century. Rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th-15th centuries, the church was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1840 (Address: 1 Rue Saint-Nizier).

Turning back towards the river, you can head to Hôtel-Dieu on the west bank of the Rhône River. This massive structure, listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, served as a hospital until 2010. The building’s facade stretches for 375 meters. Originally established around 1184 as a hospice operated by religious authorities, it began functioning as a hospital in 1454. The architectural form we see today emerged through renovations from the 17th to the 18th centuries. In 2015, it was transformed into a shopping center, including restaurants, and in 2019, the hotel section opened (Address: 1 Place de l’Hôpital).

Place Bellecour the largest square in Lyon and the third-largest in France, serves as the venue for all events and protests in the city. In winter, it features an ice-skating rink, and in summer, a Ferris wheel is set up. The square, defined as the center of the Presqu’île district, is surrounded by elegant buildings dating back to the 19th century. The equestrian statue of King Louis XIV, placed in the square in 1825, has become an emblem of the square. The pedestal of the statue features symbolic sculptures of the Saône and Rhône Rivers. In the corner of the square, there is a small statue of the Little Prince, a character from the famous novella by French aviator, writer, and poet Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.

Lyon’s central location allows you to explore either the right or left bank and take a walk along one of the riverbanks. Every morning, a market is set up on Quai de Celestin, offering various goods.

Heading a bit further south, you can visit the Basilica of Saint-Martin d’Ainay. Known as Lyon’s oldest church, this building was established in the 6th century on top of a Roman temple dating back to the 4th century. The final structure, in Romanesque style, was completed in the late 11th century through renovations led by Abbot Gaucerand. The building features four classical columns, a 12th-century mosaic floor in the choir, and gilded paintings by Lyon artist Hippolyte Flandrin from the 19th century (Address: 11 Rue Bourgelat).

Lyon is also renowned for its unique wall murals covering building facades (La Fresque Des Lyonnais). Known as Mur Peint, these visual displays have become a distinctive tradition in the city, with facades often adorned with details related to the city. One of the most famous is located at the corner of Rue de la Martinière and Quai de la Pêcherie, covering the entire front of a seven-story building and designed by Tony Garnier. This award-winning mural honors prominent figures in Lyon’s history, including the Little Prince, the Lumière Brothers, Antoine de St-Exupéry, Maurice Scève, Paul Bocuse, and more. Created by the art collective Citecreation in 1994-1995, the mural aims to make one of Lyon’s liveliest intersections even more vibrant. Many other murals throughout Lyon await travelers.

The bohemian gem of Lyon, Colline De La Croix-Rousse, stretches from Hôtel de Ville to Mur des Canuts. The furthest point, Mur des Canuts, is a 1200-square-meter mural depicting events in the area and was created in 1987. The nearest metro station is Hénon. This historic district, situated on a hillside, was a significant weaving center in the early 19th century and consists of two parts: Les Pentes and Le Plateau. These neighborhoods are connected by various interesting streets with stairs due to the sloping terrain. The Silk Workers’ House (Maison des Canuts), a small museum, is also worth visiting.

Accessible through the mentioned narrow passages, about 40 are open to the public and can be explored. Initially built to allow silk workers to move quickly without wetting their fabric bobbins, these narrow passages are part of Lyon’s rich history. There are two entrances to Le Cour des Voraces: one at 14 Montée Saint Sebastien and the other at 29 Imbert Colomés street. Passage Thiaffait is another interesting spot in this area.

Mur des Canuts is a 10-minute walk from the Rosa Mir Garden (Jardin Rosa Mir), a small replica of Park Güell. Located just outside Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse, this hidden garden was created by Jules Senis, a mason who fled the Spanish Civil War between 1957 and 1983. Adorned with colorful flowers, stones, and columns embellished with seashells, the garden reflects Senis’s promise to build a magnificent garden in the heart of Lyon if he survived what he believed would be an impossible situation. When he did survive, he dedicated the next 25 years to building the garden and named it after his mother, Rosa Mir Mercader, whom he left during the Spanish Civil War (Address: 87 Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse). The garden is only open on Saturdays after 2:00 PM

Other Museums:

• Musée Lumiere: This museum is dedicated to the Lumiere Brothers, who played a significant role in the birth of cinematography. Visitors can learn about Auguste and Louis Lumiere and witness the early days of cinema firsthand (Address: 25 Rue du Premier Film).
• Musée d’art Contemporain de Lyon: This museum mainly focuses on international projects and is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (Address: Cité Internationale, 81 Quai Charles de Gaulle). Although there is no metro access, bus lines C1, C4, or C5 passing right in front of the museum compensate for the lack of a metro. You can also visit Parc de la Tete d’Or right next to it, providing a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. The park, opened in 1857, features greenhouses, rose gardens, a zoo, a miniature railway, equestrian areas, a lake, and large trees offering ample shade. The botanical garden, with one of Europe’s largest collections, hosts over 1,600 plant species from around the world.
• Musée de la Confluence: This science and anthropology museum, located at the southern tip of the island, is closed on Mondays and is ideal for young travelers. You can reach the museum using tram line T1.
• Musée De La Civilization Gallo-Romaine: This archaeological museum showcases artifacts from the Roman period (Address: 17 Rue Cleberg).
• Musée Des Tissus Et Des Arts Décoratifs: Housed in an 18th-century Lyonnais mansion, this museum features rare clothing pieces from the 13th and 14th centuries, elegant wall tapestries from the 18th century, and various items from the 19th and 20th centuries. The collection includes a magnificent silk dress belonging to Empress Josephine and a pleated tunic dating back to the 5th dynasty of Egypt around 2500 BCE. It also displays examples of decorative arts (Address: 34 Rue de la Charité).
• Musée de l’imprimerie et de la Communication Graphique: Opened in 1964, this museum takes visitors on a journey through the history of printing, showcasing different printing techniques. Lyon’s significance as an important printing center since the 15th century is highlighted (Address: 13 Rue de la Poulaillerie).
• Centre D’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation: This museum recounts the resistance against the Nazi regime in Lyon during World War II, rightfully earning Lyon the title of the “Capital of Resistance.” It is located in the same building where the Gestapo chief operated during that period, adding an intriguing historical dimension (Address: 14 Avenue Berthelot).

CARDS AND TICKETS THAT CAN BE USED

Lyon City Card: The Lyon City Card offers options for 1, 2, 3, or 4 days. With this card, you gain free access to 23 museums and temporary exhibitions, as well as numerous free tourist activities, including a boat tour on the Saône River. It also provides unlimited access to public transportation (metro, tram, bus, and funicular), free guided tours, entry to puppet shows, and a 50% discount on Wi-Fi services. Sales points:

• ONLYLYON Tourism Company in Place Bellecour, Lyon’s 2nd district.
• Welcome area between terminals 1 and 2 at Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport
• Reception desk on the ground floor of Part-Dieu shopping center at Place de l’Eau

Lyon City Museums Card (La Carte Musées): This card, resembling a photo ID, provides access to many museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts, Contemporary Art Museum, Gadagne Museums, Resistance and Deportation History Center, Printing and Graphic Communication Museum, Henri Malartre Automobile Museum, and more.

FOOD and DRINK

• Bouchon: These are traditional Lyonnais bistros. They predominantly feature offal and rich, pork-based dishes. Snails and frog legs are also common. Eating well at affordable places is seen as an expression of the city’s gastronomic sophistication. In the past, workers passing through or staying in the area would prefer very fatty dishes from Lyon to sustain them and provide robust nourishment before hitting the road. Therefore, Lyon’s cuisine is built around this tradition.
• Paul Bocuse: Considered one of the legendary chefs of French cuisine, Paul Bocuse has three Michelin-starred restaurants in Lyon, along with more budget-friendly options. Although some might describe his dishes as somewhat traditional, his culinary empire continues to thrive under the guidance of his son.
• Pierre Orsi: Despite being well into his 80s, Pierre Orsi is a craftsman whose kitchen operates like a finely detailed masterpiece. Visiting Lyon and not experiencing his meticulous craftsmanship and humble abode accompanied by champagne would be a missed opportunity

• Bernachon: A world-renowned chocolatier, Bernachon is one of the best pastry shops in Lyon. (Address: 42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt, nearest stop Foch).
• Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: This market, named after Paul Bocuse, is a place where you can both shop and dine in its restaurants.
• Cafe des Federations: Popular among both tourists and locals, this cafe offers budget-friendly options to experience Lyon’s cuisine. (Address: 8 Rue Major Martin, nearest stop Hotel de Ville Louis Pradel).
• Brasserie l’Ouest: Another establishment associated with Paul Bocuse, this venue is not exclusively focused on Lyon cuisine, and the prices are more reasonable. (Address: 1 Quai du Commerce, nearest stop Gare de Vaise).