LEBANON

With its admirable architecture, unique cultural features, rich historical background, natural beauty, and delicious cuisine, Lebanon captivates travelers in no time. The capital, Beirut, is a favorite for everyone. Beirut, often referred to as the “Paris of the Middle East”, experienced its brightest years from the 1950s to the mid-1970s. Despite the challenges faced during those years, Beirut remains a city of contrasts today. Worn-out buildings, cobblestone streets, and potholed roads create a time capsule, while luxury residences, chain hotels, stylish restaurants, and a glittering marina exist just a few steps away. The city reflects a juxtaposition of wealth and the devastation of poverty, with people of various religions coexisting, even having their places of worship side by side.

The reasons behind all these experiences and contradictions are deeply rooted in the country’s history. The oldest evidence of civilization in Lebanon dates back 7,000 years. The Phoenicians were present in the region between 3200 BC and 539 BC. In 64 BC, the Roman Empire conquered the area, making it a center for Christianity. Despite the region passing under Muslim rule during the Four Caliphs’ era, Christians continued to preserve their religion and culture. However, the emergence of the Druze as a new religious group in the mountains of Lebanon led to centuries-long religious divisions. Presently, 32.4% of the population is Christian (mainly Maronite Catholic), 31.9% Sunni, 31% Shia, and 4.7% Druze. Maronites, who separated from the Catholic Church, follow simple and humble worship practices. Lebanon has 22 sects across the country, each with various movements.

In 1516, after Selim I’s (Selim the Grim or Selim the Resolute) campaign in Syria and Egypt, Lebanon fell under Ottoman rule, lasting for 400 years. During this period, the region maintained its cultural diversity and continued to be a trading center. Following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire in World War I, the French Mandate established the Republic of Lebanon. Independence was officially achieved in 1943, but the French withdrawal took until 1946. By the 1970s, Lebanon was a developed country where people of different religions lived together. However, the Lebanese Civil War, which erupted in 1975 among various political and sectarian groups, marked the beginning of a period of instability. The war, lasting 15 years, led to Lebanon’s occupation first by Syria and later by Israel. After Israel’s withdrawal, Muslim-Christian conflicts resumed. The war caused severe material damage and loss of life. When the war officially ended in 1991, Lebanon and Beirut had turned into ruins. Despite efforts to revive the economy and rebuild infrastructure, the country has been grappling with economic and political problems due to conflicts between Hezbollah and Israel, persisting for many years. The influx of migrants from Syria and Palestine has deepened poverty in Beirut, where serious infrastructure problems, an economic crisis, and a delicate political balance exist. For example, the city receives only 6 hours of electricity per day; 2 hours in the morning, 2 hours at noon, and 2 hours in the evening. Those who want to use electricity throughout the day have the only alternative of using generators.

Lebanon is actually in a very beautiful geography. This must be the reason why it has attracted so much attention throughout history. The country is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, with Syria and Israel as its land neighbors. Lebanese people refer to their neighbors as Palestine since they do not recognize Israel. The main features of the terrain are determined by the Lebanon Mountain Range (Mount Lebanon), which is quite rugged. The famous Bekaa Valley is located between the Lebanon Mountains and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains (Mount Hermon) further east. While the coastal areas experience a Mediterranean climate, the Lebanon Mountains receive plenty of rain and snow. In the Bekaa Valley, there is a continental to desert climate. Considering the climate conditions, spring and autumn are the most suitable times for a trip, as winters can be cold, and summers can be hot.

The main component of the vegetation is the Lebanon Cedar (Cedrus Libani), which is abundant in the mountains. This cedar tree is also featured on the Lebanese flag. Let me also remind you of two important rivers: the Litani River, which flows southward from the Baalbek threshold in the Bekaa Valley and drains into the sea within the borders of Lebanon, and the Orontes River, which flows northward and reaches the Mediterranean in Turkey after passing through Syrian territories.

Arabic is the official and national language of Lebanon. However, the people also speak French and English. The population is approximately 7 million, with the capital Beirut being the largest city, followed by Tripoli, Sidon (Saida), and Tyre.

No visa is required to visit Lebanon for Turkish people. Only your passport should not have an Israel stamp.

Public transportation in Beirut is very limited, and the best alternative for urban transportation is to use Uber. There is Wi-Fi at Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport, but it is only valid for 30 minutes, so it is recommended to connect shortly before calling Uber. Taxis are both expensive and, without a meter, can increase prices, especially when they realize you are a tourist.

Security seems to be the most important concern. Especially in places like Beirut, Lebanon is quite safe for a tourist. Baalbek and Anjar are very close to the Syrian border and under the control of ISIS, but there is no obstacle to visiting them as a tourist.

The currency of Lebanon is the Lebanese Pound (LBP), but USD is accepted everywhere. One Turkish lira is 110.93 LBP. One dollar is worth 1,511.91 LBP. When paying a bill, they write the amount in these two currencies separately. If you bring USD with you when you go to Beirut, you don’t even need to exchange it. It is recommended not to use the airport for currency exchange because a lower rate is applied; it is better to prefer the city instead. Let me also mention that Lebanon is very inexpensive for us in terms of eating, drinking, and accommodation.

Both Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines fly to the capital Beirut. When choosing a hotel for Beirut, you can prefer the old city district ‘Hamra’ or the modern center. We went on Thursday night and returned on Sunday night. Here is our 3-day program filled with experiences:

DAY 1-JEITA GROTTO, HARISSA, BYBLOS

On our first day in Beirut, as the weather was rainy, we decided to implement our second-day itinerary as it was exploring the surroundings by car. Our first stop of the day was Jeita Grotto, a system of two interconnected limestone caves with a total length of approximately 9 kilometers. Jeita means roaring water, and grotto refers to a cave. Jeita Grotto was a candidate for the New Seven Wonders of the World but did not make it to the final seven. The caves are in the Nahr al-Kalb Valley, 18 kilometers north of Beirut. The lower cave was discovered in 1836 by Reverend William Thomson, while the upper cave was explored by Lebanese speleologists in 1958.

To visit the upper cave, visitors take a bus resembling a specific train and then explore the cave on foot. Although the total length is 2,130 meters, only 750 meters are open to visitors. The highest point in the cave is 120 meters, and the world’s longest stalactite, measuring 8.20 meters, can be found here. After exiting the upper cave, visitors descend to the lower cave on foot. The entrance of the lower cave features a giant statue of the Guardian of Time, Kronos, created by Lebanese sculptor Tony Farah, standing at 6 meters tall and weighing 65 tons. Inside the lower cave, there is a lake, and visitors take a boat to explore the cave. Unfortunately, rising water levels due to rain prevented us from touring the lower cave.

Photography inside the caves is strictly prohibited. There are locked cabinets at the entrance of the upper cave where visitors are required to store their cameras and phones. This policy enhances the enchanting atmosphere of the caves, allowing visitors to fully experience the wonders without the distraction of taking photos. The formations of stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated to create a captivating ambiance, add to the allure of the caves.

Our second stop of the day was Harissa-Daraoun, a municipality consisting of two villages in the Keserwan Region, Keserwan-Jbeil Governorate, Lebanon. Harissa, situated on a hill, is home to the Our Lady of Lebanon Maronite Church, considered a pilgrimage site for Christians. Visitors must not miss the panoramic view of Jounieh Bay from this location. The statue of the Virgin Mary, located on Harissa Hill, was commissioned by wealthy Lebanese figure Suleiman Yakub in 1904. The statue, made of 13.5 tons of bronze, stands 8.5 meters tall with a 5-meter span. Below the statue, there is a small chapel. The basilica next to the Our Lady of Lebanon Church was designed by renowned Lebanese architect Pierre El Khoury in 1960. Inspired by Lebanon’s cedar trees, the grand basilica’s spacious amphitheater is organically shaped with layered concrete ceilings, creating a focus on the Virgin Mary statue through its central glass.

The last destination of the first day was the city of Byblos (Jubayl or Jebeil, meaning the prophet’s house in Arabic), one of the world’s oldest settlements, dating back to around 8800 BC. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded by the Phoenicians, Byblos, with its narrow streets, colorful markets, friendly people, and tranquility, captivates visitors. The Phoenicians referred to themselves as Kenani, while the Greeks called them Phoenicians. The Greeks also gave the city the name Byblos, meaning papyrus in Greek. Byblos was once a prominent port city dominating the trade of cedar trees used in the construction of the Egyptian Pyramids. Byblos is known as the birthplace of the first linear alphabet and is also associated with the Bible, possibly named Byblos/Bible because the Bible was read in the local church.

In the Byblos archaeological site, there is the Crusader Castle from the Knights Templar, the romanesque St. Jean Maronite Church, and a Roman-era theater. Additionally, there is a typical Eastern Bazaar and an Ottoman-era Mosque further on.

Byblos is approximately an hour’s drive from Beirut. If you prefer public transportation from Beirut to Byblos, you can take buses regularly departing from Dawra Bus Terminal in Beirut.

DAY 2-BEIRUT

Our city tour in Beirut begins with the significant symbol, Martyrs Square. The Martyrs Monument in the square reflects abundant bullet traces, portraying the scars of the internal conflict. In order not to forget the events and the bitter face of the war, Lebanese muralists intentionally refrain from repairing these bullet traces. It’s nearly impossible not to be moved when witnessing these bullet traces. However, some Lebanese muralists believe that to erase the marks of the civil war and promote new beginnings, more vibrant colors should be used. In the sculpture’s pedestal and surrounding structures, they depict a peacefully sleeping baby in the womb, colorful wings, hands united to symbolize brotherhood, and smiling faces. In Lebanon, if there is a general preference for holding demonstrations, Martyrs Square is the chosen location. The Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, located at the corner of the square, began construction in 2005 and was completed in 2008. With its four minarets, it became the tallest religious structure, standing at 72 meters. However, to maintain delicate sectarian balances, the cross on the top of St. George Maronite Cathedral, right next to it, was raised by 1 meter, making it 73 meters. Inspired by Ottoman architecture, the interior of the mosque is adorned with İznik tiles and splendid chandeliers imported from Istanbul.

The memorial tomb of Prime Minister Rafik Hariri and his guards, who were killed in a bomb attack using 1000 kg of TNT on February 14, 2005, is located right next to the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque. Other religious structures in this area include St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Emir Mansur Assaf Mosque, St. Elias Catholic Cathedral, and Al Nur Maronite Temple. Next to these religious structures, there are the walls and columns of a Roman-era bathhouse. The Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1968-1969 and began to be unearthed in the 1990s. The bathhouse has a total of 4 main bathing complexes, each with varying temperatures. Known as the Grand Serail, the building, constructed in 1851, served as a barracks during the Ottoman era and is now recognized as the residence of the Prime Minister, situated on Serail Hill, featuring one of the three Ottoman monuments of significant importance in Lebanese history.

The most beautiful square in the city, Nejmeh Square (Star Square), was designed in 1929 after being captured by the French. In the center of the square stands the Rolex Clock Tower. The clock tower, commissioned by Sultan Abdulhamid II, was restored and its clock renewed in the 1930s by the Lebanese Mexican billionaire Michel Abed. Following the civil war, the square, which became the center of protests against the economic and political situation in 2019, was closed by security forces. Entry is controlled, with permission granted to those residing in the surrounding area from a single point. Lebanese muralists, protesting the closure of the square’s exits, expressed themselves on top of concrete blocks.

Zaitunay Bay, the marina district, is Beirut’s most luxurious area. In Zaitunay Bay, numerous upscale restaurants are lined up amidst luxurious yachts and skyscrapers. Right next to the marina is the St. Georges Hotel, which was the center of all splendors during Beirut’s golden age. Prime Minister Rafik Hariri was assassinated here, and a monument symbolizing the explosion was erected at the site of his assassination. The United States and Israel blamed Syria for the explosion, but Syria denied the accusation. Hariri reportedly had three separate convoys, and after the explosion, bombs were found in five different locations. The St. Georges Hotel, located right next to the explosion, stands today as an abandoned ghost building.

The Corniche, stretching along the coast, is a beautiful 18-kilometer walking route where you can enjoy the magnificent view of Beirut. Walking along this path, you reach the Pigeon Rocks. Located 70 meters above the sea, these rocks seem to have been there since the beginning of time, and watching the sunset behind them is a breathtaking experience. In 2018, a competition of the World Cliff Diving Series took place at these rocks. According to the legend, the Pigeon Rocks are believed to be the remnants of a sea monster killed by the Greek hero Perseus to rescue Andromeda. According to Lebanese folklore, a lovelorn couple, forbidden to marry due to their different religions, leaped together from here into the Mediterranean, ending their lives. As pigeons are known for their loyalty to their mates, these rocks are called Pigeon Rocks. While there is a pathway leading down to see these rocks, the view from above is more magnificent. Taking a boat tour is another alternative to witness these spectacular formations.

One of the most important places to visit in Beirut is the Beirut National Museum. Here, over 100,000 artifacts from the Bronze Age, Phoenician, Hellenistic (the era of Alexander the Great and Seleucids), Egyptian, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods are exhibited. The museum displays its collection with great care, and the artifacts are visually enhanced with beautiful lighting. While the National Museum has been gradually recovering from the damage caused by the war that erupted in 1975, it remains noteworthy for the traces it holds related to Lebanese history. The Beirut National Museum is a three-story structure. The museum building, completed in 1937, began exhibiting artifacts from excavations in Beirut, Byblos, Sidon, and Tyre starting from 1942. On the ground floor of the museum, mosaics, monumental marble works, and sarcophagi are displayed. The most significant piece on this floor is the sarcophagus belonging to King Ahiram of Byblos, adorned with symbols of the Phoenician alphabet.

The cedar tree at the entrance of the museum dates back to the 8th century BCE. On the ground floor, priceless mosaics are also exhibited. In the Mosaic of the Seven Wise Men, Socrates is depicted at the top, and the woman in the middle represents wisdom. On the top floor, artifacts from prehistoric, Bronze Age, Arab, and Ottoman periods are on display. A fabric showcasing the color purple, obtained from the sea snail known as the royal color of kings during the Byzantine period, is exhibited.

The most intriguing part of the museum is the lower floor. This floor exhibits artifacts related to funerals and burials. Here, there are 31 terracotta sarcophagi with human faces, like those found in Egypt, discovered in Sidon. The sarcophagi shaped like human date back to the 3rd century BCE. To see the faces of the sarcophagi, they placed a row of mirrors on top of them. The sarcophagi with arms were for rulers or leaders, while those without arms belonged to ordinary people. In the final section of this floor, there are three mummies found in a cave in the Qadisha Valley, along with worker clothing and various objects. Discoveries related to the first linear alphabet are also exhibited on this floor.

Another important museum close to the National Museum is the Mineral Museum. Salim Eddé, a chemical engineer and co-founder of the Murex4 computer company, decided to share his 17-year collection of minerals with the public in 2004. Opened in 2013, the Mineral Museum is one of the most fascinating places not only in Beirut but in the world. The museum displays over 2,000 minerals representing 450 different types from 70 countries, and the MIM mineral collection is considered one of the most important private mineral collections globally. Additionally, the museum’s audiovisual section features videos on how some stones are extracted.

Hamra, in contrast to the overly modernized face of Beirut, is a district that seems to live in the 80s. It is a lively and vibrant place filled with small shops, local eateries, and stalls selling various items. To draw a comparison, Hamra Square is akin to Istanbul’s Cihangir, just as the nearby Mar Mikhael and Gemmayze regions are. These areas are known for their endless energy throughout the day, diverse dining options to suit every taste, and lively nightlife.

The Sursock Museum operates in one of the grand residences of the Sursock family, serving as a modern art museum. While you’re in the area, indulge in a special ice cream experience at Hanna Mitri, where you can try almond and apricot flavors. The reason behind the news of the World’s best ice cream is Hanna Mitri’s continuous improvement of the taste over more than 60 years, consistently offering customers fresh and delicious ice cream. Opened in 1949, the tiny shop with white walls still bears traces of the war, and Hanna Mitri remains the only place in the city making ice cream with real milk. The intense texture and unique flavor of their ice cream can be attributed to this family-owned business.

If the timing is right, one of the must-see places in Beirut is the Souk El Tayeb farmers’ market held on Saturdays. Established in 2004 as a farmers’ market, Souk El Tayeb has evolved into a forum where food, traditions, and hospitality are shared over time. It facilitates the meeting of small producers with consumers, with around 100 small producers presenting fresh, local, and seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as dairy products from various regions of Lebanon at their stalls every week. The market also features handmade products like pottery, soap, and entertainment areas for children. Tawlet, serving as Souk el Tayeb’s farmers’ kitchen, is a discovery paradise where flavors rooted in various regions of Lebanon come together. Going beyond being just a union aimed at supporting small-scale producers like farmers and women, Tawlet is one of the ideal places where you can taste local flavors every day of the week.

In most places in Beirut, credit cards are widely accepted. This includes taxi transportation through the Uber application, which allows payment with a credit card. However, it’s essential to note that some restaurants and hotels may not accept credit cards, so it’s advisable to check in advance before visiting.

Before heading to Beirut, it’s crucial to have information about Hezbollah. Hezbollah, a Shiite political party founded on the basis of eliminating Israel, has its centers and armed militants in certain regions of Lebanon. The area near the Israel border, where unauthorized entry is prohibited, is entirely under Hezbollah control. While there isn’t a strict “You can’t enter” policy, they enforce strict security measures because suicide attacks against Hezbollah are often organized in Shiite neighborhoods. As these areas don’t typically offer tourist attractions, there’s a possibility of being treated with suspicion if found there. Therefore, it’s recommended to avoid taking photos and even carrying a camera, as you might not be aware that you are in a Shiite neighborhood. Recognizing this is possible due to the presence of black, yellow, green flags, and posters of Nasrallah.

DAY 3- ANJAR, BAALBEK VE KSARA/ BEYT EL-DIN PALACE and SIDON

The ancient city of Baalbek, established by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, is located 67 kilometers northeast of Beirut. Situated in the Beqaa Valley, the city is only 15 kilometers away from the Syrian border. The Phoenicians named the city Baalbek in honor of their most powerful god, Baal. Later, the Greeks changed its name to Heliopolis, meaning the Sun City. Finally, it reverted to the name Baalbek. Baalbek, with numerous temples of various sizes, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among these temples, the most well-known are the Temples of Bacchus, Jupiter, and Venus. Bacchus, with eighty-four columns and a height of 22 meters, has survived in large part to the present day. The Temple of Jupiter, consisting of 94 columns, has only six columns that have reached us. The Temple of Venus, located at the city’s entrance, has very few standing remains. The stones used in the construction of these temples, weighing hundreds of tons, were brought from Egypt. Baalbek was a crucial religious center in its time and hosted various cultures, including Phoenician and Roman. Despite enduring the Lebanese Civil War for thirty years and the historical events in the region, this ancient city has remarkably remained intact and is a must-visit destination.

If there is time left in the Baalbek program, it is recommended to visit Ksara and Anjar. Anjar is a city that represents the architectural style of the Umayyad period, and it is the only example preserved to this day. Located away from the sea, Anjar is the only non-coastal commercial center. The rectangular-shaped city is situated at the intersection of trade routes between the capital of Syria, Damascus, and the southern regions, right in the middle of Lebanon’s most fertile lands. Ksara is the largest and oldest region for vine cultivation in Lebanon. Here, you can visit wine-producing caves with a guide and participate in wine tastings.

Unfortunately, due to the snowy weather, we couldn’t cross the Lebanon Mountains to reach Baalbek. Instead, we visited the Beit ed-Dine Palace, known as the “El Hamra of Lebanon”. The beauty of Beit ed-Dine Palace, renowned for its resemblance to the Alhambra in Granada and considered the pinnacle of Umayyad art, is truly enchanting.

Heading south to the Chouf Region in the Mount Lebanon Range on our way to the palace, we passed through Druze villages. Druze people are divided into akeels (wise) and jahils (ignorant). Akeels are recognizable by their attire, with men wearing baggy trousers and a white cap, while women wear a white headscarf.

The Beit ed-Dine Palace, situated on the edge of a valley, is located very close to Deir el-Qamar, which served as the administrative center during the Ottoman era. Its name, Beyt el-Din, translates to “House of Religion”. Perched on top of a terraced hill surrounded by gardens and fruit trees, the palace was initiated by Emir Bashir Shihab II in 1788 during the period when Lebanon was part of the Ottoman Empire. The construction of the palace took 30 years. With its unique beauty and priceless decoration, Beyt ed-Dine is considered one of Lebanon’s most important cultural treasures.

The outer courtyard (Dar Al Baraniyyeh) is surrounded by buildings on three sides, and the fourth side opens up to views of the surrounding valleys and hills.

The central courtyard you pass through (Dar Al Wousta) is surrounded by administrative buildings, the harem, reception areas, guesthouses, and service units. While the outer courtyard and buildings have an impressive yet simple appearance, this second courtyard introduces the breathtaking stone carving, marble work, and lush greenery deserving of the name “Lebanon’s Alhambra”. Each room seems more beautiful than the previous one. Walls and ceilings are adorned with Arabic calligraphy, intricately carved and painted wood. Marble patterns complement the exquisite stone carving, showcasing the rich imagination that went into its creation. Graceful fountains and fountains are expertly placed, reminiscent of a mansion with ornate wooden balconies, stained glass-adorned bay windows, and mosaic-covered outdoor spaces. The rooms are decorated with the most beautiful oriental furniture.

The greatest care and craftsmanship are displayed in the emir’s room and the harem section.

The third courtyard passed through from the central courtyard (Dar El Harim) is also home to one of the most beautiful examples of baths in the Arab world.

The vaulted stables located below Dar El Wousta and Dar El Harim have been transformed into a museum where Roman and Byzantine mosaics are exhibited today. Next to the mosaic museum, there is a religious retreat for the Druze. This large room, which existed long before the palace was built, has been restored and opened to visitors.

In the palace’s garden, it is possible to see both the cedar tree, a symbol of Lebanon, and examples of mosaics.

We concluded our day in the city of Sidon. This is where the Alexander Sarcophagus, discovered by Osman Hamdi Bey and displayed at the Istanbul Archaeology Museum, is located. There is a castle at the entrance of Sidon. The city has a medieval appearance with houses connected by bridges known as “abbara” or “kabaltı.” Streets pass under these bridges, providing shade and coolness during hot weather. Due to the influence of Saudi Arabia, Sidon is a somewhat more conservative region of Lebanon. The area has been producing soap since ancient times, and the region is known for producing soaps with different scents and colors. The Soap Museum, especially, is a must-visit.

FOOD and DRINK

In Lebanon, there are several flavors that you must try, including various types of hummus, fattoush salad, tabbouleh, falafel, kebbeh, banuşi zahter (zaatar-flavored round bread), and a dessert similar to künefe, the Osmalliye sweet with ice cream or cream. Additionally, you can taste Lebanese wine, the local beer Almaza produced since 1933, and Arak, an anise-flavored alcoholic beverage that is somewhat similar to raki, often associated with Lebanon due to its traditional production method. Here are my recommendations:

Le Chef (Gemmayze district): This is a traditional restaurant where you can try dishes like kibbeh, fatteh, sesame sauce-coated fried cauliflower, meat and pistachio hummus casserole, and Lebanese arak. Le Chef is an inexpensive gem among the expensive places in Gemmayze, shining with a history of 200 years.

T-Marbouta (Hamra district): A crowded and popular venue. It’s advisable to go early for a meal or be prepared to wait. All the mezes are delicious.

Abu Naim (Hamra district): A calm family-run establishment. Their meaty hummus is exquisite. Be sure to try their spicy potatoes. The roasted eggplant salad, raheb, is also delicious. They offer different kebabs that might suit your taste.

Barbar: If you’re looking for a place in the style of a tradesman’s restaurant, you can try the ‘Barbar’ tradesman’s restaurant chain. They are famous for their falafel and manakeesh, which are zaatar and thyme-containing flatbreads.

Leila (Zaitunay Bay): A nice cafe that can be preferred for lunch.

Abdel Wahab: A spacious kebab restaurant located in the modern part of the city.

Em Sherif Restaurant: A very luxurious restaurant with slightly higher prices. It’s recommended to make a reservation before going. Also located in the modern part of the city.

Restaurant Malena (Byblos): Located in Byblos, this restaurant offers a dining option in a different setting.

Musichall, Ambar, Mandalun entertainment venues.